A new UDS is born


 
S

Steve Forwe

TVWBB Fan
Have beeen reading about the drum smoker. AKA, BDS. Big Drum Smoker. Web site.Big Drum Smokers | BBQ Smokers

These folks sell these for a lot on money. Found a few smoking forums where folks build these for a fraction on what the "Official" web site sells them for. Pretty simple. Instead of the BDS name, they call it the UDS, Ugly Drum Smoker. I found a local drum referb company, picked up a drum, some hardware, and a few other things and went to work. When it's all said and done, I will have less that 100.00 bucks in this thing. More info to come when the cooking begins. I know I have left a lot of info out, but I wanted to get the pics out as soon as I got finished. The first pic is out of order. Sorry. Questions???????????????
Pics
 
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Wow..........well, my dad could beat up his dad.
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Very creative and cool looking but I must say adding the water pan defeats the benefit of the open pit method of cooking. Having the juices drip down into the coal and flavoring the meat is the main reason for having a drum smoker. I don't see how his smoker can do that.

To be clear, I am referring to the linked UDS, not Steve's.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve Whiting:
Very creative and cool looking but I must say adding the water pan defeats the benefit of the open pit method of cooking. Having the juices drip down into the coal and flavoring the meat is the main reason for having a drum smoker. I don't see how his smoker can do that.

To be clear, I am referring to the linked UDS, not Steve's. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I must say I agree with you.
 
How does the ball valve/intake work? Is that what you are using for controlling your heat? What are some of the other options people have used for controlling heat?
 
Yes. The ball valve is for controlling the temp. There are two other 7/8 holes on the bottom as well. I use refrigerator magnets on those. Some folks use pipe nippples and caps. The theory is when the drum gets up to temp, you can close the other two off, and regulate the temp with the ball valve. I did a test burn the other day with 12 lbs of Kingsford comp, and got 18+ hrs out of it. Although, I had to have all three vents open to a degree to maintain 250.
 
Steve sorry I stole your thread by posting that German creation. Your UDS is equally as nice just more traditional. I'm going to model mine after yours. I have everything but the drum which is on my to do list today. My goal is to have it cost zero to $20.00 total. So far I have a Weber lid,three ball valves with attached floor plates,Tel-Tru thermometer,a rolling caster ring and two 22" grills all for nothing. My other goal is it has to be a no weld build so all can do it.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Robert Oleksak:
Steve sorry I stole your thread by posting that German creation. Your UDS is equally as nice just more traditional. I'm going to model mine after yours. I have everything but the drum which is on my to do list today. My goal is to have it cost zero to $20.00 total. So far I have a Weber lid,three ball valves with attached floor plates,Tel-Tru thermometer,a rolling caster ring and two 22" grills all for nothing. My other goal is it has to be a no weld build so all can do it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No problem. I really enjoyed that link. Awsome build, but too complex for my simple little brain. I am flattered that you want to do yours based on mine. Thanks. Keeping it under twenty bucks can be done. Mine cast me around one hundred. I went with all stainless steel hardware, and the basket cost were the most expensive items. When you look for a drum, make sure you take your lid with you. I have found that not all 55 gal. drums are exactly the same diameter. My Performer lid isn't even close to fitting. I am with you on the no weld build. The only thing welded on mine was the charcoal basket, and I wasn't the one that did it. Had a friend do it for me. Good luck on your build and keep us posted. Have a good one.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve Forwe:
Yes. The ball valve is for controlling the temp. There are two other 7/8 holes on the bottom as well. I use refrigerator magnets on those. Some folks use pipe nippples and caps. The theory is when the drum gets up to temp, you can close the other two off, and regulate the temp with the ball valve. I did a test burn the other day with 12 lbs of Kingsford comp, and got 18+ hrs out of it. Although, I had to have all three vents open to a degree to maintain 250. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Steve I am curious about the refrigerator magnets. Are you referring to the flexable ones like those found in the phone book with a business printed on it? If so, I am amazed they do not melt.
 
Yes. The flexable kind. I bought a sheet of magnet tape from the kraft section at Wally World. I would have thought they would melt as well, but many folks claim they las a long time and don't melt.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Chuck R:
I can’t figure how you get the charcoal in and clean the ashes out? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Bump.

I'd like to know too!

JimT
 
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