Airflow comparison of HeaterMeter blower/servo operation modes


 

Bryan Mayland

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My printer seems to be behaving itself again, so I was able to finish printing an Adapt-a-Damper. I created a tunnel piece as well to hold an anemometer for air flow testing. I made the tunnel longer because the blower actually generates a magnetic field that triggers the hall sensors in the anemometer and creates false readings. The output of the tunnel is 881mm^2 and the input is 845mm^2. The HeaterMeter was set to 225F and the temperature allowed to stabilize before switching to manual mode.
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The first test I did was with the standard configuration, Blower and Servo are directly linked to PID output and run from 0% to 100% across the board. At the initial 5%, there's a big bump up, but after that, there's a relatively straight line up to maximum output.
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I then tried to do Servo Ceiling 50% + Fan floor 50%. That is, run the servo up to PID 50% at which point it will be fully open, then turn the blower on at 51% where it will be on at 2% all the way up to 100% at PID 100%. Unfortunately, the anemometer can't go below 2.5 kph without stalling out, and the convection airflow was not enough to reach 2.5 kph so everything from 0% to 50% read as 0%. As soon as the blower kicked in, it would register at 10.6 kph. I decided to switch to using a mass airflow sensor instead.
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The mass airflow sensor heats a PTC and records how much current it takes to keep the PTC at that temperature (looks to be around 58C) and the current required is proportional to the air flowing across the PTC. This is sensitive enough to tell I am breathing out of my mouth from a couple feet away. I fitted the sensor to my tunnel and reran the two tests. The units here (air mass) are different from the first set of tests (wind speed).
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Around PID 20% (damper 40%), the convection airflow levels out so effectively PID 20%->50% are the same output. Then at 51% BAM huge spike up. Watching the HeaterMeter try to control this is fun because 50% isn't enough to maintain 225F but 51% is way too much. Comparatively, a fully open damper with the fan off allows less airflow than a fully closed damper with the fan running at 1%. Changing the Max Fan Speed does nothing because 1% blower output is the low end-- changing the top end has no effect.

It is almost like we could use a mode where the servo goes PID 0% -> X% then at X% the damper closes completely and the blower kicks in, and the two ramp up together after that. The disadvantage to that would be that as it crosses that point the servo will go from 100% to 0% so going back and forth across that boundary the servo will look like a crazy person, and the large difference between no blower (~0.6) and closed but with the blower (~2.1) is a large enough step up that it is very possible it would just wobble from one side of the threshold to the other.
 
Great testing Bryan. From the data, it seems to me that the damper opening is oversized, and the blower has problems "coming online" so to speak. This is where I have to shamelessly plug my MicroDamper for comparison sake. The MD was designed around running a UDS but also works great on my Akorn. When using a UDS the pit will run excellently off of one 1" ball valve manually when the pit is up to temperature. From a design standpoint, this tells that my maximum opening should be roughly equivalent to the cross sectional surface (CSA) area of a 1" pipe, and since the unit has a blower I don't need to worry about the other 2 ball valves I have on my pit because the blower can provide all the air required to get it up to operating temperatures. Now that the CSA is smaller and better suited for the pit, each increment of movement is more precise. To address the blower "coming online" problem, I blame this on the design of blowers them selves. Blowers are designed to move dirty, heavy air - or to push through restrictive systems. We are providing clean air through a relatively obstruction free object, the required static pressure of the fan/blower does not need to be sooo high. An axial fan like I've specified for the MicroDamper provides the proper amount of volume and pressure to run a kamado/kettle/UDS/cabinet/etc. It also doesn't seem to have problems with high output when starting up. I've even joked with WBegg, that it's "the more gentle way to bbq". I'd like to send you a MicroDamper for testing. If you are interested, shoot me an email: microdamper@gmail.com.
 
I've been running my PBC with my FlatDamper and no fan at all. It'll hold 350ish with no problems. 375 is kinda pushing it if I don't start it super hot with lotsa lit coals. 225-275 is easy.

It doesn't have the ability to ramp temp up quick though so I basically have to get it started how I want from the get go. Usually it's not an issue though. I'm either cooking low and slow, or hot and fast.

The fan creates a whoooole ton of restriction. Try your MAF sensor with the fan not in the body and see what the air flow results in.
 
The fan creates a whoooole ton of restriction. Try your MAF sensor with the fan not in the body and see what the air flow results in.

I have not found this to be a problem. I must admit that the one time I tried on my UDS I was running it completely different than I normally do... lump instead of briquettes, and the PID settings required were obviously completely different than my norm. Since that cook wasn't going well I defaulted to turn the fan off and set the HM to run off servo/damper only where I told the HM to run XX% open remotely. I had no problems keeping temp around 40% open with no fan. I could understand the possibility of a blower style damper having some trouble though since it has to take a 90* turn and run through all those fins. The axial fan allows a whole lot more air through it than a blower.
 
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@SteveCK: I'll definitely do a microdamper test as well. I can print up my own, although I appreciate your offer. The fan will be in the next Mouser order I place, although I already have a few different models of Sunon 40x40x20 fans here in my kit already.

@Benjamin Thibault: Good idea on trying it without the fan in place as well, I'll add that to my next set of tests. I do really love your FlatDamper though because of how it replicates the standard operating mode of the BGE's slide vent. I recently saw someone else who had made a linear actuator out of a 9G servo on hackaday and I thought it might have been you refining the concept!

I will note that I had my Egg in its normal "HeaterMeter" setup, with the vent on the top almost completely closed, just to keep everything the same as my normal use case. I admit the deck is stacked against natural convection in this case, although since my egg's accident, it doesn't seal quite as well and has a hard time regulating the temperature unless it is mostly closed up. I should have also tried it with the top vent open to see if there is a larger damper-only airflow available in this configuration.
 
@Benjamin Thibault: Good idea on trying it without the fan in place as well, I'll add that to my next set of tests. I do really love your FlatDamper though because of how it replicates the standard operating mode of the BGE's slide vent. I recently saw someone else who had made a linear actuator out of a 9G servo on hackaday and I thought it might have been you refining the concept!

I will note that I had my Egg in its normal "HeaterMeter" setup, with the vent on the top almost completely closed, just to keep everything the same as my normal use case. I admit the deck is stacked against natural convection in this case, although since my egg's accident, it doesn't seal quite as well and has a hard time regulating the temperature unless it is mostly closed up. I should have also tried it with the top vent open to see if there is a larger damper-only airflow available in this configuration.

These tests are perfect timing. I've been wondering why there hasn't been much more work done on damper only controllers. I imagine that the 1" hole is pretty restricting when it comes to damper only.

Here is an idea I started drawing up the other day for my BGE, I was thinking I'd make it out of some sheet metal
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... That is until I found SteveCK's microdamper for cheap, I'm going to give that a go first for my low & slows.
 
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I imagine that the 1" hole is pretty restricting when it comes to damper only.

For fan on, then damper only 1" is plenty (see explanation on that in my post above). I wouldn't recommend running a UDS with the MicroDamper without a fan to start it though, but you might be able to do it if you started it with a lot of charcoal. I have yet to test it on my Akorn as damper only, though I think it can be done since my Akorn runs at pretty low (~10-15%) fan output.
 
What I mean to say is that the 1" opening seems limiting in ramp ability and higher heat cooks (without a fan). In my experience on the BGE, using nothing but the stock dampers, if I open the bottom damper all the way I can go from ~200F to ~700F before I have time to go get my beer! No fan required. Bryan had a hard time ramping up temps in damper only mode with limited opening area, from my experience I know that with simply a large enough opening surface area that I can reach rocket engine temps, and reach them quickly. ( I know this only applies to certain designs of cookers )
 
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I experimented with a similar style damper that could operate with or without the fan a while back, but with the latest firmware the servo moves and then powers down so that design (with the fan on the moving part) wouldn't work because gravity would pull the damper out of position when the servo is powered down. Not sure if the mass of the moving portion you have there will be enough to make the damper slide out of place when the servo powers down or not, but that is something to think about.
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These are some awesome tests Bryan, and I like the fact you performed them in a real world situation. I would like to see a test with your top Damper on your egg open a bit more to see how it effects the natural draw of the lower damper without the fan.
 
I printed up and assembled a MicroDamper today to do another round of testing, but the new batch of 5x MG90S servos I just bought appear to be crazy. When you plug them in they move all over the place +/-30 degrees and occasionally will spin all the way to one end and jam up. It may sound funny but none of these have the little "QC" sticker on the bottom. I opened one up and it all looks good inside, checked the signal on the oscilloscope and there was the standard pulse variation that works fine with other servos so I am a bit worried that these are completely unusable with HeaterMeter. More airflow tests will have to wait until I get some new servos or can figure out what is wrong with these. One heated up to 140C while jittering about. That does not seem normal!

EDIT: For my own reference, the working servos have YT2462B driver chips and the nonworking servos use AA51880 driver chips.
 
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Are the MG90S and SG90S the same footprint/case? Only difference being the metal gears?

I also had a bad experience with an MG90S, same thing rotated sporadically, chattered like crazy. Got a new one (read 4 to have some spares on hand) from a different supplier and it worked fine. Would definitely be willing to go the route of the regular plastic gears for better QC.

Bryan - How would you tell which driver chip would be on the servo? Is it stamped on the servo control board?
 
The MG90 and SG90 are not interchangeable, the SG90 has a shorter "riser" on it. But yes, the SG90 has plastic gears and the MG has metal.
 
Bryan - How would you tell which driver chip would be on the servo? Is it stamped on the servo control board?
Yup! If you pull the 4 screws out on the bottom, there's a 16 pin SOIC chip and in the case both my varieties of driver, they were clearly labeled with part numbers and logos.

Guess tomorrow I will print a SG90 top and swap it out! I'd be happy to go back to the cheaper version... well now I want to take apart one of those too and see what chip is inside. ...

And we're back! My SG90s have AA51880 driver chips and a giant through-hole capacitor on them that the MG90s don't have. Are the metal gears for the MG90 actually so expensive that the knockoffs cut corners in the electronics, like not using the right capacitor? Seems odd to end up with a more reliable and cheaper model by doing so.

EDIT: And of course my SG90s work, they have a QC sticker on them too!
 
I never understood the reasoning behind metal gears in these servos, they dont have that high of torque ratings. Plastic injection is more reliable and inexpensive. As far as the circuitry, thats not in my field of knowledge - just plain terrible with that. But I'm going to say it again, SG90s for the win!
 
And we're back! My SG90s have AA51880 driver chips and a giant through-hole capacitor on them that the MG90s don't have. Are the metal gears for the MG90 actually so expensive that the knockoffs cut corners in the electronics, like not using the right capacitor? Seems odd to end up with a more reliable and cheaper model by doing so.

EDIT: And of course my SG90s work, they have a QC sticker on them too!

Gotta be that QC sticker!
 
Here are results with the MicroDamper except I do not have the fan that Steve uses, so I used another 40x40x20 but it is only rated at 4.86 CFM so the "with blower" numbers will be higher in a standard build.
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The normal numbers are with the BGE lid fully closed up, the +Lid are with the star vent fully open (but the flappy lid in place). I couldn't really test the AdaptADamper without the blower in it, because the blower is hardwired into the ethernet jack and the top part won't go back on with wires hanging out. The damper-only measurements are pretty hard to make reliably too. When a gentle breeze blows for a second, the number jumps up 20% then goes 5-10% below the value then settles back in.

I messed around with the servo code this morning too, and came up with a method so the PWM output was +/-0.5us consistently (normally there 0-4us jitter with the occasional spike up to 11us) and that MG90s servo would sit there fine for a few minutes then completely freak out for a few seconds, then go back to quiet. When it is moving between positions, it jerks around all over the place. I also tried running it directly from the 3.3V servo pulse directly from the microcontroller with a short wire and it didn't like that either.
 
For fan on, then damper only 1" is plenty (see explanation on that in my post above). I........
Steve, I have one of your Micro-Dampers (on a Weber Kettle grill). With your comment above, are you stating to run micro-damper opposite to what I think most people do? (open damper to full for the first 50% and then operate fan for the last 50%)

If so, using your comment above in red.....for the first 50% requested, to run the fan up to 100% with no damper and then the top 50% to open the damper?

Maybe Bryan can run a test this way to see the results? I'm wondering if that would eliminate the larger bump in air volume at the 50% mark. Or, maybe starting to open the damper at something less than 50%....
 
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Bryan, if you extrapolate what the airflow would be with the fan I spec it looks as though the bump at 50% would a bit softer.

RKHanso, I think you may have taken what I said out of context. Currently I've only been running the MicroDamper in the classic way. Meaning the fan and damper operate at the same percentage. I've been quite busy and have not done any other testing so far - MD owners are welcome to help :). What I was referring to is the potential to operate the damper so that only the fan kicks on at startup or if you want to set the fan to turn on at PID output of 100% only - essentially running as a naturally aspirated pit except at startup to get the coals going, or to stoke when absolutely necessary.

Edit: I just remembered, although not a test, about a month ago I thought I'd give lump a try (I typically use briquettes) and needless to say the beginning of the cook wasn't pretty. It was pretty clear that I needed to change my PID/fan settings greatly to make it work. So I decided to turn the fan off and just set the damper to stay open at 50%. It went fairly well after that, I did end up playing with it around 30-60% to see if I could get it to land at a temp I wanted but decided not to d*ck around with it too much as I was quite busy that day. Overall it had 10-15* temp swings with a stationary damper setting but the brisket came out quite well. Thinking back now, I probably could have smoothed it out fiddling with the top damper.
 
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