Deck issues


 
Really, the guy wants to go to 220!? You’ll have a dance floor! It’s a deck, it’s going to get stained, it’s going to be in the weather, that seems pretty extreme to me.
Is he charging by the hour or bidding the job??
 
Timothy F. Lewis said:
Really, the guy wants to go to 220!? You’ll have a dance floor! It’s a deck, it’s going to get stained, it’s going to be in the weather, that seems pretty extreme to me.
Is he charging by the hour or bidding the job??
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That was my thought as well, with 220 (or even 120) it could get quite slippery if you don't leave some roughness to the surface.
 
This is what the “Professionals” recommended :
IMG_1128.jpeg
I’m planning on a brush scrub and another coat before winter.
It’s really holding up very well in my situation.
 
He said he MIGHT have to use 220 to help correct some of damage I did with my pressure washer 😳 Like I said wood is NOT my strong suit. I trust him. He did really nice work on the bathroom ceiling so, I'm good. I asked him about the floor sander and he said nope. Too aggressive. He's going to use a handheld "jitterbug" IIRC what he called it.
He said chemical stripper works but it can be dangerous to use.
 
LMichaels said:
He said he MIGHT have to use 220 to help correct some of damage I did with my pressure washer 😳 Like I said wood is NOT my strong suit. I trust him. He did really nice work on the bathroom ceiling so, I'm good. I asked him about the floor sander and he said nope. Too aggressive. He's going to use a handheld "jitterbug" IIRC what he called it.
He said chemical stripper works but it can be dangerous to use.
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I watched a neighbor use a jitterbug (orbital) sander to strip his deck, it took him a couple weeks at 2-3 hours a day... i.e. those vibrations wreak havoc with your hands and extremities. Indeed, there's no 'easy' way to strip a finish, and I certainly understand the hesitation to use chemistry.
 
Well he said he's done lots of decks like this. He gave me a quote of $500 to get it stripped, prepped and everything but the spindles refinished. I told him I was really not worried about them so much. So he's doing all the large flat surfaces. Stairs, main deck, flat part of railings, and fascia boards. I am buying the stain. And bought the best Pittsburg oil stain. Not cheap stuff either. Darn close to $50 gallon!
 
LMichaels said:
Well he said he's done lots of decks like this. He gave me a quote of $500 to get it stripped, prepped and everything but the spindles refinished. I told him I was really not worried about them so much. So he's doing all the large flat surfaces. Stairs, main deck, flat part of railings, and fascia boards. I am buying the stain. And bought the best Pittsburg oil stain. Not cheap stuff either. Darn close to $50 gallon!
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I don't know the size of your deck, but that sounds like a good deal for the work involved! I use the same stain (TWP) as Timothy F Lewis.
 
timothy said:
See what he says on filling the screw holes and knots with exterior filler or Bondo.
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Honestly I am not gonna be that fussy. All I am worried about is the deck is protected. During spring/summer and early fall I keep an outdoor rug on it. We like having it "feel" like a home extension. So during those seasons 80% of the deck is not seen. The other 40% of the year usually it's snowing or unused completely. Remember this is north central IL Basically State line to Cheese country. Almost arctic circle :D
 
timothy said:
That traps moisture so you should remove it or move it and let the deck breathe.
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I do. take it off (try to before a rain) and at end of season I clean it and store it inside. Have not seen any ill effects. It has no backing so it does breathe. Water (if I get rain on it) goes right through it and it's usually dry in a day.
 
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