My Genesis 1000 rehab in progress


 
E

Evan IL

New member
Hello everybody. I was looking for a new grill, stumbled upon this forum, and decided to rehab a Genesis 1000 I found on FB marketplace. When I went to pick it up it was a little dirtier than appeared in the pictures, but fired up when I tested it. I have since gotten it home and taken apart. Most of the parts look to be in good condition and can be salvaged with some TLC. I have gathered all of my cleaning and painting supplies. I also ordered a new drip tray holder because it was in bad shape a new igniter because it was cheap and the old one looked like it didn't have too much life left in it. I am planning to upgrade the caster wheels to something that looks less like it belongs on office furniture. The flavorizer bars and grates look like they can be reused, but I will see after cleaning. I know new stainless ones are preferred, but I could also splurge on those down the road. I am hoping to save the Z bars for the side table but they are not in great shape. I may look for replacements or try to make something out of wood. I am going to be replacing the durawood slats with real wood. I know the durawood is more resilient, but I don't care for the look.

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I have all of my old hardware in individual zip locks and labeled so I know where they go. Is the best way to just take the whole mess of hardware with me to the store to find stainless replacements? I am also planning on picking up some aluminum round stock to replace the wheel axles while I am there.

One of the drip pan slides is disintegrated and needs to be replaced. What is my best option for replacing these?

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Last question: What is the best way to get the bolts off for the lid sides? I thinking about just cutting the nuts off from the inside and replacing. This will be my next step and hope to get it done tonight.

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Thanks for reading!
 
Evan IL said:
Hello everybody. I was looking for a new grill, stumbled upon this forum, and decided to rehab a Genesis 1000 I found on FB marketplace. When I went to pick it up it was a little dirtier than appeared in the pictures, but fired up when I tested it. I have since gotten it home and taken apart. Most of the parts look to be in good condition and can be salvaged with some TLC. I have gathered all of my cleaning and painting supplies. I also ordered a new drip tray holder because it was in bad shape a new igniter because it was cheap and the old one looked like it didn't have too much life left in it. I am planning to upgrade the caster wheels to something that looks less like it belongs on office furniture. The flavorizer bars and grates look like they can be reused, but I will see after cleaning. I know new stainless ones are preferred, but I could also splurge on those down the road. I am hoping to save the Z bars for the side table but they are not in great shape. I may look for replacements or try to make something out of wood. I am going to be replacing the durawood slats with real wood. I know the durawood is more resilient, but I don't care for the look.

It looks like you have a great base for a restore. Good luck and keep us posted.

I have all of my old hardware in individual zip locks and labeled so I know where they go. Is the best way to just take the whole mess of hardware with me to the store to find stainless replacements? I am also planning on picking up some aluminum round stock to replace the wheel axles while I am there.

One of the drip pan slides is disintegrated and needs to be replaced. What is my best option for replacing these?
You can probably buy new ones but they are expensive. I would look for a free donor grill to use for parts. If not, let me know and I can probably spare one.

Last question: What is the best way to get the bolts off for the lid sides? I thinking about just cutting the nuts off from the inside and replacing. This will be my next step and hope to get it done tonight.

If you can use a drill/driver with a long extension and 7/16 socket (6 point is best), you can usually get them off by prying one side a little while unscrewing them. If not, yah, you can cut them off. I use an angle grinder and cut off wheel. Then you can replace them with real stainless steel nuts.


Thanks for reading!
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Comments in line above in BOLD
 
Evan,
Looks like a solid foundation for a nice build. That will clean up nicely.
Onto your questions-

You can match up most of the hardware needed as most are 1/4" 20 bolts of different length.

Regarding the drip tray rails...If your Weber has 11 1/2" drip tray rails the Factory Weber part # should be 98057.

What I do on my restores is buy the larger Weber # 97783 rails which measures 13 1/2" length that are more common and use that one.
If the holes are off you can just re-drill them to size. An added bonus...the #97783 is made of of aluminum and will not rust.

Bottom Tray Rail Assembly 97783 - OEM Weber - eReplacementParts.com

Buy the official Weber Bottom Tray Rail Assembly 97783 replacement - Use our model diagrams, repair help, and video tutorials to help get the job done.
www.ereplacementparts.com www.ereplacementparts.com

To get the bolts off the side lid first soak the nuts inside the lid in some sort of penetrating fluid, Most use PB Blaster but I loathe the smell and have been using Deep Creep by Seafoam. Works just as well and no horrible smell. Stick a small screwdriver under the corner edge and break loose the nut and it should come right off.

Keep us updated along the way.

Jeff
 
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This is what I replace the factory Lid bolts/nuts with-

fJqYScv.jpg


I use Stainless 1/4" x 20 5/8" long tapered bolts.

Jeff
 
Same with me Jeff. Exact same bolts. I think I got the idea from you. I get mine from Boltdepot.com.
 
Quick Update:

I was able to get the lid sides of fairly easily. Thank you Jeff and Bruce for the tips. I used a combination of both suggestions and avoided having to cut anything.

I measured and my drip tray rails are 13 1/2" so I went ahead and got the 97783 set on Ebay for $15 shipped. Prolly not great if I were flipping the grill but it is going to be for me so don't mind paying the money.

Next up cleaning! I will keep this thread updated as I go. May not be super speedy because I will be working on it here and there but it'll get done.

Thanks for the help!
 
Hey Evan! It's looking great! Excited to see your progress!

Also, do you happen to have a serial number of the grill? Even the model would be great. About to start on one of these and would love to find the user manual for this model. Seems like a standard Genesis 1000, but the durawood and the durawoodwood bottom shelf is not something I've had on my others.
 
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Ahymel: If it has durawood, it is a later 1990s Genesis 1000-5000 grill. Look for your serial number sticker on the right side of the control panel or under the control panel.
Post up a photo of your grill and someone can positively ID it and help you find a manual for it. This might be the manual for your grill.
 

Attachments

The serial starts with EZ. Attached is the manual I downloaded from the Weber site after I put in the full serial.
 

Attachments

Quick update. The frame has been sanded down and ready for paint. Today I took on the lid sides and cook box. I used an angle grinder with a flap disc. Also cleaned up the burners with a cup brush on the grinder. All I need to do is clean up the inside of the cook box and then it is time for paint!
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Evan, if that is going to be a personal grill, I think the inside is plenty good. If you clean it down to bare metal, it is going to look just like that after a few cooks anyway. Put your time and effort into other more lasting parts. If you are flipping it, that is a different story.
 
Bruce said:
Evan, if that is going to be a personal grill, I think the inside is plenty good. If you clean it down to bare metal, it is going to look just like that after a few cooks anyway. Put your time and effort into other more lasting parts. If you are flipping it, that is a different story.
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I was kind of thinking the same thing (which is why I left it as the last thing to prep). It will be a personal grill so the juice may not be worth the squeeze to grind it all the way down. I really like how the lid sides and outside turned out as a nice fresh surface for paint, but it looks like the inside would be much harder to do since it is less uniform in shape. Plus like you said it is not like it would stay bare for long.
 
I don't know how I didn't notice this during disassembly or clean up but the bolt that connects the cook box to the frame is snapped off and stuck in the cook box. I have read that this is a known issue on these grills and I am sure I can get it drilled out. 20200729_210824.jpg
The bigger issue: the hole in the spacer bracket is totally rusted out and won't hold the new SS bolt I have. 20200729_210920.jpg
I am thinking about solutions. Maybe I could find a replacement spacer bracket? A quick search online wasn't promising. I was thinking about drilling a larger clean hole in the spacer bracket, but then I would have to drill larger holes in the frame and cook box also, which I don't really want to do. Any advice/solutions?
 
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