HM for a B+(work in progress)


 
Its Alive, well I don't have a LCD connected nor TC amp or probe connectors But I do have communication with Atmega328 TQFP version and it seem to be working great so far. So, I know now that the last design does work, after all. I had 2 more boards to try and I Reordered the parts needed and this time I was very careful soldering the Atmega, its a *****, but I think the newer version I have in the works will be easier, as the Vias are not as close to the pads. Also this version has a dimension flaw with the placement of the Pi header. Also, I have not been able to test with a B+, as the ones I received(free) did not work, well don't work now.

Tomorrow, I will add the LCD, TC and probes
 
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Well I soldered up the rest of the board and everything works except the stupid button. Pressing the button to the left works fine, but none of the other directions work. There are some other minor issue with just soldering SMD parts in general. The TQFP sized Atmega is a pain in the butt.
 
In the mouser BOM you send me are two wrong resistor values. 680K instead of 680 Ohm and 390K instead of 390 Ohm. Both values are used for the button. Also you might have issues with the LEDs.
 
My 4 thermistor boards are ready and on their way from China, can't wait to build one!

17096-1.jpg
 
I sent for a new version, v3.

There are no vias under the Atmega, except one for the ground.
And moved the Pi header 2.54mm to the right-I had it that for the first version, but did not realize, it was not in the correct spot on the last version.
Changed the resonator from smd back to through-hole -reason is that the SMD version is hard to solder and there is no space savings in using it.

And this time I ordered the correct Resisters(390ohm, 680ohm)

I like the looks of the board Peter. These smd boards are fun to solder and don't take long to solder them up, The Atmega chip is the only pain and I am using magnification to line up the solder pads and still I seem not to be able to get good alignment.
 
Did you change the design to use the SMC switch? The through-holes are nearly impossible to get now.

Mind sharing the design? I'm looking to do a build and using a B+ and SMC components is fairly attractive.
 
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