I’m new to the forum and thankful for all the great tips. I’m restoring my personal Genesis Gold B and am using Bruce’s tip for replacing the cross member that had the most rust with stainless steel tubing. There’s also surface rust at the four points where the firebox rests on the top front and back frame rails. Besides removing the rust and prepping for high heat paint are there additional options to prevent future rust? Can I add a thin non-conductive material between the frame and firebox, possible a stainless steel shim or? Could I use JB weld steel stick epoxy putty on these rust spots, it claims it won’t rust but it’s only heat rated for 300degrees and not sure if this would be enough.
Rehab - 2002 Genesis Gold B
- Thread starter DMurph
- Start date
Brian B Atlanta
TVWBB Gold Member
I am about to post a thread on an 1100 I am doing for a buddy. Yes and I only have done 3 it rusts where the firebox rests on the frame, I use my orbital sander 220 grit sand those points down I use regular JB Weld which you mix apply it with a metal putty knife sand again if you are really anal it usually needs 2 coats cause you want to put it on really thin. Then I hit the second coat with 220 move to 320 then 400 wet you should not have any scratches on the frame when you paint. The people here know way more than I do, on the bolt going into the firebox I use a stainless washer on the left side then on the inside and another inside the firebox.
Hi Brian, You could use a thin washer between the firebox and the frame cross member. Bear in mind adding space between the cross member and the firebox could push the manifold out of alignment so the control knobs could end off center on your control panel. In the extreme it could flex the control panel.
Also, the manifold is supported by a bracket or wire hooks holding the manifold up to reduce strain and have the knobs on the same plane as the control panel.
Brian B Atlanta
TVWBB Gold Member
B that cross member has an indentation where it meets the firebox its not totally flat like the top of the cross member. Like Bruce said its maybe not even a 16" with the washer. Done 2 that way with no issues when I get my thread up and running I will take a picture to show any gap actually need to go look at my Silver C tomorrow as I don't think there is any gap when you tighten it down but can't remember.
Bruce
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
I have found some grills have an indent and some dont.
Bruce, just trying to minimize as much as possible future rust on the frame in those four spots and wasn’t sure if that was better or not based on stuff I had read. But this is my first time and not familiar with either and am thankful for all the feedback and will go the high temp JB weld.
The manifold bracket had some rust between it and the firebox even though the bolt, locknut washer and nut did not. I was thinking of putting a SS washer between the firebox and manifold. Would that help? I wouldn’t think this would change the valves positions too much and worse case could slightly adjust the cross frame member accordingly.
The manifold bracket had some rust between it and the firebox even though the bolt, locknut washer and nut did not. I was thinking of putting a SS washer between the firebox and manifold. Would that help? I wouldn’t think this would change the valves positions too much and worse case could slightly adjust the cross frame member accordingly.
