Air leaks


 
H

Habanero Mike

TVWBB Member
Well with all this information I can not seem to find what I am looking for.

I compete in BBQ cook-offs and just converted over to the WSM 18-1/2" I use a stoker but like to cook at lower temps such as 235; i also do not like to snuff the top vent either 50% max.

At this point my recopies call for cooking at 235 but... my two WSM seem to want to cook higher and the only way to cook at 235 is to tape off my front door and even my hood to base section.

Does any one know of a nice method for sealing the hood and front access door i.e., felt, runner gasket, etc.?

Thanks,
Mike
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Glenn W:
Hey Mike,

Where are you measuring your target temp on the WSM? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hi Glen, I am measuring in the area of hood. I drilled a hole on either side of a cork and used this as an anchor for my stoker temp probe based off of my hood temp gage probe. I did this as one day I had a 40 degree variable from one side to an other using the grate clip that comes with the Stoker.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jon:
How many cooks on each? They tend to run a bit hot the first couple of smokes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have about 10 to 15 cooks. Big ones too like brisket butt together and four racks of ribs etc.
 
Have you ever noticed an extreme amount of smoke coming out of the sections or the door?

How long does it take for the temp to drop after you shut all 4 vents?

I use RO Lump with the foiled clay setup, if I minion with 1/2 chimney I can maintain temps from 200+ at grate and dome levels.

Once I close all 4 vents my temp drops below 150 within 30-45 min and cool by 1-1.5hrs.
 
Just to make sure we're covering everything;

How far down are you closing your bottom vents? I typically need to close them to where there is only a slit open on them.

Can you run us through how much fuel you're starting with, what kind of fuel you're using, etc.. Basically step by step process?
 
Not sure yet but this sounds like a test to see if my cooker is not up to standard is this correct?

I do see smoke coming out the hood rim (but some of this is due to stoker wires coming out and allowing a gap, this is why I want to use a gasket. If I could use felt like the green egg or some sort of soft payable gasket material this would help.

I also see smoke coming out of the access door so for this…I was thinking of using high temp silicone applied to the rim of the access door, line the cooker area by door with wax paper then shut the door and after it dries cut away the excess?

Instead of inventing the wheel, I though someone out there might have already found a good solution or method?
 
Well with stoker, the back two lower vents are closed all the way. The front vent is sealed and controlled by the stoker and when the fan is not blowing the trap door closes to keep it sealed.

Yes lots of smoke from trap door I did my best to remold it and pinched the latch lever to a tight snug fit as well. Please see my reply to Glenn for more detail; thanks.
 
I made a retrofit gasket mod earlier on. If you go buy the fireproof replacement gasket for the SMALL big green egg at your local Ace, you can cut it and stick it wherever you see leaks and it works great. I use it on my side access door, however I do not use it on the rim that the lid sits on b/c I found that I have trouble when i want to maintain higher temperatures do to the decreased airflow.
 
I bought some wood stove rope at Ace Hardware and glued it on my ECB lid with JB Weld. Costs about 5 bucks and works great - not a wisp of smoke and closing the vents kills the fire immediately.
4579239671_57242aedc6.jpg
 
In my experience with the 18-1/2 inch WSM and a Stoker, if you eliminate excessive air leaks you should be able to cook at 235 or 225. Take the time to tweak the fit of the door to get it as tight as you can. Measure the center section, lid, and base to be sure you don't have an "out of round" condition. If you do, carefully bend whatever needs to be bent to correct it. While the WSM doesn't need to be perfectly air tight, if you correct the leaks you can correct, you should have no trouble cooking at the temperature you are looking for. Also, after you finish, close off all the vents and the charcoal should go out in a relatively short time. Personally I don't see the need to use stove gaskets or sealants.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Larry D.:
In my experience with the 18-1/2 inch WSM and a Stoker, if you eliminate excessive air leaks you should be able to cook at 235 or 225. Take the time to tweak the fit of the door to get it as tight as you can. Measure the center section, lid, and base to be sure you don't have an "out of round" condition. If you do, carefully bend whatever needs to be bent to correct it. While the WSM doesn't need to be perfectly air tight, if you correct the leaks you can correct, you should have no trouble cooking at the temperature you are looking for. Also, after you finish, close off all the vents and the charcoal should go out in a relatively short time. Personally I don't see the need to use stove gaskets or sealants. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I agree, but for those who want a better seal around the lid, rope gasket is a cheap and effective way to do it.
 
I like this simple and cheap
icon_smile.gif
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Lew:
I bought some wood stove rope at Ace Hardware and glued it on my ECB lid with JB Weld. Costs about 5 bucks and works great - not a wisp of smoke and closing the vents kills the fire immediately.
4579239671_57242aedc6.jpg
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
Larry with your 225 cooks how much do you need to use the reduction of air on your top vent i.e., top vent shut to 50% of air flow or 10% of air flow?

Thanks,
Mike
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Larry D.:
In my experience with the 18-1/2 inch WSM and a Stoker, if you eliminate excessive air leaks you should be able to cook at 235 or 225. Take the time to tweak the fit of the door to get it as tight as you can. Measure the center section, lid, and base to be sure you don't have an "out of round" condition. If you do, carefully bend whatever needs to be bent to correct it. While the WSM doesn't need to be perfectly air tight, if you correct the leaks you can correct, you should have no trouble cooking at the temperature you are looking for. Also, after you finish, close off all the vents and the charcoal should go out in a relatively short time. Personally I don't see the need to use stove gaskets or sealants. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
B Mann Yep this is probable the easiest for the front door good idea, thanks!<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by B Mann:
I made a retrofit gasket mod earlier on. If you go buy the fireproof replacement gasket for the SMALL big green egg at your local Ace, you can cut it and stick it wherever you see leaks and it works great. I use it on my side access door, however I do not use it on the rim that the lid sits on b/c I found that I have trouble when i want to maintain higher temperatures do to the decreased airflow. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
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