My cutting board has developed an interesting aroma, kind of a cross between BBQ, spices, vegetables, etc. Anyone got any tips to get rid of this? Its a wooden Boos and was a gift from my wife, so I'm not really interested in parting ways with it. No matter how much I scrub it, the smell is still there. Thanks.
Cutting Board
- Thread starter Dean C.
- Start date
John Mason
TVWBB All-Star
Have you tried a bleach solution?
If it were mine and all else failed, I'd take it out to the shop and sand the surface, re-oil it and start fresh again.
If it were mine and all else failed, I'd take it out to the shop and sand the surface, re-oil it and start fresh again.
K Kruger
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Apply vinegar then hydrogen peroxide (or vice versa, don't mix them together first), allow to sit for a few minutes, top with Kosher then scrub the hell out of it. If that works, let it dry then finish with food safe mineral oil or a mineral oil/beeswax combo--my favorite. If it doesn't, sand and apply the oil or oil/wax combo.
Tom Raveret
TVWBB Pro
I love wood cutting boards but AB was saying he uses a diferent one or raw meats and cooked meats. Is that really necessary or overkill???
K Kruger
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
I can't stand cutting on plastic so I don't use plastic boards, though they can conveniently load into the dishwasher. A separate board for raw meats isn't a bad idea. I use 4 boards regularly and do not always differentiate. The vinegar and H2O2 I suggested above will kill the nasties. If you keep them in spray bottles it's pretty convenient. Don't pre-mix them as the synergy diminishes.
I hate the cutting on plastic as well, but I do use one for prep, trimming, etc. All of the finished slicing/pulling/chopping is done on wood. The smell I am experiencing is only on the large wooden one though, the smaller one is fine. I am going to quit chopping onions and garlic on the large one.
K Kruger
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
If you use the vinegar/H2O2/Kosher thing regularly the salt will help keep the finish smooth but periodically I give all my wood stuff (boards, salad bowls, wooded spoons, etc.) a light hand-sanding and a beeswax/oil finish. It really prolongs the life of my stuff. In between the full gamut with all my wood, I'll do the boards alone without the hand-sanding, but after a thorough cleaning and drying, every so often. I recommend this product; the beeswax in the mix will create a tougher surface than oil alone.
K McCarthy
TVWBB Fan
I just saw something on TV the other day (don't remember where) they said Kosher salt sprinkled on the board and rub with a lemon half.
Haven't tried it, but it sounds good to me.
Kev
Haven't tried it, but it sounds good to me.
Kev
Having had the same issue, I found from a woodworker friend of mine to *not* sand the board. It seems the additional oil we (the foodies) put on the board isn't a good thing for the sanding. It clogs in both the sand paper and the wood pores.
He recommends "scraping" or planing the board to remove enough material. My dad made my board, walnut and hard maple, and I was extremely anxious to submit it to a planer. We knocked off between 1/64 and 1/32, reseasoned with block oil, and I've never been happier about it.
I've now quit putting those types of spices on my board. Onions, garlic, fresh herbies, and the like seem to come out with kosher salt and the other half of a lemon. Squeeze the juice, then apply the salt, then scrub with the open lemon face. Works for me.
As for the spices, I've graduated to a tub with sides for raw prep. After cooking, as much as I hate food-grade plastic, I use a large heavy board for cutting, mutilating, and generally "standing and snarfing" anything that's been smoked, grilled, or otherwise tortured in my metal chambers.
Now that I reserve the board for the less caustic materials, I'm on year 5 without a wood reduction session (through regular cleanings). My board still looks like it did from the planing and re-oiling.
Hope this helps ....
He recommends "scraping" or planing the board to remove enough material. My dad made my board, walnut and hard maple, and I was extremely anxious to submit it to a planer. We knocked off between 1/64 and 1/32, reseasoned with block oil, and I've never been happier about it.
I've now quit putting those types of spices on my board. Onions, garlic, fresh herbies, and the like seem to come out with kosher salt and the other half of a lemon. Squeeze the juice, then apply the salt, then scrub with the open lemon face. Works for me.
As for the spices, I've graduated to a tub with sides for raw prep. After cooking, as much as I hate food-grade plastic, I use a large heavy board for cutting, mutilating, and generally "standing and snarfing" anything that's been smoked, grilled, or otherwise tortured in my metal chambers.
Now that I reserve the board for the less caustic materials, I'm on year 5 without a wood reduction session (through regular cleanings). My board still looks like it did from the planing and re-oiling.
Hope this helps ....
chris lewis
New member
If it smells like BBQ and spices leave it alone.
Steve Petrone
TVWBB Platinum Member
If you are down to your last resort...
Years ago, I discovered, quite by accident, how to cure fish hands-that wonderful odor after handing and cleaning fish. It is very simple and equally effective. No I do not know the science nor have I heard of others using this technique but it does work.
On the shore of a fresh water lake, reach down in the water and get a handful of muck and mud. Rub your hands as if scrubbing with soap. After a good scrubbing, rinse and smile. The fish odor is gone! I bet it will work for a stinking board. At the worst it won't hurt and sure beats shaving down a board. Hope this works.
Years ago, I discovered, quite by accident, how to cure fish hands-that wonderful odor after handing and cleaning fish. It is very simple and equally effective. No I do not know the science nor have I heard of others using this technique but it does work.
On the shore of a fresh water lake, reach down in the water and get a handful of muck and mud. Rub your hands as if scrubbing with soap. After a good scrubbing, rinse and smile. The fish odor is gone! I bet it will work for a stinking board. At the worst it won't hurt and sure beats shaving down a board. Hope this works.
Konrad Haskins
R.I.P. 3/23/2014
I agree with jimbo.
A dough cutter is great for scraping the build up off a wooden board.
The Montana Knife Works is hit and miss. Thier dough cutter and scrapper is $3 at Business Costcos not to be confused with regular Costcos is one of the hits.
A dough cutter is great for scraping the build up off a wooden board.
The Montana Knife Works is hit and miss. Thier dough cutter and scrapper is $3 at Business Costcos not to be confused with regular Costcos is one of the hits.
K Kruger
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
You're right. A dough scraper is great for scraping buil-up off a board.
But there's no reason that a quality board can't be used for everything you do if you wish. Obviously you don't want to let meat, fowl, or fish juices sit on a board all afternoon. But if you take care of your board, cleaning in well (and drying it) after use, and keeping it oiled, there's no reason to avoid using it with some food items. I've had a couple of mine over 25 years and have used boards older than me.
For badly damaged boards a planer is a good suggestion. But not all of us have easy access to one. A full sanding of a badly damaged board, or light periodic sanding of an undamaged board might clog the sandpaper, but sandpaper is relatively cheap. Clogging of wood pores shouldn't be a concern. It will allow the oil/wax/finish to penetrate more evenly. It's what they do when they manufacture boards in the first place.
But there's no reason that a quality board can't be used for everything you do if you wish. Obviously you don't want to let meat, fowl, or fish juices sit on a board all afternoon. But if you take care of your board, cleaning in well (and drying it) after use, and keeping it oiled, there's no reason to avoid using it with some food items. I've had a couple of mine over 25 years and have used boards older than me.
For badly damaged boards a planer is a good suggestion. But not all of us have easy access to one. A full sanding of a badly damaged board, or light periodic sanding of an undamaged board might clog the sandpaper, but sandpaper is relatively cheap. Clogging of wood pores shouldn't be a concern. It will allow the oil/wax/finish to penetrate more evenly. It's what they do when they manufacture boards in the first place.