Silver C, Green.


 
Samuel said:
Larry,
Do you have a pic?
Click to expand...
This is a photo of right when I'd brought it home. It was taken with my previous phone (Samsung S22 Ultra) which also tends to want to "flatten" images in it's default mode. I know that image is flattened because if you look at the green trash bin behind it............see how "dull" it looks? In reality those bins are much deeper green than it appears in this. Here is an untouched photo (an oh BTW the grill as well is totally "untouched" unwashed.
1748353684567.jpeg

Here is one where I allowed the color to be "punched up" just a hair closer to reality, though maybe it's just a hair too bright, but IMO it looks quite a bit closer

1748354046637.jpeg
 
@Bruce ,regarding the cross member, if I use the main part of the frame off of another grill, aren't those usually 1 1/4" square. If I choose that, what are the inserts recommended?
 
I thought that sideburner was off a Summit at first. I have not seen that style except on the platinum genny's. Which would make sense if that was a Silver C the same two years as the Platinum's were made? I feel like you would be able to make a regular igniter work with just a little wire splicing versus having a dual pole igniter.
 
Samuel said:
@Bruce ,regarding the cross member, if I use the main part of the frame off of another grill, aren't those usually 1 1/4" square. If I choose that, what are the inserts recommended?
Click to expand...
Yes, just get 1.25" connectors.

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Bruce I was thinking of using 1.25" tubing cut from some Silver A frames I have for scrap.
I do not have any 1" scrap, or do you simply go to Home Depot and buy 1" tubing. My concern in buying from HD was the thickness might not
be the same.
I have seen your recommendation for 1" and I have that saved in my wish list. I just do not have 1.25".
 
Recheck my post. I edited it. You can buy 1.25" tubing connectors. And yes, you can used frame pieces off scrap grills for that cross member. It is what I do.

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Bad news...
The PO twisted off the mounting cook box nut and stripped the head of the bolt since it is seized.
I guess I am going to take Steve's advice buy a propane torch or better yet borrow my brother's.
 
If those washers don't come off when you take the burner tubes out and clean out the cook box, you might not have to do anything. Just take it one step at a time and see what happens.
 
Burners are out and washers are out. I am left with 2 rusted stubs. Should I cut flush with Dremel tool? I do not have any reverse thread drill bits.
 
Samuel said:
Burners are out and washers are out. I am left with 2 rusted stubs. Should I cut flush with Dremel tool? I do not have any reverse thread drill bits.
Click to expand...
Ok, now you have a problem. Yes, I would cut the bolts flush. You're going to have to drill out the rest of the bolts I imagine, easier said than done.
 
Samuel said:
Does it have to be a reverse drill bit?
Click to expand...


No, but it can certainly help. Its more of a patience task. I would see if you can get a vice grip on it before grinding it flat to drill. A vice grip and some heat would be my first attempt.

When drilling it out it is all about getting the first hole you drill as centered as possible. Also, highly recommend a very sharp, or brand new drill bit. Start as small as possible. Use firm pressure and spin the bit slow. A little bit of lubrication also helps.
 
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