Need help with side burner flame


 
Great discussion! Thanks, Joe!

And I have read other people who swear it works as you say, but the numbers say otherwise. The issue is that I don't know what the Low and Medium BTU from the valve is.

Let's assume the valve has a passage that will provide 3000 BTU on NG. Looking at the table, that would be about a #69 drill. Doing nothing other than changing the regulator and gas for one suitable for LPG, now your output from the table is ~6000 BTU. How does that change?
 
So maybe 6000 BTU is acceptable for a low setting for your intents and purposes. Voila! It works for you! But not as it should.
 
6000 would be the max BTU when the valve is fully open. I really don't know what the low BTU would be because they are not published. Just think about all the gas appliances out there, stoves, fire places, dryers, etc. They are all designed to work on LP or NG and they sell conversion kits that are just new orifices. Even charbroil sells conversion kits. Weber wants you to think that it is more complicated than it is. Now I have never tried converting an OLD Weber as there is no money in it but I have heard they did something funky with the valves but I really don't know what they would have done as it would have cost them more money to have 2 different sets. It would be interesting to take them apart and see and compare. But a valve is a valve it just limits the flow.
 
Joe Anshien said:
6000 would be the max BTU when the valve is fully open. I really don't know what the low BTU would be because they are not published. Just think about all the gas appliances out there, stoves, fire places, dryers, etc. They are all designed to work on LP or NG and they sell conversion kits that are just new orifices. Even charbroil sells conversion kits. Weber wants you to think that it is more complicated than it is. Now I have never tried converting an OLD Weber as there is no money in it but I have heard they did something funky with the valves but I really don't know what they would have done as it would have cost them more money to have 2 different sets. It would be interesting to take them apart and see and compare. But a valve is a valve it just limits the flow.
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Joe, all due respect, but you are pointing to anecdotal instances and skipping over the how-it-works part of it. If it works for you, that's all that matters, really. Just change the orifice and life is good once again!
 
Joe Anshien said:
6000 would be the max BTU when the valve is fully open. I really don't know what the low BTU would be because they are not published. Just think about all the gas appliances out there, stoves, fire places, dryers, etc. They are all designed to work on LP or NG and they sell conversion kits that are just new orifices. Even charbroil sells conversion kits. Weber wants you to think that it is more complicated than it is. Now I have never tried converting an OLD Weber as there is no money in it but I have heard they did something funky with the valves but I really don't know what they would have done as it would have cost them more money to have 2 different sets. It would be interesting to take them apart and see and compare. But a valve is a valve it just limits the flow.
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Believe me Joe they did (don't know if they still do) use 2 distinctly different valves. The low and medium internal orifices on them are differernt. I have done so may of these conversions I know from practical experience. Also on other makes like Charbroil The kit includes more than orifices but also a screw in "stop" to prevent the valves from going all the way down to full low setting. With the Weber valves the LP valves have smaller low/medium orifices. Trust me on this I have taken them apart and measured them
 
LMichaels said:
Believe me Joe they did (don't know if they still do) use 2 distinctly different valves. The low and medium internal orifices on them are differernt. I have done so may of these conversions I know from practical experience. Also on other makes like Charbroil The kit includes more than orifices but also a screw in "stop" to prevent the valves from going all the way down to full low setting. With the Weber valves the LP valves have smaller low/medium orifices. Trust me on this I have taken them apart and measured them
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I do trust you and you have been an inspiration. I have never taken the valves apart. When I did the NG to LP conversions on heaters, stoves and Genesis 2s, I just did the orifices, regulators, and adjusted airflow. When I was looking at converting my first Weber, I found this for the Charbroils: It only consists of orifices, a 90 degree elbow, orifice tool, and regulator. https://www.charbroil.com/medallion-series-built-in-grill-lp-conversion-kit-2429018w06 I found this for Webers - Again just orifices http://www.grill-repair.com/weberconversionorifice.html

I am trying to convert a Napoleon Prestige 500 RSIB and it is more challenging because of the rotisserie, IR sear burner, and the flame thrower ignition. I may have to spend the $$$ for a new manifold and the 2 burner orifices.
 
if you did a Genesis 2 with only orifices you did it wrong. Low and medium will not operate correctly and can blow out on NG causing a real problem
 
LMichaels said:
if you did a Genesis 2 with only orifices you did it wrong. Low and medium will not operate correctly and can blow out on NG causing a real problem
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I did NG to LP and used it for months with no problems. I had infinite adjustments from low to high. I have never done an LP to NG as there is no money in it;-}
 
If you went NG to LP you can "get away" with it. It's not optimal but it's "safe". Unlike the other way. But, unless you get valves that are like the one ones on newer kitchen stoves where they are continually variable (unlike the 3 step valves inside the older Genesis grills) the med/low internal orifices on the spool are different. It's why Weber will not offer a "kit". So in your case the only "issue" you have is your low and med settings are a bit "warmer" than if you actually had the correct valves.
However if you try that the other way (an LP manifold with NG orifices) you can have a potential fire bomb due to the partial flameouts that can cause
 
Ran into the same problem with a new-to-me old NG Silver-C. Burner rods burn blue but side burner burned a tall orange flame even with air intake all the way open. Ended up being a cob web deep in the side burner tube near the orifice, stuck 12” pipe cleaner in there through the air intake, pulled a cobweb gob out, and voila, flame burns low and blue now!
https://imgur.com/a/F4do4yM
 

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GregHum said:
Ran into the same problem with a new-to-me old NG Silver-C. Burner rods burn blue but side burner burned a tall orange flame even with air intake all the way open. Ended up being a cob web deep in the side burner tube near the orifice, stuck 12” pipe cleaner in there through the air intake, pulled a cobweb gob out, and voila, flame burns low and blue now!
https://imgur.com/a/F4do4yM
Click to expand...
Nice. Where did you buy the pipe cleaner
 
@Joe Anshien I have ( I think the year is ) a 2000 or 2001 Silver C that appears to be all original. It was a rescue, but it had the tank hanger and cross mount, the tank bumper things and I recall the sticker on the control panel indicated LP.

I cannot fire it up right now ( it is in pieces ) but I can take pics or measure orifices if it would help.
 
DanHoo said:
@Joe Anshien I have ( I think the year is ) a 2000 or 2001 Silver C that appears to be all original. It was a rescue, but it had the tank hanger and cross mount, the tank bumper things and I recall the sticker on the control panel indicated LP.

I cannot fire it up right now ( it is in pieces ) but I can take pics or measure orifices if it would help.
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Thanks - My question was "Where did he get the pipe cleaner?" I have trouble finding something the right size to get in the tubes.
Joe
 
If pipe cleaners does the trick then you're golden. If you need any more detail, ping me. I can look at mine. It is best I can tell an unaltered LPG Silver C
 
GregHum said:
Ran into the same problem with a new-to-me old NG Silver-C. Burner rods burn blue but side burner burned a tall orange flame even with air intake all the way open. Ended up being a cob web deep in the side burner tube near the orifice, stuck 12” pipe cleaner in there through the air intake, pulled a cobweb gob out, and voila, flame burns low and blue now!
https://imgur.com/a/F4do4yM
Click to expand...
Correction: I incorrectly said NG…this is a LP tank silver C w the orange flame I cleaned the cobweb from
 
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