first time owner - rehab & convert 2008 Genesis 310 NG to LP


 
G

Gavin D

New member
I was recently gifted an unwanted 2008 Genesis E-310 NG (model #93841001). I've been reading lots of old threads here for rehab and converting to LP, and you guys are rockstars - I've learned a lot already. I just wanted to post some starting pictures of the grill and get some advice on components and cleaning tips you'd recommend. This is my first real grill and I'm excited, but want to make sure I treat it right.

Here are some starting pictures:
IMG_8469.jpeg IMG_8453D.jpeg
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I understand the distinction between fixed and continuous valves (thanks, LMichaels!), and confirmed I lucked out with continuous valve spools:
IMG_8447D.jpeg IMG_8448D.jpeg

But I'm still on the fence between buying LP orifices + regulator ($46 landed, grill-repair.com) or a full LP manifold ($117 landed, grillparts.com) because:
  • I know with fixed valves, aperture size is different between NG (larger opening) and LP (smaller opening). For those who have converted before - is it confirmed that NG/LP continuous valves are identical, and an orifice swap to LP will give me the same performance? I can imagine a hypothetical world where NG continuous valves have a wider graduated slot than LP continuous valves, leading to hotter burns at lower settings with LP fuel.
  • With no NG hookup at my building I can't do a test-fire. How does this manifold and burner wear look to a trained eye? From what I can tell, the grill has never really been cleaned. The person who gifted it to me also never fired it up; it was included with a home they bought.
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With all that, I was hoping to get input on 5 questions:

1. Given the state of the manifold, would you guys go for the full manifold swap or just switch out orifices/regulator?​

2. I was wondering about the LP tank scale (~$30). I know they're not strictly necessary. Anyone think it's worth the price (and know what the mounting screw dimensions are? aftermarket scales don't include the hardware to mount the scale to the frame)​

3. Hose length - I can get 28" or 40", and planning to get 28" unless there are strong objections.​

4. Any tips for cleaning the real caked-on stuff inside? I've been scraping away at the burn box, but the drip tray is in dire straits. Not sure if the original owners even emptied it once...when I picked up the grill there was so much built-up debris in the tray that a huge colony of nasty looking bugs had taken up residence inside.​

5. Finally, I was wondering about the state of these porcelain enameled flavorizer bars. I scrubbed them for a while with dish soap and steel wool (hope that wasn't a terrible idea...) Most of the char is off but there's definitely rust and cavitation on these things. I'm hoping they still have some life left in them.​
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And just for laughs, this little amputated Char-Broil is what I've been grilling with the last couple of years. Its lone flavorizer bar looks like a bunch of corn flakes at this point but it's got character. Can't wait to get the Weber fired up.
 
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Odds are if you use the conversion chart and great care you should be fine. The only thing I could foresee is perhaps at low flame setting it might run SLIGHTLY hotter. But I have not seen any issues on my previous conversions. My brother is one of them. (went from LP to NG) and his is working just as fine as the hair on a baby's umm rear end
 
Gavin:
You've got a good grill there. Only real drawback is rust, especially the bottom panel. Answering your questions:

#1 replacing the manifold is the way to go.
#2 You can get a fuel guage that goes inline which works just as well. If you want to store the tank inside the grill, you will need to make a hole in the right side panel/frame for the hose.
#3 Your choice depending on where you are planning to keep the tank. hose need to reach the manifold connection
#4 In the firebox probably a wire brush or cup grinder. Just get the heavy stuff off. The drip tray, scraping or again a wire brush/drill attachment.
#5. If you have holes in them other than the manufactured ones, they need replacement. If you can't see daylight, don't worry about them. Just brush them from time to time.
 
Your igniter may work too. Pay attention to the thin strips on the sides of the plastic button. That's what makes contact with the spring to complete the circuit.
 
Thanks for such quick tips, everyone!

Drew Z. - I reached out to Jon K about that manifold. Hope it doesn't cost too much to ship across the country.​
​
LMichaels - I appreciate your expertise. Assuming I can get my hands on an LP manifold, I'll also measure slot size in NG vs LP continuous valves for posterity.​
​
Dan - Thanks for the input, I hadn't thought of using a cup grinder. I will definitely check the igniter. Regarding the bottom panel rust - did you already see some obvious pain points, or do you just mean it's something to watch out for in the future?​

I'll make sure to update this thread once things are in place and it's fired up.
 
Gavin: The rust usually is worse on the LP grills since they had a hole to hold the tank. Looking at the photo you posted, hard to tell if you have anything going on in the left rear corner due to gunk. I'm guessing once you have it cleaned up, you will be able to tell much more. Usually spreads on the bottom side of the panel and into the tubes that hold the casters. Also, you have the model number, but try to get the serial number off it as well. Perhaps the original owner didn't register it. If so, you might be able to register as an owner.
 
Thanks Dan, I'll keep an eye on that left rear corner. I do have the serial number and will try to register the grill too. But I'm pretty sure swapping the manifold will void any warranty. Is there another benefit to registering?
 
Don't need to mention that it was converted unless one of the problems has to do directly with the fuel source.
 
Good point, Bruce. It's not like I've done anything to the grill yet anyway, other than cleaning. I'll try registering today.
 
Well for sure this Weber will be a big step up from that Charbroil.

Looks to me like your inside cabinetry is in well above average condition. Maybe as was noted the lack of a bottom hole helped keep it drier. Of course, you will need to MAKE a hole if you are converting to LP so that the tank has a place to drop down into. I did one of these, and I remember that the holes are at least there for you for installing a tank scale.

These grills deservedly get a lot of flack for their propensity to rust. However, if you can keep that at bay, they are really nice, especially configured with the side burner controls and "E-W" burners and crossover in the classic Weber design. Many of us here call these "Sidewinders" to distinguish them from the very similar, later version with the front controls and "N-S" burners. Yours is the much better design in my opinion.

Best wishes on your renovation!

p.s. I personally would give up on those flavorizer bars when you are able. I can highly recommend these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W51YRFJ/?tag=tvwb-20
 
Thanks for the input on the flavorizer bars, Jon. Those replacements do look nice.

I was considering getting a tank stand like this (saw it recommended elsewhere on the forum). Assuming it all fits inside the cabinet, I'd love to avoid cutting a large hole.

Just curious - what makes the side burner controls preferable? E-W burners are longer, giving a more uniform heat?
 
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Probably the biggest benefit is that you can do rotisserie on them much better than with the N/S grills. But the burners are longer in the E/W grills which allows a more even even heating across the grates.
 
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