K Type is a terrible design. Anyone else?


 
C

Chris D Norton

TVWBB Member
I was wondering if anyone has gone from KType to thermoworks style probe? I imagine desoldering will be needed.

Any instructions on how?

The problem with the design is the wires will eventually touch or Frey with use. I’ve had to fix mine multiple times. During a cook unfortunately.

It’s a thermoworks thermocouple.

Any way to remove the entire thermocouple and go to a standard probe?
 
I've had a thermocouple outside on my grill connected (remotely via CAT5 cable) to my HM for about 10 years now. I cook low and slow but also cook pizza as high as 700 degrees. I killed a dozen regular pit probes before I switched to thermocouple, never killed a thermocouple, so I disagree with your assessment. That said, being a permanent connection I don't unplug the TC often, so maybe that's why I don't have issues with the TC wires.
Due to the high heat insulation on the TC wires, twisting and turning the cables can cause wire to become exposed and short out, but it's an easy fix. I learned to pull back the insulation , cut the wire short, then connect it to the screw. This makes the insulation kinda push itself into the connector and prevents exposed wires. There's no way a regular probe would survive the heat and weather I have put my TC through, so I am TC all the way for pit probe....
That said, you have two options.
1) In the HM config, Disable probe 0 (TC) and probe 1 (regular) will now become the pit probe. You lose a probe, but I rarely use all four probes anyway
2) The HM board does have holes in place for a standard probe socket at probe 0. You could install a regular probe jack there if you like. You'd have to look at the TC circuit on the schematic and find the component or trace on the board that leads in/out of the TC circuit and either remove the first/last component, or strategically decide a couple traces on the board to cut to disconnect the TC circuit... Oh, and you'd have to install a pullup resister and I think a filter capacitor there at probe 0 as well, there will be holes on the board to install those parts.
My advice to you would be to get better at connecting the TC wires in a way that the insulation doesn't pull back on the wire, and make sure you do not omit the red rubber ring, it seals the connector and also helps squeeze the wires and hold them in place. If connector issues plague you during cooks perhaps just buy a spare TC so you can swap them out real quick and fix the connector later?
 
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Agree with Ralph. Keep the Thermocouple. Thermocouples have less noise and are way more robust than an rtd. I have used my own homemade Kapton coated thermocouples for 5 years and never had one fail. Kapton holds up well as long as it's not hit with direct flame which never happens with my setup. Last always be careful not to pull on cable when removing from Heatermeter. I hate saying this, but in the past at the place worked at, I was always repairing thermocouple connections in plugs because of that, people yanking on cable to remove from instrument.
One other thing. DO NOT TIN CONDUCTORS on thermocouple wire ends. They no longer will give you the correct readings. If you have done this, cut back the solder tinned conductors and reconnect to plug with bare, twisted wires.
 
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