I Just looked up my Razor:Q1200 = 189 sq.in. cooking area, 8.5k burner, 8500/189 = 45BTU/sq.in
Q2200 = 280 sq.in., 12k burner, 12,000/280 = 43BTU/sq.in.
Q3200 = 468 sq.in., 21.7k burner, 21,700/468 = 46BTU/sq.in.
Larger grill = larger surface area for heat loss. The Q1200 is the hot rod of the 3.
By comparison, the BM P3 is 695sq.in., 40k burners, 40,000/695 = 58BTU/sq.in.
Weber Genesis 1/2/3/4/5 = 507sq.in., 35k burner, 35,000/507 = 69BTU/sq.in.
Weber Genesis Silver B/C = 507sq.in., 48k burner, 48,000/507 = 95BTU/sq.in.
For Ian to get 58BTU/sq.in. out of a Q2200, he would need a 16k burner, or about 33% more oomph.
Weber Genesis 1/2/3/4/5 = 507sq.in., 35k burner, 35,000/507 = 69BTU/sq.in.
Weber Genesis Silver B/C = 507sq.in., 48k burner, 48,000/507 = 95BTU/sq.in.
Your right Gen 1-5 and Silver B/C is 420 sq. in. because the grate size for both Gen 1-5 and Silver B/C is 17.5" x 23.8" =416.5" add gaps between grates and firebox would make it approx. 420 size sq. inches .The main grill area of a Gen 1-5, Silver B/C is more like 420 sq. in. Perhaps the 507 sq. in. icludes the warming tray?
I can't read the tags on any of my silver B's, but I thought they were 36,000 BTU.
If these numbers are right then the BTU/sq in is 83.3 for the Gen1-5 and 85.7 for the Silver B
It's just one metric as a quick way to classify grills, kind of like how the horsepower-to-weight ratio of a car says nothing about the way the car handles or goes around corners or its top speed. That 507sq.in. number I picked off a google search, it could be more or less. The 35k and 48k numbers came right off the ID tags on my grills.The main grill area of a Gen 1-5, Silver B/C is more like 420 sq. in. Perhaps the 507 sq. in. icludes the warming tray?
I can't read the tags on any of my silver B's, but I thought they were 36,000 BTU.
If these numbers are right then the BTU/sq in is 83.3 for the Gen1-5 and 85.7 for the Silver B
I think you are talking about pure aluminum, not aluminum alloy, which is likely different. I'd wager the Qs are an alloy, but regardless, at what temp does aluminum alloy soften and lose its shape (rhetorical question)? I think you have straightened some bowed Qs...don't you ever wonder how they got like that?The melting point of Aluminum is 1220
It wasn't my intent to dissuade him from doing anything, and I don't think I could dissuade someone who was he!!-bent on doing something. I'm glad Ian was able to cancel the order and maybe take a step back and do a little more research. I'm sure he could coax some more heat out of his Q, but I don't think he would ever be truly happy with the performance, and at some point it becomes throwing good money after bad. I'm not the guy that laughs when someone takes a fall on the ice, either.I am personally bummed that you scarred Ian off of this. The melting point of Aluminum is 1220°. Plus once the griddle gets up to temp you almost always have the lid up to cook. The whole idea of BBQ and grillin' is to play with fire, using food as an excuse;-)
I like the BTU per square inch as a way to measure these.It's just one metric as a quick way to classify grills, kind of like how the horsepower-to-weight ratio of a car says nothing about the way the car handles or goes around corners or its top speed. That 507sq.in. number I picked off a google search, it could be more or less. The 35k and 48k numbers came right off the ID tags on my grills.
The point to be made is that the Qs are designed primarily to be compact and trying to make a pot belly stove out of one (which is essentially what you are doing with a full-size griddle) may not be a good idea for a cast aluminum product. But when people make up their minds they are going to do something all you can do is take a couple of steps back and hold their beer while they do it.
I'd give you two thumbs up if I could, Ian! Thanks for being gracious!The good money after bad is already behind me... LOL. I've already spent enough trying to make this a good griddle that I could have bought the little 17" Blackstone as well.. I was leery of the maintenance required of the carbon steel surface as I've not had much luck with cast iron or carbon steel pans in the past. This Q functions well as a burger/hotdog/brat cooking device and I'll leave it as such. It just doesn't crisp bacon or sear steak with authority.
On a side note, I talked to a fellow at work with the 17" Blackstone and he says it is bad for a hot spot in the middle and doesn't do well at keeping the peripheral areas hot. He also says it's easy to overload the griddle and having the temps plummet... also not good if there's a breeze, so even if I had bought the little one, I would be struggling with the same temperature problems as I have with this Q.
Thanks for heading me off. I have a tendency to "fix" things till they're broke.
I think even for a small griddle that you would want at least a 2 burner so you can zone. I pre-heat with both on high and then turn one side to low during the cook to put stuff that is cooked to stay warm and not over cook. I think it gives you a lot more flexibility plus I like the room.The good money after bad is already behind me... LOL. I've already spent enough trying to make this a good griddle that I could have bought the little 17" Blackstone as well.. I was leery of the maintenance required of the carbon steel surface as I've not had much luck with cast iron or carbon steel pans in the past. This Q functions well as a burger/hotdog/brat cooking device and I'll leave it as such. It just doesn't crisp bacon or sear steak with authority.
On a side note, I talked to a fellow at work with the 17" Blackstone and he says it is bad for a hot spot in the middle and doesn't do well at keeping the peripheral areas hot. He also says it's easy to overload the griddle and having the temps plummet... also not good if there's a breeze, so even if I had bought the little one, I would be struggling with the same temperature problems as I have with this Q.
Thanks for heading me off. I have a tendency to "fix" things till they're broke.
I think I read someplace that you can wrap half the burner in aluminum foil to create an indirect zone on these, but I don't know how well that would work.I think even for a small griddle that you would want at least a 2 burner so you can zone. I pre-heat with both on high and then turn one side to low during the cook to put stuff that is cooked to stay warm and not over cook. I think it gives you a lot more flexibility plus I like the room.
Joe, the Q grill frame will melt down before the cook box aluminum will melt. Ask me how I know?I am personally bummed that you scarred Ian off of this. The melting point of Aluminum is 1220°. Plus once the griddle gets up to temp you almost always have the lid up to cook. The whole idea of BBQ and grillin' is to play with fire, using food as an excuse;-)
Now this I gotta hear!!! Was it anything like the last flaming video you posted??? How on Earth did you do that?Joe, the Q grill frame will melt down before the cook box aluminum will melt. Ask me how I know?
Yep, I spotted that thread early on. I only skimmed through it, but remembered to slowly open it to avoid latching the safety valve.. This adapter hose is a buddy heater brand and supposedly doesn't have the oil problem, but I'll install the filter I have between the hose and the grill anyway just for an added guard against that.Ian, when you have time, have a read here. Lots of good info. Be sure to read post #7, too. Regulator problems with Qs are common, why? Maybe this is why.
Weber Q - low flame or no flame
Hello everyone! I am a certified gas fitter and I have been working in the barbecue repair industry for about 5 years now. As you all know, the Weber Q grill is extremely popular, both for portability for camping, etc., and for size in small condos. Far too often I hear people complain that...tvwbb.com