Questions about restoring Genesis Silver B

[James Chang]

I'm new to the boards and appreciate the wealth of info here! I've recently fallen down the rabbit hole of restoring a Genesis Silver B in excellent shape, minimal rust on frame. Main issues I've run into are:

1) Fused/melted bolt between firebox and frame. Seeing as there's not much rust (some bubbling so not sure if there's rust under the firebox) and I'm very much NOT a handyman, is it worthwhile to borrow an angle grinder to cut the bolt? I've read some comments about possibly cracking or shattering the firebox in addition to the horrific NSFW injuries on google images involving angle grinders.

2) I disassembled the lid and started using a wire brush attachment to a cordless drill on the inside endcaps only so far, and have noticed significant scratches. Should I continue until the inside is completely free of paint and leave as is? Apply high heat paint to inside of endcaps? The outside of the endcaps seem fine with some minor scratches so I planning on applying some high heat paint.

Any help would be really appreciated!

 

[Bruce]

James, welcome to TVWBB.
I suggest you try soaking the firebox bolt with some penetrating fluid like PB blaster or Liquid Wrench. Let it set a couple hours and hit it again. Do that a few times and then let it set over night. Try to get it to budge the next day. If it won't then you can simply keep wrenching on it and it will either break loose or twist off.

If it twists off, you can try to pound it out. Just be prepared for the possibility of cracking the cook box. I feel that possibility is pretty low unless you act like Lou Ferrigno go after it with a 2.5lb hammer. Just use a regular hammer. If it twisted off with a nub protruding, then just pound the nub. If it twisted off at the cook box level, then you will need to flatten it out level with the cook box and use a punch. To do this an angle grinder would be a good choice, but you could use a drill with a grinding stone on it as well. Low RPM's and less chance of a mishap than using an angle grinder.

HOW TO: Cook Box Frozen Bolt Removal

WHAT: This is a How To on one method of removing the frozen bolt in the cast aluminum cook boxes of various Weber grills. WHY: The cook box mounting bolt as well as the manifold mounting bolts tend to corrode due to aluminum and steel being in close proximity to each other. The dissimilar...

tvwbb.com

If that isn't working or don't want to risk cracking the cook box, then you will need to drill it out. First make sure the bolt is ground off flat and level with the cook box. Then spot punch the frozen bolt in the center with a good punch and hammer. Next, get a spotting bit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CML2DYM/?tag=tvwb-20 and drill a starter hole. Then grab a quality 1/8" drill bit and drill down through the center of the bolt. If it doesn't come out after that, step it up to a size or two bigger bit and drill down through with that. Keep moving up in bit size until the remainder of the bolt comes out.
The key is to take your time and make sure you are going down through the middle of the frozen bolt and not off to the side and into the aluminum cook box.

I would not bother grinding the inside of the end caps unless you plan to resell the grill. If it is personal use, then just get off what you can with either oven cleaner and household Stainless steel wool or using the drill and wire wheel. It will get all gunked up again after a few cooks anyway. DO NOT PAINT the inside of the end caps or inside of the cook box. The paint could put off noxious fumes when exposed to high heat and you don't need that seasoning your Ribeye inside the grill.

 

[LMichaels]

Just cut it off and drill it out. Believe me I am no Lou Ferrigno and firebox I shattered trying to do the same thing happened with a 6oz ball peen trying to punch out a screw. Not a Weber firebox but still a thick high quality cast aluminum one. Couple taps and it went like glass on a concrete floor. Whether using a hammer on cast metal shatters it or not, depends mostly on the amount of corrosion present, the number and severity of heat and cool cycles it has gone through, the thickness and a few other factors. If like Bruce and some other guys you have a bunch of spares and the thought of shattering it is "oh well" than hammer away. If it's your only one drill it out. Far safer alternative
Use something like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZ1FXPM/?tag=tvwb-20 rather than a center punch. They won't walk around on you. I have drilled perfect holes in 10mm rod without trouble using these things. You can find them at Harbor Freight as well. Cheap insurance.
In the end it's your grill. But take it from someone who's had a disaster with an irreplaceable fire box on a rare grill.

 

[Samuel]

Pics would help.

 

[James Chang]

Thanks again for all the help guys. The firebox bolt almost seems melted so didn’t think something like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench would help. See pics.

And on second thought the end caps are quite bubbly and peeling so maybe I will repaint the outside only. From other posts Bruce suggested an angle grinder with a wire cup brush for end caps, so I’ll hope to do that unless there are better ideas. Then HH paint with roll on or satin spray.

 

[Bruce]

It isn't melted off. It is corroded off. Have you tried backing it out with a socket wrench? If not, go after it. If it twists off, no big deal. Then you just pound it out or drill it out like explained above.

 

[James Chang]

It isn't melted off. It is corroded off. Have you tried backing it out with a socket wrench? If not, go after it. If it twists off, no big deal. Then you just pound it out or drill it out like explained above.

Yep have tried socket wrench but won’t budge. I’ll try PB Blaster as you suggested.

 

[Samuel]

Better to use a impact drill driver and very slowly if you have one after you have soaked it with pb blaster thoroughly.

 

[Samuel]

Think this is Bruce removing screws from the bottom. Not the same as yours but the concept is noted. I think Bruce said he may make a video doing what you are trying to do.

 

[Bruce]

Yep, if you have decided to try to screw it out, then soak it with PBblaster a couple times, let it set overnight and use a 1/4" impact on it. Just take it really slow. If it is going to come out, it will, if not, eventually the impact driver will twist it off. Worth a try. My guess is that it will not come out without drilling or pounding it out. But like I said, "worth a try". Just take it SLOOOOW and let the impact do the work to break up the rust and corrosion.