Need some help from the Gas guru's on this forum.


 
JeffG

JeffG

TVWBB Emerald Member
2007 E-310 Special Edition with East - West Flavorizer Bars....

This has been an outstanding grill since 2006, yes it is rusted out on the inside bottom tray. The wheels are still attached
and it rolls just fine:D. Its time for new flavorizer bars and the heat shied on the grease tray has just separated.

Looking for a Grease Tray for a 2007 Weber E-310, replacement part # 67758, original part #67767
Measures 23 5/8" X 16 1/8.

Looks like an expensive part but not available.

If not I'll clean the grease tray up as best as possible and pop rivet it back together.
Anybody sand blast their grease trays as this one could use it...after years of tasty BBQ cooks.

Thanks Jeff
 
JeffG said:
2007 E-310 Special Edition with East - West Flavorizer Bars....

This has been an outstanding grill since 2006, yes it is rusted out on the inside bottom tray. The wheels are still attached
and it rolls just fine:D. Its time for new flavorizer bars and the heat shied on the grease tray has just separated.

Looking for a Grease Tray for a 2007 Weber E-310, replacement part # 67758, original part #67767
Measures 23 5/8" X 16 1/8.

Looks like an expensive part but not available.

If not I'll clean the grease tray up as best as possible and pop rivet it back together.
Anybody sand blast their grease trays as this one could use it...after years of tasty BBQ cooks.

Thanks Jeff
Click to expand...
Hi Jeff,

If the grease tray is porcelain enameled steel. Sand blasting isn’t reccomended. If stainless sandblasting is probably overkill

Use a razor decal scraper to remove the crud. Easy off oven cleaner will remove the carbon film after scraping.

You can move your tank to the outside by reversing the scale to the outside wall. That way you don’t need a heat shield if the tank is on the outside.

Or pop rivet your heat shield back on.
 
Hi JeffG:

Our family has two 2007 Genny's online. Yes the tack welds for the heat shield tend to let go after about a decade! Mine in NG and our son's in LP hooked to his house propane tank so the shield is not a big deal for us. Cleaning the drip tray is a chore for sure. I put the tray on top of the grates and let it go on high for a couple of hours, but that is the NG one. Otherwise scraping and a wire wheel on a drill is the easiest to clean the tray which is stainless steel. Once cleaned, I cover the tray with the wide aluminum foil and poke a hole where it opens to the grease tray. Makes cleanup much easier. Other members have had threads on replacement of the rusted out bottom panel. If you don't have much rust in the frame tubes the casters go into, get after them with a rust inhibiter. Same with where the bottom tray attaches to the L&R frame pieces Happy grilling!
 
I read more and more about the build up under the lid and then the cleaning process but nothing mentioned about how to stop it from returning again. Isn’t there something to use ? Tks. BW
 
Really nothing you can do about the build up of carbon under the lid or the corrosion really. If you want to wipe it down each time, you could, but I would not get too aggressive on that liner or you will probably make it more susceptible to corrosion. At some point, you just rip out the liner and drive on.
 
JeffG said:
Back up and running. Clean enough for me.
Pop riveted the heat shield back on the grease tray.
Click to expand...
the tray is not too bad. if you really want it clean soak it in oven cleaner/ degreaser overnight and scrub with copper wire brush.
It will get dirty again next time you grill.
your biggest worry would be the rotting of the bottom panel and the bottom of the frame where the wheels are connected.
 
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