Deck issues


 
LMichaels

LMichaels

TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
So I want to stain my deck again. But I am having REAL problems due to I believe bad application of the previous oil stain used by Sikkens Products. I'm sure it's good stuff just badly applied by the drug addled guy I hired. So Menards recommended a Pittsburg oil stain (supposedly their best it's sure expensive) and the deck cleaner noted. But I'm not having luck. I think it needs to be completely stripped and done over. Thoughts?

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I would think a power washing would strip it down pretty good along with the cleaner, but maybe you did that already?
 
When the guy stained it, was that the first time those boards had ever been stained? If those were 'virgin' deck boards, it's generally recommended to allow pressure-treated lumber/boards to weather (dry) for 3 to 9 months, so as to ensure the stain or sealer will 'take' (absorb) properly and evenly.

If you're doing routine maintenance and resealing/staining, and it's just faded, then it's best to stick with the same brand and reapply every 3-4 years (or whatever the manufacturer suggests). Otherwise, if it's peeling or blotchy, then stripping the boards might be required to do it right.
 
It was stained the first time after a little over a year in. Then 3 years ago, in the 7 years it's been built. The same stain was used both times. Oil based made by Sikkens (which I understand was bought out by Pittsburg Paints).
The photos seen are the result, of using the Pittsburg cleaner pictured and my 3200 PSI gas powered power washer. And the old stain seems to be a thick, wax like coating
 
Okay, I didn't realize you had already used a power washer on it, I thought those were photos of the existing condition. Since you've started to strip a portion of the deck with the power washer, you'll probably have to forge ahead and strip the entire thing, but might need a stronger product than deck cleaner (although that does contain bleach and caustic soda). Exercise caution with a 3200 psi power washer, since using an incorrect nozzle could damage the wood fibers. Obviously the wood will also require several days of drying before proceeding with any stain or sealer.

Pittsburgh (PPG) has an advice section and an interactive 'wood care planner' to help determine the best course of action, based on your answers to some questions about your deck, condition, etc. Here's the link:

https://woodcareplanner.pittsburghpaintsandstains.com/en-us/welcome

Hopefully someone else has advice on re-staining treated lumber. My experience is mostly with northern white cedar, which is more forgiving.
 
While the look of oil based transparent stains on PT pine look more like furniture than base lumber, they are difficult to maintain and lose that refreshed, natural look and water repellency quickly. They are also mold magnets... especially anything Linseed oil based. Also, the oil based stains are becoming increasingly scarce as the industry is improving water based stains. In fact, several states have banned the sale of oil based stains... Michigan is one.
It's for those reasons I switched to solid acrylic stains years ago. You can lay acrylic over oil based but not vice versa...without completely stripping the old finish off completely. It looks like you need a stripper, not a cleaner...and it's a flat out nasty job.
Staining the deck at our beach house is an annual necessity, at least the deck boards themselves. Vertical surfaces like the balusters and railings can go 2-4 years.
Solid acrylic just simply holds up better in a tough environment.
 
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LMichaels said:
So I want to stain my deck again. But I am having REAL problems due to I believe bad application of the previous oil stain used by Sikkens Products. I'm sure it's good stuff just badly applied by the drug addled guy I hired. So Menards recommended a Pittsburg oil stain (supposedly their best it's sure expensive) and the deck cleaner noted. But I'm not having luck. I think it needs to be completely stripped and done over. Thoughts?

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@Mark-Anaheim
Is an expert on Wood finishing of all types and maybe he could share some input here
 
Rip up the wood and throw it out. Go composite. There are brands very similar to Trex at less cost per board foot that are available at a local lumberyard that serves pros if you still have one in your area

Only maintenance is pressure washing boards that don’t get sun.
 
I go to the oldest paint dealer in the county, I used an oil based product and brushed the first coat last fall, this spring, washed with basic dish soap and water (per my cabinet makers recommendation) and gave it a second coat using a roller and will retouch with a third before winter.
One year “cure out” again, same recommendation source, and it’s really looking pretty good.
Right now, it’s filthy, fallen flower petals, leaves, normal “under a walnut tree” scum so, not sharing pictures,
 
Timothy F. Lewis said:
I go to the oldest paint dealer in the county, I used an oil based product and brushed the first coat last fall, this spring, washed with basic dish soap and water (per my cabinet makers recommendation) and gave it a second coat using a roller and will retouch with a third before winter.
One year “cure out” again, same recommendation source, and it’s really looking pretty good.
Right now, it’s filthy, fallen flower petals, leaves, normal “under a walnut tree” scum so, not sharing pictures,
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Do you mind sharing the brand & product and who "the oldest paint dealer in the country" might be ? (Google gave multiple answers).
 
Sorry that should read county not, country! I’ve been cleaning the garage all bloody day! I am very happy with the folks at Douglas and Sons, I’ve worked with those people for probably going on 50 years!
Benjamin Moore, a couple of others, I’ve got a pic on another device which does not speak to this one. I’ll open that another time, I’m having a hard time keeping the matchsticks in my eyelids!
 
BPratt said:
Rip up the wood and throw it out. Go composite. There are brands very similar to Trex at less cost per board foot that are available at a local lumberyard that serves pros if you still have one in your area

Only maintenance is pressure washing boards that don’t get sun.
Click to expand...
That's a laugh right now. We just replaced it 7 years ago. Ain't gonna happen
 
BPratt said:
Rip up the wood and throw it out. Go composite. There are brands very similar to Trex at less cost per board foot that are available at a local lumberyard that serves pros if you still have one in your area

Only maintenance is pressure washing boards that don’t get sun.
Click to expand...
Composite deck is no miracle product. I've got two different brands in place on the front and back steps of our beach house. The back is a more rough surface that feels safe to walk on wet...but attracts mold even though it faces south and the sun hits it every day. The front is Veranda from Home Depot. While it has not faded in 12 years, it's slippery when wet and gets hot enough to fry an egg on it in summer when the sun hits it for a few hours every day. It's not the perfect solution yet.
 
So I spoke with the guy I hired to do paint work in my master bath and he said best thing is for him to get it power sanded beginning with 80 grit, then down to 120 and he'll see how that looks and if necessary hit it with 220
 
Jay D,

You've touched on most of the reasons we've avoided composite decking. I'll opine that the notion of it being more 'sustainable' than wood is a fallacy, as there are a lot of VOC's, recycled plastics, and off-gassing involved with it. I've always observed it to be either slippery, hot, or odorous.
 
LMichaels said:
So I spoke with the guy I hired to do paint work in my master bath and he said best thing is for him to get it power sanded beginning with 80 grit, then down to 120 and he'll see how that looks and if necessary hit it with 220
Click to expand...

That is certainly the most direct and aggressive way to strip it. Can I assume he's talking about using a floor sander (aka drum sander) typically used for prepping and refinishing hardwood flooring? Might want to consider what could happen with the deck screws...
 
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