Improved Chicken Skin: a first try


 

George C

New member
First, I need to give credit where credit is due: some of this method comes from the way the Chinese treat duck carcases and the rest adapted from a chicken recipe in America's Test Kitchen.

Most of us are familiar with the rubbery skin we get when chicken is slow smoke-cooked, around 225 degrees or so. Here is the first installment on a partial fix.

Start two days ahead of time.

Get a really good, quality chicken. No, that does not include chickens with any kind of water pumped into them. 3.5 to 4 pound is a good weight. I like Puritan brand, as it meets my needs and is easily availble here, YMMV. Take the chicken out and cut the factory trussing off. Inspect and clean the bird, if needed--most of the Puritan birds only need a little fat pulled off.

I have my wife, who has small hands, put her hends under the skin, between the skin and the meat, and separate the skin from as much of the chicken as is possible. That includes as much as possible of the legs and thighs and you can enter the space from the gut end or from the neck end, as needed. Be careful to not tear the skin. If you tear the skin, repair the skin by stitching, before you cook it, else the smoke distribution will be uneven on the meat. Good looks do count, especially for company.

Place the chicken in the frig overnight, uncovered, so that it will dry the skin. It will look a little funny the next day, but that is just fine. 18-24 hours is needed.

Take the chicken out of the frig about 2 hours fefore cooking time and place on a rack in a pan. Leave on countertop. That is just to get good air circulation around it. Dry the chicken well with paper towels and rub the bird with a mixture of 1 Tablespoon full of Kosher salt and 1 teaspoon full of baking powder. The baking powder changes the pH of the skin so that it will brown more easily. Let it sit, uncovered. until just before cooking. You can refrigerate if, if you like, as it will do no harm.

Prick the skin of the chicken with a knife about 25 times. Just through the skin, trying not to get into th meat. This provides holes for the renered fat to drain out of while browning.

Place the chicken on an empty beer can or beer butt roaster. on a pan, in a hot oven at 450 degrees, or so. I like a convection oven, as it browns better. You can turn the chicken around once, if you like, to even out the brownomg. The chicken does not need to be dark brown, a light brown is sufficient, but suit yourself. The skin should be much improved by this time.If your wing tips come out too dark in relation to the rest of the bird, then cover with Aluminum foil or tuck the wings behind the chicken before roasing. My Puritan chickens come with the very tips of the wings removed, so I only will put a little foil at the very end of the remainign bone. If your beer-butt roaster has a drip pan, you can save the Schmaltz and use it elsewhere: it is really good stuff.

Take the bird out of the oven and let it cool some and then refrigerate over night, covered with foil.

The next day, smoke-cook at 225 degrees until meat is 165-175 degrees internal temperature.

I have only tried this with one bird, so it is a work in progress. The chicken was very good and the skin was a distinct improvement. As time goes on, perhaps the above can be simplified.
 
Three things I have found to improve skin, which is very similar to what you mention. Drying via refrigerator overnight, salting to pull out moisture, and use a jaccard instead of a knife to pierce the skin.
 
Three things I have found to improve skin, which is very similar to what you mention. Drying via refrigerator overnight, salting to pull out moisture, and use a jaccard instead of a knife to pierce the skin.

Sounds good to me, although the jaccard I have is a little large for a chicken. My greatest concern right now, is the repeated heat and cold cycles and growing bacteria. I would like to find a way around some of that. Thanks.
 
Try doing your chicken at 325. Eliminates your skin problems and you can get plenty of smoke flavour on the bird in 1 hour. Or do low and slow and then jack the temp up for the last 20 minutes. Your partial cooking of the bird and then refrigerating is a disaster waiting to happen IMO.
 
Try doing your chicken at 325. Eliminates your skin problems and you can get plenty of smoke flavour on the bird in 1 hour. Or do low and slow and then jack the temp up for the last 20 minutes. Your partial cooking of the bird and then refrigerating is a disaster waiting to happen IMO.

Agree 350 to 400 is what I like.. chicken does not benefit from low and slow. It receives smoky flavors very easily and doesn't have the fat and connective tissue that a pork shoulder has which does benefit from a more gentle heat environment.

I don't brine, just cut off excessive fat, dry it, oil, seasonings, and cook it at around 350 to 400. For this the kettle is preferred to the WSM.
Never a problem with rendering the fat under the skin and getting the skin crispy.
 
George, I don't mean to be disagreeable, but the method that you describe seems way too complicated for a smoked chicken.
If you were not so far away I would do a "chicken throwdown" with you. Its always interesting to hear another viewpoint though.
 
George, I don't mean to be disagreeable, but the method that you describe seems way too complicated for a smoked chicken.
If you were not so far away I would do a "chicken throwdown" with you. Its always interesting to hear another viewpoint though.

Honestly only sounds complex. Have been fooling around with this technique recently.

What it boils down to is loosening the skin, treating skin with salt and baking powder, resting in the fridge to dehydrate a bit, and pricking the skin so moisure can escape.

I've had very good results. Nice crisp skin and breast/thighs moist and cooked.

Two variations I've been using. 1.) Skewer/prick only the areas under skin where the fat's concentrated. I.e., along back. Around wings and thighs. 2.) I put a bag of ice in the breast cavity while the bird's coming up to room temp. Starting the cook with breast at lower temp than thighs keeps breast from drying out.

I'm sure there are other good methods to get really crispy skin and nicely done, both, white and dark meat. That said this has been working for me lately. Additional steps above really only add -- 10 minutes maybe? -- to overall prep.

Again, for what it's worth.....
 
Sounds like you know what you're doing and I really don't like the rubbery skin, however, I would just suggest to everyone it is very important to keep all poultry out of the danger zone for growing bacteria. You mess this up once and you might never eat chicken again.
 
Sounds like you know what you're doing and I really don't like the rubbery skin, however, I would just suggest to everyone it is very important to keep all poultry out of the danger zone for growing bacteria. You mess this up once and you might never eat chicken again.

Amen to that brother. So please allow me to clarify.

When I pull the bird from the fridge (38*F) and let it rest with a bag of ice in the breast cavity. I never leave it for more than 30 minutes. That's enough.

This goes whether I'm doing a 1 1/4 lb chicken or a 20lb turkey.
 
Know what? Now that I think about it. There's no reason why I couldn't stuff the breast cavity with the ice bag and let it rest that way in the fridge. My ice is around 0* I should still get the temperature differential I'm looking for white/dark and I'd still be well within safe food handling conditions.

Thanks for bringing it up James. Not sure I would have thought about it without your prompt.
 

 

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