RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Originally posted by Daniel Schoonover:
How would someone go about sending you some beer money Bryan?
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LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 2
- Thread starter Chris Allingham
- Start date
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Neil Mager
TVWBB Member
In case anyone's looking for a router, the wrt54gtm's are going on ebay for less then $20 including shipping. The TM's are the same as the wrt54gl's with more memory. I built mine based on the TM and it works well.
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
Is it typical for Probe 3 (or any probe for that matter) to show a temp even with nothing plugged in? Once I plug something in it appears to register correctly but when nothing is plugged in it fluctuates around 300.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
If you've got the thermistor soldered onto the FOOD3 probe jack as in the schematic, then you should get something when you unplug a probe. To get it to read ambient temperature just change the coefficients for it to the Vishay 10k.
If you don't have the thermistor, it should blank out if nothing is plugged in. You can check the voltage at the probe jack pin and it should be 5V with nothing plugged in.
If you don't have the thermistor, it should blank out if nothing is plugged in. You can check the voltage at the probe jack pin and it should be 5V with nothing plugged in.
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
Never seen these before. Are the internals the same as the regular g series? So we should look for a v4?
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
Well I'm starting to pull my hair out. I'm getting intermittent connections to all the probes. I've rechecked all the wires and everything looks right. I'll get a temp reading for 5 or so seconds and then it blanks out.
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
I've determined the ET-732s are crap. I suggest not buying them due to inconsistent behavior. Fortunately I have a couple old probes that I can use for my pit temp instead of relying on something that barely works. That was a waste of money.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
It looks to me like the WRT54G-TM layout is identical to the WRT54GL (with the cutout) except they have 32MB of RAM and 8MB of flash. These are amazing actually, considering you can get them for under $20 on eBay.
Neil Mager
TVWBB Member
As far as I can tell (from the wrt54g wiki) there is only one version. You could check the first 4 digits of the serial number to double check:CO61
They are identical to the gl. The picture I posted earlier shows
the board as well. http://tiny.cc/bnqrfw
Never seen these before. Are the internals the same as the regular g series? So we should look for a v4? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
They are identical to the gl. The picture I posted earlier shows
the board as well. http://tiny.cc/bnqrfw
Never seen these before. Are the internals the same as the regular g series? So we should look for a v4? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Neil Mager
TVWBB Member
They aren't that widely known, so not as popular
to buy as the gl.
This guy has 7 of them left:
http://tinyurl.com/79xm2pt
$20 including shipping
to buy as the gl.
This guy has 7 of them left:
http://tinyurl.com/79xm2pt
$20 including shipping
It looks to me like the WRT54G-TM layout is identical to the WRT54GL (with the cutout) except they have 32MB of RAM and 8MB of flash. These are amazing actually, considering you can get them for under $20 on eBay. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
Well I smoked some ribs today with my Linkmeter and it worked amazing. Once I got my air intake dialed in things were just about perfect, this will make things sooooo much more easy, especially for our 4th of July party. Light my pit at 11 PM dial it in by 12 and let it smoke the night away while I sleep.
Daniel Schoonover
TVWBB Member
Thanks for this, I went ahead and bought one just in case an issue pops up with my GL.
It looks to me like the WRT54G-TM layout is identical to the WRT54GL (with the cutout) except they have 32MB of RAM and 8MB of flash. These are amazing actually, considering you can get them for under $20 on eBay. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
I was thinking of a couple features I'd really like and wonder if there is anyone else interested.
1) A, additional 7 segment temperature readout or bigger graphic display.
2) An Output pin to trigger a light or buzzer if outside a temperature range.
1) A, additional 7 segment temperature readout or bigger graphic display.
2) An Output pin to trigger a light or buzzer if outside a temperature range.
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
This is already in (on pin Digital 6), there's just not any way to set the trigger points without recompiling right now. Part of the fabled Alarm System.
RJ Riememsnider
TVWBB Pro
This is already in (on pin Digital 6), there's just not any way to set the trigger points without recompiling right now. Part of the fabled Alarm System. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Awesome!
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
I assume you're using the Optiloader method? I got the same message when the connections were a little loose. If you want to post a picture of your wiring/HeaterMeter board I can take a look at it. Make sure you're also not powering the HM board in addition to the 6 wires from the Uno.
Yes, using OptiLoader, sorry. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting a couple times thinking maybe it was a loose wire but it didnt work.
Here is the board:
I have the two resistors under the one mosfet and the two resistors (including the pullup) and diode under the other. The only thing I have changed about the board is D1 is a 2A 150V Schottky diode. I don't see how that would make any difference though.
Here are the connections I made one by one:
Thanks!
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Aha! I see the problem. The Optiloader sketch needs to be hooked up in a non 1-to-1 fashion to the Uno's ICSP header (because of things like taking the reset line low would reboot both chips).
Starting from your first photo they should hook to the following Uno pins:
(left side)
Digital 12 (this one is OK)
Digital 13 (this one is OK)
Digital 10
(right side)
Digital 9
Digital 11 (this one is OK)
Ground (this one is OK)
I think you can just switch those 2 wires to the digital pins (if I have my pin number to names correctly). If that doesn't work then hook them all up directly to the digital ports and give it a try.
Starting from your first photo they should hook to the following Uno pins:
(left side)
Digital 12 (this one is OK)
Digital 13 (this one is OK)
Digital 10
(right side)
Digital 9
Digital 11 (this one is OK)
Ground (this one is OK)
I think you can just switch those 2 wires to the digital pins (if I have my pin number to names correctly). If that doesn't work then hook them all up directly to the digital ports and give it a try.