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Help with an LX ignition system please


 
Ahhhh thats cool. I am always open to learn and thats why I love this forum. I rarely come across LX models so I am not an expert with them vs the others that I can resto blindfolded. I did not know about the high plus sear option on each burner....that is very interesting. Now that tells me that the regulator or internal valve body and orifice jetting is different with the LX models that you speak of. So I am assuming they can zip right up to over 700 for a blazing hot grill if this feature actually works whereas the typical 335 will slowly climb up into the 600's which of course is more than plenty. I find that my additional sear burner gets that zone blazing hot and does a great job. I am now excited to put this LX through its paces. I have an old Gen 310 front control and a Gen II E 610 that have to be finished tomorrow but after that I will let the LX cut in line and be next man up. I will report back ......heck I might even cook a steak on it before I clean it up.
 
Josh Dekubber said:
It also has a taller lid than all the other Genesis ii grills which doesn't matter to me but could be appreciated for rotisserie. The exterior SS is higher quality and I found the warming rack was thicker. Just some little things.
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Actually the LX Warming rack is actual stainless steel instead of the plated chrome like the non-LX warming racks.
 
Ok I finished the two flippers that were in line before the LX........You guys have me excited to look a little deeper at this beast. Will start tinkering tomorrow.....but really dig in on Friday. Genesis E 610 Done.......Genesis 310 done.....both already sold......my market is ridiculous.
 

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So introduced myself to the LX today.....finally had a chance to look at the starter.....thank goodness the previous owner just had the battery in backwards. I cleaned the grates and fired the LX right up with no issues. I cooked some dogs just so I could see how fast it heated up and get a feel for the differences to my 335. The paint on the control panel is splotchy so I dont know where the SEAR position is on the knob.....I assumed it was first stop after fire......Anyway the grill blazed up to 500 with no issues. To me .....assuming I had it on the sear position for all 3 knobs.....I didnt see any difference between the two grills other than my 335 has a dedicated sear area which is very effective. If the wife gives me to " go sign " I will resto it tomorrow and give final thoughts.
 
Yah, SEAR should be first position after the ignite position. One down from there is High.
 
I would think there would be a detent stop at high then a step beyond high. IMO that would be the most sensible
 
Yep thats what I figured....thanks! The wife has not given me the " go " sign.....so the LX has to wait til Monday but I am chompin at the bit to get it all cleaned up. Sorry for the LX lovers.....but I think the 335 has cleaner lines and the LX will not dethrone the 335.
 

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That said they are almost identical so it just comes down to personal preference and the need for the additional gadgets. Taller hood and added stainless is not a gadget....so points for the LX there
 
Ok Josh you have me confused a bit. First and foremost your work is top notch. Now that I have that out of the way.....I have questions. Lets just discuss the stainless version for my questions. Soooooo you bought that grill for sayyyy $150 or $200 in good shape but needed to be cleaned up. Then removed end caps of the hood.....end caps of the side tables and painted......also painted the knobs and some frame work. Then replaced all the guts with new or are you just an amazing cleaner? Because if you replaced the guts you would be at $400 all in if you used the good stuff.......so how much could you flip that grill for.....I am guessing $600? What paint are you using on end caps of side tables...hood....and knobs? Also what is your method of cleaning the stainless steel? Bar Keepers? The grill looks fantastic. With my flip.....which is polar opposite of yours. I purchased much higher than I usually pay but all in for $200 and sold for $425 plus $25 delivery total $450 so $250 total for my efforts of around 4 to 6 hours.
 

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Well let see if I can remember everything.

I pretty sure I purchased the grill for $100 just up the street from me. Maybe $125

Grates were original SS cleaned up perfect. New unused rotisserie came with it and two full tanks of propane which I kept one and gave one with the grill.

SS Flavorizer bars and SS Heat deflectors I picked up several sets on sale for $9.44

The paint for the cook box and end caps. I picked up a bunch of Rustoleum high heat ultra on clearance for $1.44 per spay paint. I also use Rustoleum 2x and VHT plastic paint.

I always use Mother's brand polish on SS. Can't live without it.

Maybe $200 or less invested and about 1.5 days. Sold in 4 days for $800.

I think I covered everything but here is the thread if I missed something.

Josh Dekubber

Thread 'Genesis ii S-345 (Night Sear Edition)'

Well at least that's what I'm calling it lol.
Just finishing this restoration. This grill was actually in great shape and it's against my better judgment to do a full breakdown repaint for something that doesn't need it but I wanted to do this color change from gray to blackout. I'm very happy with the end result. I used high heat paint on all of the metal and I used VHT high heat plastic paint on all of the plastic parts. Including table end caps, control panel end caps, wheels and knobs. Also painted the flames inside the sear burner knob red with my daughter's acrylic paint pen. I...
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I just wanted to do the blackout because I wanted to see my vision and see what it would sell for. Honestly as far as money for a full repaint it was a wash based on selling the exact same grill without a full repaint.

I got this one for Free cleaned and reused everything. Just the cost of cleaning supplies. About 1 day invested. Sold for $620 in less than 1 hour. All profit minus cleaning supplies. Definitely easier for about same profit. No regrets on either.

I've done 6 blackout grills this year and enjoyed doing them.

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Here's pics of my current daily use grills at both my places for now

image.jpgimage.jpg

I'm going to switch out the 3 burner with the red Jr. For a Genesis 1000. So 2 old together and 2 new together.
 
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Well done....well friggin done! I use Mothers on other stuff but never thought about using it on a stainless grill....good tip. Getting $800 for any grill is an art. Your grill looked better than factory and factory cost $1400 so I can see you getting your money for it. My market in Va is insane with plenty of buyers...my grills sell very fast but $450 is what the market around here will bare. Yes I can get more for a special grill like a 6 burner or a Summit or something but generally $400 or $450...... Im tipping my hat to you......well friggin done.
 
JimV said:
Well done....well friggin done! I use Mothers on other stuff but never thought about using it on a stainless grill....good tip. Getting $800 for any grill is an art. Your grill looked better than factory and factory cost $1400 so I can see you getting your money for it. My market in Va is insane with plenty of buyers...my grills sell very fast but $450 is what the market around here will bare. Yes I can get more for a special grill like a 6 burner or a Summit or something but generally $400 or $450...... Im tipping my hat to you......well friggin done.
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Thank you!
The market is definitely in my favor in Washington for buying and selling. In Arizona I feel like it's more of a buyers market but great inventory. The markets can definitely be drastically different from one region to another. I wouldn't even try to sell a classic old Weber but the ones I restore I don't want to sell anyways so.. The last grill I flipped was a blackout Performer Deluxe with custom badges handles and utensil hooks. Went all out and it was the hardest grill to find a buyer for. I just sold it about a week ago and did pretty good but it took a while to sell so I definitely won't do another one. Glad I got to try it out for a while before I restored it and I'm glad I got to finish it the way I in visioned it though. No regrets.
 
Cody Bratton said:
@Josh Dekubber - with the mothers polish, to you also have to follow the grain with that? Or can you do orbital motion without harming it? I got to this with BKF. If it can get better I’d love to make it happen.
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Looks pretty good to me. You don't have to go with the grain. It doesn't have any grit in it but I would go with the grain for best results. The only way you could get it to shine like chrome is to wet sand it down with very fine sandpaper until there is no grain and then polishing it but probably more work than it's worth. I would definitely test on a scrap or inside first. It's definitely possible but the amount of hours to make it perfect would be high.
 
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