How to : Remove stripped valve screws


 

ChrisArgentino

TVWBB Fan
Try this at your own risk. My bolts were really rusted and seized so if you follow these steps you should end with success

This is how I removed those tiny valve screws that get stripped easily.

1. Apply penetrating fluid a day in advance multiple times. Apply it where the head of the both is. Then flip the manifold around and spray the underside where the bolt stud is

2. Use cut off wheel (preferably a dremel) to cut a groove into the bolt to imitate a flat head screw. Use either a slower speed or just start it, then stop it and while it’s dying down, place it firmly on the bolt. Do this until you have a deep groove. The deeper the better without cutting into the valve itself. Be careful if you’re using a cut off wheel because your room for error is very slim due to the thickness of the cut off wheel. This is why a Dremel is the better choice.



Because you guys have helped me out so much the past couple years (especially recently), I made a video hoping to at least help one person so they can enjoy their grill once fixed and restored.

 

Attachments

  • IMG_9201.jpeg
    IMG_9201.jpeg
    128.3 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_9202.jpeg
    IMG_9202.jpeg
    107.6 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_9203.jpeg
    IMG_9203.jpeg
    122.2 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_9204.jpeg
    IMG_9204.jpeg
    140.7 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
Nice job, but I've never come across a Genesis 1000 manifold that has the screws sticking out that much to be able to do this. They have all had screws that were at best even or sunken into that valve housing. So of course after I strip them trying to get them out, I have to go to plan B. Fortunately, plan B works very well for lubricating the valves and restoring their ability to lock in place.IMG_20250724_195513296.jpg
 
Nice job, but I've never come across a Genesis 1000 manifold that has the screws sticking out that much to be able to do this. They have all had screws that were at best even or sunken into that valve housing. So of course after I strip them trying to get them out, I have to go to plan B. Fortunately, plan B works very well for lubricating the valves and restoring their ability to lock in place.View attachment 116708
Plan B meaning lubricating the valve shaft without disassembly? If so, what is your choice of lubricant? I believe automatic transmission fluid has been mentioned.
 
Plan B meaning lubricating the valve shaft without disassembly? If so, what is your choice of lubricant? I believe automatic transmission fluid has been mentioned.
Gibbs has been my go to for working on grills. It does a great job lubricating and breaking up solid deposits on almost anything. It also does a fantastic job dissolving rust. The first thing I do with a manifold or a tank scale is set them on an old cookie sheet and then spray them down completely before I start working on the rest of the grill. The stuff doesn't dry up so you can let it work it's magic for days before getting back to those parts. Screenshot_20250724-213249.pngPolishing the valve stems clean with a wire wheel also helps to make the action smooth again.
 
Steve,
I remember now that I actually bought a can of that based on your recommendation but haven’t used it yet. I will give it a try (along with polishing the valve stems) on my Vieluxe. Stripping one of those valves would be a di$a$ter😖.
 
Steve,
I remember now that I actually bought a can of that based on your recommendation but haven’t used it yet. I will give it a try (along with polishing the valve stems) on my Vieluxe. Stripping one of those valves would be a di$a$ter😖.
If you let the Gibbs soak into the threads of the valve screws for a day or two, it might help get them out easier. I always try and get the screws out first to disassemble and lube the valves, but it just doesn't work out that way for me most of the time. I agree damaging that manifold would be a tragedy.
 

 

Back
Top