Affixing 2 X 4 to brick wall ?


 
A couple of questions...
What is the depth of the tapcon? If it is only to the depth of the brick, you will only be relying not only on the tapcon fastener but also the fastening integrity of the brick to the sheathing (which, per typical install, is not designed to really hold anything but itself.)

Unless the tapcons are long enough and hitting a stud, it will never tighten satisfactorily. Perhaps if it penetrates to the sheathing (unless celotex) it might have some hold, but you will be opening up a potential water leak spot.

It seems as if the photo is the latch side and not the hinge side which means it is not holding any gate weight.

...if the integrity of the veneer is good, perhaps you back out the tapcons to remove the jamb and reattach them using a good construction adhesive. Perhaps also pooky the backside of the jamb itself to the brick.
 
The Tapcons are going into the mortar about an inch, if I get your question right. They're 2 3/4 length and subtract the 2 X 2 . The Tapcons are not going all the way past the brick.

Should I not be drilling into the mortar ?
 
Mortar (and brick) are soft compared to 3K concrete and may have the tendency to "blow-out" when expansion bolts are used. Tapcons rely on the threads to adhere, but they are generally used for concrete (hence the "con" in tapcon.) When tapcons are attempted in brick or mortar they will loosen up as you are experiencing because those materials are not considered structural.

The construction adhesive might provide that extra friction in hole that you need. It is a band-aid, but the adhesives are pretty strong.

How tall is the 2x4 jamb and how many fasteners are you using? Maybe add more at 6"OC horizontal as this will increase the number of contact points.
 
Generally when I have used tapcons, I buy the recommended bit. I do this for two reasons: first, it is the correct size (when used in concrete) to allow the bore to be correct diameter to the fastener being used. Plus, it is new and sharp when using it in a hammer drill (again, protocol for concrete.) I would not use too small of a diameter because it might break the brick when tightening... for this reason alone, the recommended one might be preferable.

Your qty=5 on a 6 footer is about 12" spacing which seems OK for a light load.

I am not familiar with that specific type of Loc-tite, but all you need to do is keep the threads snug within the bore, so it might be what you are needing.

I generally do not specify construction adhesive on projects as there are quite a few out there... that is generally in the realm of my Structural Engineer if required. Most often I call it out for floors/ sub-floors to joists along with screws on residential project and the brand and/or type is up to the Contractor.
 
That's most likely where I've gone wrong. I did not use the recommended bit and it wallowed out. And I don't have a hammer drill. I might have to go to lag shields, which was what was used originally by whoever built the fence.
 
Is it too late to consider mounting a 4x4 on a footing and having the gate latch to that? We have two gates, one like yours with a 2x4 affixed to the house and one with a 4x4 mounted to a footing. Guess which one gives me grief? The one affixed to the house was installed by my wife's late first husband. The other one I had put in by a handy man. It's on my to do list to redo the gate affixed to the house.
 
I don't think you will need a hammer drill since the brick is a lot softer than concrete.
the shields might be a better bet, but because of the size and softness, don't blow it out when installing those.

Brick is a tough material to fasten to.
 
Ditto what J Grotz said about setting the column in a footing.
Lynn, is setting a PT post in concrete viable in your situation?

I set 6x6 in Sono-tube for my hinge side and securely bolted the latch side to the framing. But I was on a deck , not surface grade. But the latch side was totally independent of the siding.
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Can confirm that a hammer drill isn’t required, but definitely recommended. I’ve done it both ways.
Brick and or mortar can be a challenge. Like Frank said, ideally you could just drill through the mortar and the sheeting and hit a stud. Judging by your pic, you have a decent chance of hitting a stud there. I would drill it with the bit recommended for the tapcon but long enough to hit stud and see. If you don’t hit a stud I would use a lead sleeve and lag bolt to anchor. Just my .02
 
BryanO said:
...~snip~ If you don’t hit a stud I would use a lead sleeve and lag bolt to anchor. Just my .02
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As long as the sheathing is not the old black celotex... Back in the day that was all too common and see it all the time on renovations.
Can't believe they used that stuff, but I guess the material were cheap enough to allow framers to let in diagonal 1x for shear!
 
Frank in Colorado said:
As long as the sheathing is not the old black celotex... Back in the day that was all too common and see it all the time on renovations.
Can't believe they used that stuff, but I guess the material were cheap enough to allow framers to let in diagonal 1x for shear!
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House built in 1980. I think they were using some kind of insulated board at that time, had a foil covering on one side. Energy efficiency was just taking root due to the energy crisis of the 70's. But they were cutting corners due to 16% mortgage rates. So I don't know.
 
Agreed that black celotex is trash. I have a combination of that and plywood sheeting. I can’t believe it was that much cheaper....
 
Is the hinge-side post of sufficient integrity? Does that one need any attention? The new gate will only be as good as the jamb to which it is fastened.
 
Frank in Colorado said:
Is the hinge-side post of sufficient integrity? Does that one need any attention? The new gate will only be as good as the jamb to which it is fastened.
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That post is old , but its solid. Doesn't have to support a lot of fence, there's maybe 4' till it reaches the corner.

I think I've rebuilt the gate twice.

I think I'm gonna try the 5/16 Tapcon, talk to my FIL about a hammer drill. Buy the Tapcon bit and use the Loctite adhesive. If that doesn't work then next would be securing a 4 X 4 to the sidewalk.
 
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