Fixing Weber Burner Valves


 

DrAllan

New member
Anyone have experience with fixing sticky gas grill burner valves. I've watched a few videos and it seems pretty straight forward.

I've got a 20 y/o Genesis C 3 burner side mount that I love. There are a couple of problems I'm trying to troubleshoot.

1) Sticky rear valve. Doesn't like to turn, doesn't stop at the preset (H, M, L) notches, etc.
Hopeful a quick clean will take care of it without having to replace. I'll do them all while I'm at it.

2) Rear burner flame control issue. On High the rear burner seems to partially go out. On med/low it works as expected, but when set to high I can hear and see the flames disapear from half of the tube (closest to the valve). They then relight and go out again, kind of like watching the flame dance down the tube. I also hear a bit of a hissing sound from the valve (no gas smell) and a ringing sound from the tank.
I've changed out the regulator and messed with the air flow vent without much luck. Any thoughts on this? I'm hoping that there is a gasket or something that is worn and letting too much air/gas through the line and the valve rebuild will help.

Anyone have any experience with this? It looks like a new manifold and valves runs 100$+ so I'd like to avoid that if possible on a 20 y/o grill. Might remove everything and give it a good sand and fresh coat of paint, but hoping to avoid throwing too many parts at it. Burner tubes, flavorizor bars, and grates were all replaced w/ SS a few years ago.

Thanks,
 
Lots of info already in the threads here. Chris was kind enough using some instructions I had put out to make an actual video. It's not rocket science BUT requires lots of caution especially for not stripping the screws. Your burner issue may or may not be related tot he valve(s). I would start with a full on basic cleaning of the entire grill, burners included and move onto the valves. Re test if still an issue come on back maybe with photos (not links please) and we will help
 
It sounds like the valve that is sticking is also the one that creates the gas flow for that rear burner you are having problems with. A good cleaning and lubing might help, but there might be something physically wrong with it as well.

Check this thread for a great how to on cleaning and lubing valves.

 
Just an update.

Finally got a break in the weather this weekend and was able to do some maintenance. Cleaned up and lubed the burner valves, changed regulator hose with weber brand (was using generic off Amazon), and adjusted the air vents and all works as good as new. Also replaced igniter button and touched up some rusting parts on the manifold tube while I was in there. All together took maybe an hour and was well worth it.

If you haven't done this in a while, I recommend it. Knobs turn and stop so much more smoothly now.
 
I didn't' do a lot of research before buying 1st regulator.

I was using this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2MPZD1/?tag=tvwb-20



Switched to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WEMH32/?tag=tvwb-20

Not sure if the regulator made a difference or if it was a combination of other things. I didn't really do a scientific experiment to isolate the culprit. I took out the burner tubes and removed the manifold for better access to the valves. In doing so I removed the old regulator hose. Upon reinstallation I installed the new one. So it may or may not have been a factor.
 
FWIW - For those who are doing the valve cleaning & lube, and have run into screws in poor shape, the replacements are M3x10, at least for the late 90's and early 00's Genesis. I was able to find Philips Cheese Head and Button Hex at the local True Value Hardware store. However, they were only available in stainless.

I was able to remove the 4 screws from 2 valves, and was able to C&L and replaced the screws. The last valve's screws are badly stripped, so I will be spending a little extra time there.
 
Hey Guys- I just replaced my gas tubes on my trusty Genesis and now I can't get any temperature over about 300 degrees. Any clues?? I can see everything lit, but won't get hot enough. HELP!
 
May be in partial safety shutoff from the OPV valve. Disconnect the tank. Wait a couple minutes, reconnect, turn the tank on s l o w l y and then turn on one burner. Light and then the rest. It should then operate normally
 
To add to what Larry said: Make sure you burners are OFF when you reconnect the tank and slowly open the valve. THen slowly open the tank, turn on burner one and light. Then turn on the rest.
 

 

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