Clay pot and temp control


 
C

chris vukasinovic

New member
I recently purchased a 14" pot from Walmart. This is my second year BBQing and I love anything that gets rid of the water pan. Little does my neighbor know that he's got about 20 gallons of juice under his deck!

Anyway, I've been having problems keeping the temp steady with the clay pot. It keeps it steady for a while then I get a big spike. My last smoke I think it got steady with 0% 0% 10%, but anymore and it'd jump up quick.

Anyone else having this problem?
 
I start the minion method with just 8 to 10 briqs. when she hits about 200 i close all the bottom vents and adjust as needed. usually hangs at about 250. cant get it lower, but that seems to work for me.
 
i've never seen this posted but I personally believe (for me) burrying wood CHUNKS, not chips, cause spikes, I've really tested this for myself and I truly think that. If by chance you might do that, too, you should give it a shot. If you dont bury them then nevermind, if you do, then you should really try that, its worth a shot, they last longer and steadier for me on the top of the coals anyway. I use a saucer and It seems steady as long as I don't let the temp. get ahead of me early on. I'de get it up nice and slow cause it seems really sensitive w/ no water in use. I close all vents but one and control w/ one, and i'm happy so far. I have to say I used just foiled pan w/ nothing before and worked fine also, I, myself think its all just more sensitive w/ no water. Hope this helps good luck to you. -Dan
 
I would agree with Jerry. We've used the pots for a while now and if I shut all bottom vents down when the top grate hits about 200 or so, we can maintain about 240-250 all night.

Only exception is chicken, I cook that with just a foiled water pan, no liquid, no clay saucer
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">My last smoke I think it got steady with 0% 0% 10%, but anymore and it'd jump up quick. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Chris, when I used the clay pot I could run my stoker for hours at 235 with only one vent open 1/8 of the way. Depends on how "drafty" your WSM is. Sounds like from the above quote you've figured out where your "steady point" is.
 
I'm thinking Chris might have a small air leak that didn't have a big effect when using water previously.

Chris, check your door and your middle to bottom section for any gaps or air leaks. It's easier to do with a good red hot fire at night, as you can see the red glow coming through any gaps.

I use that same 14" clay pot set inside the stock water pan. I usually end up with 1 vent fully closed, and 2 vents at 10-12% and it will run 235-250 for a good 8 hours before I need to start opening them to maintain temp.

LOL@ your neighbors deck!

Todd
 
You have to keep your eye on the temp onm the way up with the clay saucer...I like to use it alot in the winter or if I'm doin Butts or Briskets. When smoking ribs I like to stick with H2O..

Ron
 
Quick question for you guys using the clay saucer.

I've done a bit of searching, and it looks like when using the clay pot, you still foil the bottom side of water pan, and then foil the entire clay pot and set it in the pan? Is this correct? Or do you foil the water pan top and bottom, and then the same with the clay saucer?

What about foil the clay saucer (don't use the water pan at all), and just set the clay saucer on the water pan ledges?

Also, I stopped by Lowe's today and could only find 12" or 16", would 12" work fine as well?
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dan H.:
i've never seen this posted but I personally believe (for me) burrying wood CHUNKS, not chips, cause spikes, -Dan </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

For me burrying wood chunks does not seem necessary because even after long cooks I still have semi burned chunks left over. I do however burry some chips after my first layer of K.

Chris, First off, I hope your neighbor dosent catch on to your little tricks, LMFAO
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I dumped many frozen pork fat/water frisbees in the ally this winter
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But have gone waterless since it quit freezing.

Secondly, In my experience, my 14 inch clay saucer does tend to run a bit hotter then water with the same vent settings. As said before its all about catching the temps on the way up. This is a staple to WSM heat control. Also, durring my cooks I always have the 2 vents into the wind completely closed, and control the temp with only one vent, dosent seem to hurt anything.

Brandon
 
Mitch,

I don't foil the bottom of the water pan, the little bit of charcoal / wood smoke that gets on it wipes right off, so I don't bother. I set the clay base inside the water pan, then just foil the top and half way down the sides.

If you have the brinkmann charcoal pan (using it as a bigger water pan), the 12" clay base will fit nicely inside of that water pan. Only the 14" fits real snug inside the stock water pan.

Todd
 
I am lazy, so I just stick the clay saucer inside the water pan and foil the whole thing. Then when the cooking is done, I can just throw the foil away for easy clean-up.
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My temp control became a lot more effective when I taped the door shut w/ aluminum tape. I burn lump and it's very sensitive to air supply.

No matter how tight a seal you think your door has, it doesn't.

If you're running waterless, you'll have no need for the door anyway.
 
i've found that, too, Brandon A. I wonder if the temp. spikes were just quincidence? not sure but I really dont seem to have that with them on top. yes they do last most if not all of the cook for me as well. -dan
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike A.:
My temp control became a lot more effective when I taped the door shut w/ aluminum tape. No matter how tight a seal you think your door has, it doesn't.
If you're running waterless, you'll have no need for the door anyway. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree completely. I also sealed my access door, and have been very happy with the results. It is just another place for oxygen to get in if the wind picks up, which will cause your temps to rise. To me, it just seems that to get a large spike, you must be getting alot of air in quickly, maybe enough to actually cause your wood to catch fire. As far as messing with the coals, it is better to get your meat out of the way first anyway to avoid ash floating up IMO.

Brandon
 
I had the same problem with a late cook spike. I added sand to the saucer and stability was much better, more thermal mass = more temp. stability, matter of physics.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I do have the top of the access door taped, but I think I'll tape the whole thing. You guys are right, there's no need for it anymore.

I think I'll try to close two vents and use one for control. I'm going to do a 9lbs brisket tomorrow for my brother visiting from San Fran.

He told me that San Fran has no decent or worthy BBQ places. So I'm going to smoke him up some KC style brisket.

I hope 9lbs is enough for him. The rest of us may have to eat the sides. hehehe
 
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