Servo/Fan Wiring to Jack


 
J

JakeBrown

TVWBB Member
I've read the Blower and Servo Wiring wiki, but I need some visual help.

What I need to do:

1) Connect wires from fan to RJ45 jack.
2) Connect wires from servo to RJ45 jack.

Can someone tell me what wires from the fan/servo go to which jack number?
bgNXUed.jpg


Here's what I have:
RJ45 output from the Heatermeter board that runs along ethernet cable to
RJ45 input to Offset Rotary Valve: serveo (MG90S) and fan (603-1370-ND).

I presume this is all I need to do to complete the wiring.

Thanks in advance,
Jake
 
If you have a multimeter its best to make sure.

#4 Ground(black-fan)(brown-servo)
#6 12v(Red wire fan)
#5 5v
#3 Servo(middle wire on servo)
 
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If I'm reading the wiki directions correctly, I just need to match the wire colors to the numbers on the servo jack.

Using the upper left corner of this chart:
ByE3oXj.png
 
JakeBrown said:
If I'm reading the wiki directions correctly, I just need to match the wire colors to the numbers on the servo jack.

Using the upper left corner of this chart:
ByE3oXj.png
Click to expand...

Hello. A complete newbie question here. I am having the same problem figuring the wiring for the servo and fan. The fan wires are bare wires. Do I just push it down horizontally on the ethernet box? The servo has a pin connector on mine. Do I need to cut it off and put the bare wires on the ethernet box as well? I wish there was a visual or video guide. Thanks.
 
here is a link to a jack wiring that Will Begg has done

https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?63198-The-Adapt-a-Damper-Open-Source-Project/page23

you have picked a very good damper. I use the Tom Design you chosen and Will Begg`s Adapt-a-damper. I have built and tried the other tom Cole design and the micro damper. I am using my dampers on a Primo jr ceramic grill. Make when you set things up to reverse the servo action in the setup screen. When you do that the functions for setting the open and close limits of the servo now are reversed.
Enjoy your new damper
 
Gary V said:
here is a link to a jack wiring that Will Begg has done

https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?63198-The-Adapt-a-Damper-Open-Source-Project/page23

you have picked a very good damper. I use the Tom Design you chosen and Will Begg`s Adapt-a-damper. I have built and tried the other tom Cole design and the micro damper. I am using my dampers on a Primo jr ceramic grill. Make when you set things up to reverse the servo action in the setup screen. When you do that the functions for setting the open and close limits of the servo now are reversed.
Enjoy your new damper
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I am still trying to get an idea for parts on how and what to connect to the the ethernet jack from the connectors on the servo and blower but I think I'm slowly getting an idea.

Could you explain the whole reverse servo action in the setup screen? Is that just a software setting? and what are the benefits? Thanks again for your help!
 
had bad case of flue past few days so my last post was pretty bad. Anyway From the description you put out, that is the Tom Cole design I use and when it gets used, I must go into the configuration screen and reverse the servo`s output direction. The setting is called "invert Output". Since this damper works differently than other servo`s I needed to check box so when damper was closed it was 0% out and when fully open it was 100% out. You will see in the link I provided, a capacitor was mounted into the RJ45 jack. This goes between the power lead and common lead of the servo. Since the servo cable run from the Heatmeter box to the damper can be long, there is enough loss of current to servo that requires a cap to act as a electron storage device to keep sufficient voltage and current available to servo at all times. This eliminates servo chattering and other odd things users observed. Value I believe most are using is 100uf/10vdc
Good Luck
 
Gary V said:
had bad case of flue past few days so my last post was pretty bad. Anyway From the description you put out, that is the Tom Cole design I use and when it gets used, I must go into the configuration screen and reverse the servo`s output direction. The setting is called "invert Output". Since this damper works differently than other servo`s I needed to check box so when damper was closed it was 0% out and when fully open it was 100% out. You will see in the link I provided, a capacitor was mounted into the RJ45 jack. This goes between the power lead and common lead of the servo. Since the servo cable run from the Heatmeter box to the damper can be long, there is enough loss of current to servo that requires a cap to act as a electron storage device to keep sufficient voltage and current available to servo at all times. This eliminates servo chattering and other odd things users observed. Value I believe most are using is 100uf/10vdc
Good Luck
Click to expand...

I'm just grateful for the help. Hope you feel better.

It looks like the capacitor then, should go to the 6 and 3 pins on the jack? This seems to correspond to the servo power and servo signal pins? WBegg's capacitor seems to be connected to the 3 and 4 pins? Unless the arrangement is different on his jack. My 6 and 3 pins are right next to each other. ???
 
PShin said:
I'm just grateful for the help. Hope you feel better.

It looks like the capacitor then, should go to the 6 and 3 pins on the jack? This seems to correspond to the servo power and servo signal pins? WBegg's capacitor seems to be connected to the 3 and 4 pins? Unless the arrangement is different on his jack. My 6 and 3 pins are right next to each other. ???
Click to expand...

The capacitor should go between the servo +5 wire and GND wire, not the signal wire.
 
Ok, finally hooked up everything. My fan is working but damper would not work. I isolated the issue to the servo signal wire on pin 6. When I touch the servo signal wire (yellow) to the pin 6, it will open close. Any ideas on how to fix the problem? The servo wires are pretty thin. I've used a punch down tool after stripping the plastic to punch it down. Thank you for any help!
 
I tin them because the punchdown jacks are made for solid core wire and the thin servo wires can easily not make good contact, especially if they haven't been stripped.
 
I am kinda overwhelmed here. I tinned the wires and connected everything. The fan will only turn on when I invert the fan. The damper will only turn on when I start up the heater meter or reboot the AVR in the web configuration. Attached is my setting. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Is it software or hardware issue? Thank you.


My setting:
P:7 I:.0063 D:9
Fan output Voltage on above 25% min 5% max 50% startp max 100% invert output (unchecked)
Servo pulse duration 1000 us -2000 us, fully open at 100% invert output (checked)

BTW my capacitor is 47UF 47mfd 10V 6 x 6mm Solid Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Update:

When I set the setpoint to a negative value like -50, the damper closes and the fan kicks in. But when I set the set temp to any positive value, it does not move at all. ???
 
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PShin said:
I am kinda overwhelmed here. I tinned the wires and connected everything. The fan will only turn on when I invert the fan. The damper will only turn on when I start up the heater meter or reboot the AVR in the web configuration. Attached is my setting. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Is it software or hardware issue? Thank you.


My setting:
P:7 I:.0063 D:9
Fan output Voltage on above 25% min 5% max 50% startp max 100% invert output (unchecked)
Servo pulse duration 1000 us -2000 us, fully open at 100% invert output (checked)

BTW my capacitor is 47UF 47mfd 10V 6 x 6mm Solid Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Update:

When I set the setpoint to a negative value like -50, the damper closes and the fan kicks in. But when I set the set temp to any positive value, it does not move at all. ???
Click to expand...


Another update:

The only way I can get the fan to run is inverted fan setting. Otherwise, if I put a negative set temp like negative 70, the fan kicks in and the damper closes.
 
PShin said:
When I set the setpoint to a negative value like -50, the damper closes and the fan kicks in. But when I set the set temp to any positive value, it does not move at all. ???
Click to expand...
Sounds like your hardware at lest on the output side is fine, since the damper operates and so does the fan. When you enter a negative setpoint, that's the same as entering a manual output percent, so -100 = 100% output.

I'd suggest setting your values to a simple configuration and going from there:
Fan output Voltage on above 0% min 0% max 100% startup max 100% invert output (unchecked)
Servo pulse duration 1000 us -2000 us, fully open at 100% invert output (unchecked)

With that, if you use manual mode, at 0% your damper should be closed and the fan off. At 100% damper open and fan on max. If the damper is closed when it should be open or vice versa then invert the servo pulse via the checkbox. The fan output should never be inverted for running a grill (inverting it makes the fan only run when the temperature is below the setpoint). Now you can tweak servo pulse duration so it is perfectly closed at 0% and completely open at 100%.

Once it is all working in manual, then enter a high setpoint (225F) and plug in a pit probe and the blower should go to 100% and the damper should open. You're done! You can then adjust the fan max and startup max if you're getting too much overshoot.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
Sounds like your hardware at lest on the output side is fine, since the damper operates and so does the fan. When you enter a negative setpoint, that's the same as entering a manual output percent, so -100 = 100% output.

I'd suggest setting your values to a simple configuration and going from there:
Fan output Voltage on above 0% min 0% max 100% startup max 100% invert output (unchecked)
Servo pulse duration 1000 us -2000 us, fully open at 100% invert output (unchecked)

With that, if you use manual mode, at 0% your damper should be closed and the fan off. At 100% damper open and fan on max. If the damper is closed when it should be open or vice versa then invert the servo pulse via the checkbox. The fan output should never be inverted for running a grill (inverting it makes the fan only run when the temperature is below the setpoint). Now you can tweak servo pulse duration so it is perfectly closed at 0% and completely open at 100%.

Once it is all working in manual, then enter a high setpoint (225F) and plug in a pit probe and the blower should go to 100% and the damper should open. You're done! You can then adjust the fan max and startup max if you're getting too much overshoot.
Click to expand...

Awesome! I tried as you suggested and the fans and dampers work! Now, I have attached a probe (thermistor type) and it is reading the room temp. But it says no pit probe on the screen and when i set the temp to 225, nothing happens. No fan movement. Do I need two probes inserted for this to work? Thank you.
 
It won't turn on if it can't read a temperature (No Pit Probe) so that's what we gotta resolve. You said you inserted a probe and it showed a temperature, but if you're saying it also says "No pit probe", it sounds like you've got a thermocouple HeaterMeter and you inserted a thermistor probe into one of the food jacks, right? The thermocouple port is the control port so you either have to insert a thermocouple probe, or set the pit probe type to "Disabled" to have it use the next port down the line as the control port.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
It won't turn on if it can't read a temperature (No Pit Probe) so that's what we gotta resolve. You said you inserted a probe and it showed a temperature, but if you're saying it also says "No pit probe", it sounds like you've got a thermocouple HeaterMeter and you inserted a thermistor probe into one of the food jacks, right? The thermocouple port is the control port so you either have to insert a thermocouple probe, or set the pit probe type to "Disabled" to have it use the next port down the line as the control port.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bryan. I am fully up and running! Appreciate the help!
 
I thought that would be my last post :)
I finally hooked it up to my KJ CLASSIC 2 with thermocouple. Set it to 225 but soon it overshot to 240. The fans stopped at that point but the damper was still open 100% and temp still climbing. Current settings:

P:7
I: .0063
D:9

on above 25%, min 5%, max 50%, startup max 100%

I did see the lid open timer go off at one point but I think it went back to normal.

Any suggestions why the damper was fully open when it had shot past the 225 set point? When I mess with the setting on ambient temp (not connected to grill) , the damper seems to open and close as it should.
 
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