Minion method hot coal placement .


 
MKEvenson

MKEvenson

TVWBB Wizard
I have been using the Minion method and placing my hot coals on top of the cold coals in my WSM 18. Was just wondering if placing the hot coals to only one side of the coal ring would "work better" in that less coals would heat at one time. As far as "work better" I am refering to keeping the temps at or around 225 instead of 250-275.
 
Interesting thought MK. I have seen charcoal systems in offset boxes in which metal snakes form an "s" pattern. The charcoal minions and winds around the s shape and keeps the trail going thusly burning slowly and evenly. For WSM users, many use a small metal coffee can with the top and bottom cut out and placed in the center of your WSM ring of unlit coals, then putting several lit coals in the empty can. Pull out the can and the coals minion from the center. I minion my wsm with 15 or 20 lit coals at even spaces over the top.. I use a draft control system, but the concept is the same. I doubt minion starting the wsm from one side will make your temps that much more controllable. If I were you, I think the coffee can method would be my next choice.
You may be introducing too much air in your system to keep the coals at a slow burn. What configuration are you setting your bottom and top vents? Are you in a windy location? Consider these factors first over and above the placement of coals on your minion start.
 
MK:

I've done a lot of cooks using Jim Minion's method for lighting up, and have always placed the lit coals on top of the unlit in the center of the ring. I have never had any issues getting the WSM to hold at my desired temp from 210-275 this way using water in the pan. I always start to shut my vents down about 20-30 degrees shy of my target temp so that I can be sure to catch things on the way up. Also, as I've gone along in this Q'ing adventure, I've stopped sweating temperatures quite so much, and am pretty happy to have things operating anywhere between 225-260 (measured at the lid.)

Of course, I did get a Guru recently, but that was more for unattended cooking for overnighters, and on days when I just don't have time to keep a close eye on things.

Maybe if you could describe your lighting and vent adjustment methods a bit more, someone smarter than me might have some ideas for you.

R
 
Thanks for your comments. I am using lump coals. I generally fill the ring with cold coals and bury 4 sm pieces of chunk hard wood in the unlit. I then fire no more than 1/2 a chimney of lump. I spread the hot over the top of the cold coals as Minion suggests. I keep my top vent 100% open and close 1 bottom vent 100%. Once I reach about 200 I close the other 2 bottom vents to 25% or less. The usuall routine is for the box temp at the top grate to be about 250-275. Frequently I have the 2 open bottom vents at "barely open". I have used both the foil wrapped dish in the water pan and water in the pan. With water I run maybe 10-15 degrees cooler but the clean up doesn't make it worth using water. I am tempted to close all bottom vents but the coals are barely active with the vents almost closed. I also find no smoke loss from door or hood or middle ring so I really don't think that air is leaking in. I know that many just say don't worry about it, but also many suggest cooking temps in the 200-225 range which I find hard to attain. Weber CS has suggested not using lump because it burns hotter, I like lump for the economy and also for the purity, but if I can find no other reasonable solution I may just go to briquets. Think I'll try adding only a 1/4 of hot and place the hot at one end of the ring.

Mark
 
Mark-

I think maybe I'd try less lit. 1/2 a chimney may just be getting too many coals active, so you'll overshoot. Also, you might get more aggressive with shutting vents at 200 degrees. It's not uncommon for me to close 2 when I get to 195/200, and shut the other to 15-25%.

My current lighting procedure no longer uses coals in a chimney. I use a MAPP gas torch, and just light off four spots in the middle of my full ring of lump. I count about 15 seconds per spot, and that's all I need to get things going.

I've never found any benefit to running 200-225 versus running 225-250 or even up to 275. Brisket sometimes seems to do better at a lower temperature, of course, there are many here who prefer a high-heat method for that.

Having said that, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to find a lighting method that will get you in the range you are looking for, then you can figure out for yourself if that's the ideal spot for YOU to cook in.

Good luck!

R
 
Mark,

Rich gives some pretty good advice so his comments are certainly highly regarded. His method of hitting a torch in 4 spots on the unlit mound is great feedback. Rich and I also use draft control Guru systems so our temps are quite differently controlled than yours.
I also understand your desire for temp precision. If you desire to cook at 225, then you should be able to cook at 225 w/o regard for my opinion. Your WSM can deliver that result to you. I cook at 250 generally so that works for me. I frankly dont want to see my WSM running 295 if I want a 250 cook. I am with you on the same page.
IMHO, I think a part of your control issue results from lump. I know...I know....it burns clean and is the deal. I also know that I had a heck of a time with temp control using lump, just like you. Cowboy burns faster than RO which burns faster than yada yada yada. Its too darn much guesswork what the burn time and temp will be. For this reason I use briquettes only. I use lump for searing hot kettle grill cooks for a Pittsburg style thick ribeye.
I admit my Guru will manhandle lump into submission but only if I dont overshoot startup. Do like Rich and hit the torch lightly on four spots and let the WSM ramp up slowly.
This is just my opinion just as any advice on here. Some good...some not. Its all fun learning and I learn each and every time I uncover my WSM. Enjoy
 
If I want low temps I fill the ring full of charcoal and then I remove briquets from the middle of the ring until my chimney is about half full. I bury a few chunks of wood around the edge of the hole I just created. I light the chimney and when the briqs on top are turning grey I dump them in the middle of the hole I made. I quickly assemble the WSM and fill the bowl with water to about an inch from the top.

Using this method I was recently able to maintain 210-230 vent temp for 14 hours. I used Kingsford Competition briqs. I don't own any sort of computer controlled temperature system, just a candy thermometer through the top vent and clipped on the vent's lip (it doesn't block airflow through the vent).

I find the Kingsford Comp is decent stuff, although I they recently changed the formula and some folks seem to be complaining about the smell. I'm going to try Trader Joe's briquets next time (aka Rancher). The TJ stuff is much cheaper and it tasted really good when I was grilling with it.
 
Thank you all for your very helpful comments. It's really fun BBQing and this helpful site makes it even more so.

Mark
 
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