S J. Gold Mini WSM Smoker


 
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Well, Rhonda and I just finished our first Smokey Joe conversion. As a compromise to her, I had to agree to using "her" color......purple.

We painted all of the legs, dampers, handles, and hardware an anodozed purple with a clearcoat finish. They look remarkable, and are hard as nails after heat curing.

We painted the Bottom, middle, and lid, all with VHT engine enamel and clearcoat. Again, after heat curing, they are shiny as can be, and hard as nails. We used Rustoleum self-etching primer on the tomale pot, and after a 400 grit light sanding to the original finish, we used VHT engine enamel primer, 2 coats of color, and a clearcoat finish. All parts were "baked" in the oven for several hours at 200 degrees to harden them.

I only have the one picture now, but will get more and post them. I am only going to use one cooking grate, and am using a second resting on the ridge to hold the 8 quart stainless steel water pan. I will procure a clay saucer and foil both before cooking. I took this phot with my tablet camera inside, so the quality is not that great. I will get more tomorrow ourtside in the sun, providing it cooperates.

We would like to thank all of those who have so graciously posted their pics and described the mods, so that others such as myself may take on these little projects without the fears of failure.

Here is the photo, and I will post more as I get them:
MiniSmoker.jpg



The thermometer just below the cooking grate:
LegsDampers.jpg



The lid and exhaust damper:
lid.jpg


My probe grommet:
ProbeGrommet.jpg


Close up of the legs & dampers:
LegsDampers-1.jpg



Once more, sorry about the quality of the pics, but you can get the general idea.
 
The vent seems to be a different color, did you paint with two different colors? What did you do to prep the smokey joe for painting? I'll hang up and listen to my answer.

Brian
 
Originally posted by Brian O'Neal:
The vent seems to be a different color, did you paint with two different colors? What did you do to prep the smokey joe for painting? I'll hang up and listen to my answer.

Brian
Click to expand...

Brian, the vent, dampers, legs, and the "handle" were all prepped by using a wax remover/degreaser, then lightly scuffed with a fine scotch pad, wiped clean with mineral spirits, and allowed to dry.......about 15 mintues. They were then sprayed with 3 light coats of Duplicilor purple anodized coating at 10 minute intervals. After a 30 minute flash off period, they were then sprayed with 2 coats of VHT clear gloss engine enamel at 10 minute intervals. The parts were then oven baked at 200 degrees for 2 hours to dry and heat cure.

As for the Smokey Joe itself, both the top and bottom were lightly scuffed with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to give the primer something to adhere to. They were also prepped with wax remover/ degreaser, and wiped clean with mineral spirits. They were then primed with 2 coats of VHT engine enamel at 10 minute intervals, followed by a 30 minute flash off period. Then 2 coats of VHT Lavendar engine enamel were applied at 10 minute intervals, followed by a 30 minute flash off period. Then 2 coats of VHT clear gloss engine enamel at 10 minute intervals, and off to the 200 degree oven for 2 hours. The heat treating does 2 things, it drives all of the solvents out, and it makes the paint and coatings "flow out" to a slick and smooth finish.

As you can see from the pics, the finish is equal to, if not better than, the quality of the original factory finish. My younger brother is the mastermind of this process, as he is a painter in an auto-body shop. He also paints aluminum custom storm shutters for a local company. He has assured me that these products rated at 550 to 600 degree heat range will stand up to anything that I can throw at it. He also told me that after prepping the pieces, that he would recommend using a standard automotive style base coat/ clear coat process combined with high heat hardeners, and that would work equally as well. I was not brave enough to try that just yet. I do have an extra 22.5 inch lid from a recent Performer display model score that I will use to test that theory though.

I showed him your posts on the Centari enamel suggestion, and he concurred that such a process was acceptable, although, he did suggest a complete repaint over just touching up for a more permanent solution to dings and scratches. He has access to a custom paint mixing system, and can match any color.

For my next paint project, I am going to refinish a 22.5 inch salvage grill that I scored last month. I got a pre-serial number redhead, and a burgandy bottom with a black replacent lid model, both for $15.00 at a garage sale. I think that I am going to go the Cajun Bandit smoker modification route on the mix/match one, and add a rotisserie ring. Planning on using VHT's line of 900 degree caliper paint and associated primers and clear coats for that one.

BTW, I only arrived at the conclusion about the VHT 550 degree paint for the smokers after checking the outside temperatures of the 22.5 WSM on my last 2 cooks.......one a 250 degree cooking of a beef chuck roast, and a 300 degree cooking of my Apple-Brined Thanksgiving turkey. The highest readings that I ever saw was something in the 260 degree range, and that was right around the door of the smoker. Nothing else over 230, including the bottom where the fire is. I always use a coal ring though, and have fashioned a 12 inch round, 6 inch high, ring for shorter cooks. This allows me to take full advantage of the "minion method" without any fear of losing temps due to a shallow coal bed. What that means is this, my fire is not that close to the side of the smoker. That issue is why I am upping the ante of the 22.5 kettle to 900 degree rated paint. I also have considered some of the 1300-1400 degree stove paints that are available, but I do not like the colors available.

One other thing, using a flat color coat does not mean that you wiull get a flat finish......your gloss clear coat fixes that issue right up.

I am going to run a small load of charcoal through the mini today, weather permitting, and post the results, inside and out. I don't believe that I will get any "paint odor" from this run because I heat treated the paint already, and the "odor" was gone long before I removed the parts from the heat. I do want to burn off all impurities though, and season the mini for my first cook. One more thing, I replaced all of the original hardware with new stainless steel, and used the anodized process on them as well. I used a small piece of cardboard as a holder for the parts as they were sprayed and finished. They were only exposed to partial heat curing, but the process worked just fine, as the finish is tough as nails on them as well.
 
Originally posted by M Plaines:
Love the color and finish. How did you do the anodozed finish?
Click to expand...

It is a Duplicolor product that is simple and easy to use. After the final top coat, I used VHT engine enamel gloss clear coat to "seal" the finish, then heat treated at 200 degrees for 2 hours. Cannot scrape it off....I tried.
 
It is interesting. I elected to just touch up the spots, simply because the porcelain finish from Weber is ultimately much much more durable than any paint finish. I am just trying to keep the original finish as much as possible, and just repair the problems. NO doubt it will look much nicer totally repainted. It will be interesting to see how this holds up over time. High heat has a way of softening paint. The paint on my car feels very hard and would be difficult to scratch off, however in high heat it will blister and fall off. That's why I would put this paint to a dozen or so high heat tests to see if it keeps holding up. It would be sweet if it did.

How are you going to bake your 22.5 kettle? It seems pretty big for a normal oven. Are you doing this in your house or does your brother have some sort of industrial oven. When I painted my smoker I just assembled the smoker and put some lit charcoal inside and it baked the paint on. Maybe you will have to do the same with your kettle, if it doesn't fit in your oven.

Please put your paint through some serious tests so we can see how it holds up.


Brian
 
Great info. I'd like to see when you do another one. The full size kettle and rotisserie ring would be nice to see how it turns out. I'd love to paint my rotisserie ring red!
 
Originally posted by Brian O'Neal:
It is interesting. I elected to just touch up the spots, simply because the porcelain finish from Weber is ultimately much much more durable than any paint finish. I am just trying to keep the original finish as much as possible, and just repair the problems. NO doubt it will look much nicer totally repainted. It will be interesting to see how this holds up over time. High heat has a way of softening paint. The paint on my car feels very hard and would be difficult to scratch off, however in high heat it will blister and fall off. That's why I would put this paint to a dozen or so high heat tests to see if it keeps holding up. It would be sweet if it did.

How are you going to bake your 22.5 kettle? It seems pretty big for a normal oven. Are you doing this in your house or does your brother have some sort of industrial oven. When I painted my smoker I just assembled the smoker and put some lit charcoal inside and it baked the paint on. Maybe you will have to do the same with your kettle, if it doesn't fit in your oven.

Please put your paint through some serious tests so we can see how it holds up.


Brian
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Brian, I did not replace the original Weber coating, just scuffed it lightly. I too, am convinced that the factory coating will act as "insulation".

As for "softening" the paint, well, I don't see how that will be possible since it has already been heat tempered at 200 degrees. Especially since the paint is temperature rated nearly double that of any temps that I will subject it to. Sure, I guess that it is possible, but did your touch-ups soften? I wasn't able to fire the mini today, as we had some weather blow in from off the coast, and we have had showers off and on all day so far.

This paint is rated for direct contact on gasoline automobile engines....much higher temps than my smoker will reach.

As for the kettle projects, I am planning on using paint rated for 900 degrees. My infra-red thermometer has shown that on my charcoal cooks recently, that outside temps have never reached more than 500 degrees, even with the coals banked. I have seen temps over 700 degrees when chacking the coals themselves, but heat dissapates and external grill temps are also going to be affected by ambient temps. Most "BBQ" coatings are rated at 1000 degrees, so I think that I am on the right track here. I know that only time will tell, but I am going to test it out rather than just succomb to fears.

As for the kettle parts, I can do it one of 2 ways, either pay to have them baked in a paint booth, or fashion a small plywood and styrofoam "baking oven" out of some scrap lumber that I have, along with a oven element and thermostat. Being a master electrician by trade, and doing tons of work on kitchen equipment at local restaurants, I am pretty sure that I have that issue covered.

Perhaps I am being optomistic here, but I feel very confident in my experiments. Failure would only be a reason to try something else for me. LOL

One more thing, the original coatings also MUST have a clear coat finish. That is the only possible way that the "special edition" products can have those graphics on them. They are reverse tranferred onto the finish, then cleared over. Those are tricks of the trade that paint pros know about.

One more thing, I am not sure about the exact process of the "ceramic" coating from the factory, but the VHT paint that I am using, has ceramics in it as well.
 
On the mini smoker you prob won't have too many problems as the heat is not "high heat". As far as high heat goes (even as low as 500-700) believe me it will bake right off and blister. We have painted a ton of stuff at work and subjected it to high heat, and the paint will has right off. That's why I'm curious to see how this paint reacts. I'm hoping this stuff works, I'll paint everything. I have seen every gimmick for paint out there, and I just need to see it work, before I get too excited. We have even blistered off the so called barbecue grill paint that is designed for high heat. I work as a painter in a prototype model shop and we used to all kinds of this stuff. Painting for high heat applications can be tricky.

As far as comparison between the porcelain and paint there is none. Its two different things. It's like plastic and metal, no comparison. You will always be better with the factory finish on your weber. The action of putting your lid into the lid bale on a performer will start to scratch any paint. It will not easily scratch that porcelain.

As I said I am curious to see how this holds up

Brian
 
I'm gonna go and get some of this stuff tomorrow. I have a SJS that looks like it needs a paint job. I'm gonna put this stuff to the test. Where did you get your paint Alan? I see it is just about sold at every automotive place. I'm going to get some.

Brian

PS No offense I prob wont get the purple
icon_wink.gif
 
Originally posted by Brian O'Neal:
I'm gonna go and get some of this stuff tomorrow. I have a SJS that looks like it needs a paint job. I'm gonna put this stuff to the test. Where did you get your paint Alan? I see it is just about sold at every automotive place. I'm going to get some.

Brian

PS No offense I prob wont get the purple
icon_wink.gif
Click to expand...

Brian, how bout these.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/anodized/
They have an anodized blue AND red.

In the engine enamels...they have some metallic choices
Fire Red, Burnt Copper, Gold Flake, and Titanium Silver Blue
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/enginemetallic/

Ideas Ideas.
 
I am thinking something more classic like red or blue. I do like those huge color swatches they show on the website. Could they make them any smaller? what kind of company shows the colors in a 1/16" x 1/16" square. I need to go look and see whats out there.

Brian
 
Originally posted by Brian O'Neal:
... I do like those huge color swatches they show on the website. Could they make them any smaller? what kind of company shows the colors in a 1/16" x 1/16" square. I need to go look and see whats out there.
Click to expand...

Unless you have a calibrated monitor it would not be wise to match colors from a web page. Best to get actual samples of the colors. There are ways to make the squares bigger, but they won't be any closer to the actual colors.
 
Well, yesterday I started on my way to constructing a Smokey Joe Smoker. I bought the IMUSA tamale pot (made in China) and Smokey Joe Silver from WalMart, and began assembly. One question I had was, is the Smokey Joe lid supposed to be so tight on the tamale pot? I had to take a file to the outside edge of the pot in order for the lid to even begin to fit, and even now it's still a tight fit.
 
Originally posted by Brian O'Neal:
I'm gonna go and get some of this stuff tomorrow. I have a SJS that looks like it needs a paint job. I'm gonna put this stuff to the test. Where did you get your paint Alan? I see it is just about sold at every automotive place. I'm going to get some.

Brian

PS No offense I prob wont get the purple
icon_wink.gif
Click to expand...

No offense at all........that was my concession to Rhonda. You know, the boss.

As for the VHT products, Auto Zone sells a good selection, but I use Amazon.com because I get free 2-day shipping. If you go to their site, you can get a much better look at the colors.

Going to do a burn-in this afternoon, and smoke a pair of Jimmy Dean sausage chubs for the first cook. Will try to take some pics if the light holds out.

I have changed my plans for my next project. I acquired a Stok pedastel grill from HD for $75.00 the other day, and I am going to put yellow over that gawwd aweful orange. I am going to do the lid, legs, wheels, and a couple of handles.

BTW, that Stok for that price is a great deal just for the CI grate.

Hey guys, I really don't want to be causing any commotion or disagreements here, I was just posting pics of MY projects.

Jeff: If you go to Amazon.com's website and search for Duplicolor anodized coatings, you will find that they have purple, red, blue, green, yellow, gold, and some metallic finishes. A much better selection, and they work the same as the VHT, and accept the VHT clear coat sealers as well. They are sister companies. The Duplicilor engine enamels, however, have the clear coat built in, and I wouldn't apply the VHT over them unless you test it on something that you are willing to waste. The VHT is a complete system, and is designed to have the clear coat applied. This will prevent the usual "oxidized" effect that makes paint look washed out or losing it's pigments due to age and exposure.
 
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