Modification to grill lid anyone?


 
Joel, either would work reliably, not exact but consistant.

John, all of the ones you've seen here are weatherproof. I get a little condensation once in a while but I don't keep mine covered most of the time.

The weber ones look nicest to me.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timothy:
A turkey fryer therm similar to this is what I like to use. Clips right into one of the vent holes, and the depth can be adjusted if needed.

Tim </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Me to, and I need to get another one. I wish I could find one that you can recalibrate.
 
Dave.
I believe I got mine at Lowe's about 3 -4 yrs ago.
It's a Masterbuilt and it does come with an adjustment nut for tweaking.

Tim
 
the webers and tru-tels are all in the same range of accuracy. the temp is the indication of temperature at that area in the lid.

Let's say you are cooking indirectly. If all your coals are under the area where the thermometer is, the temp will behave differently at the other side where there are no coals.

if you drill, you are introducing the chance for rust to eventually develop there.

With the cork/stopped method in the vent hole, you can change them out, move it to other grills.
 
I installed one on my kettle. Its not a great idea because high heats during grilling can over extend a dial therm. They have a spring inside and it can get uncalibrated by as much as 50* if the therm gets too hot.

what ever you do, don't make it permanent, so it can be removed when not low smoking. The cork in the vent hole is a good idea, because, when smoking, your vent should be opposite your coal pile.

I also put a nut thing in the drill hole and it seemed like it heated up differently than the metal lid, which caused the lid to warp at the drill hole/nut thing.
 
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