A bit of Genesis restoration fun


 
I was kind of wondering that as well. Star connectors are fine for single pieces, but putting a whole grill together with them seems like it would be prone to failure in the not too distant future. Star connectors do fine with side to side connections, but any lateral movement to the joints is going to cause issues down the road.
 
Bruce said:
Paul, that thickness is a measurement from the tubing that you use. Those star nuts are pretty adaptable to inner diameter of the tubes as long as it isn't unusually thick. If the tubing that you use is similar to the thickness of the regular frame steel bars, then the star nuts linked above by me or steve should work fine.

If you need me to measure the thickness of a factory Silver B frame tube, let me know and I will try to warm up my caliper enough to get a measurement for you.
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Bruce, if measuring is possible and not too much trouble then great, it would be appreciated. I am thinking that whatever the thickness measurement comes out at it maybe prudent to go with a heavier gauge, not sure but just a thought.
 
Paul Warner said:
Bruce, if measuring is possible and not too much trouble then great, it would be appreciated. I am thinking that whatever the thickness measurement comes out at it maybe prudent to go with a heavier gauge, not sure but just a thought.
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When I welded up my frames, I used heavier gauge stock. It allowed me to tap and thread the frame to attach items like the propane tank hanger without having to through bolt or use self tapping screws. However, anything that has to slip into the ends if the frame tubes might have to be trimmed down to fit. For me, it was the plastic plugs that I used in the lower left down tubes where the casters go in the newer frames. I don't know if the casters can be trimmed like the plugs. The heavier gauge will obviously add weight to the whole grill which may or may not work well with the star nuts.

Gerry
 
G Schafer said:
When I welded up my frames, I used heavier gauge stock. It allowed me to tap and thread the frame to attach items like the propane tank hanger without having to through bolt or use self tapping screws. However, anything that has to slip into the ends if the frame tubes might have to be trimmed down to fit. For me, it was the plastic plugs that I used in the lower left down tubes where the casters go in the newer frames. I don't know if the casters can be trimmed like the plugs. The heavier gauge will obviously add weight to the whole grill which may or may not work well with the star nuts.

Gerry
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i am leaning towards welding frame 100% with an upgraded tube thickness but not really thick. i could do with visiting
vendor where i can physically look at options rather than buying blind.
 
Bruce said:
1.34MM or .054 inches. on the thickness of a silver B frame piece.
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Thanks Gerry, extra points for conversion for the foreigner lol

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Well, that was me with the conversions. I noticed you were from overseas. One thing I would suggest before you buy anything is to go out and price the materials you will require. I don't know about you, but SS tubing is not cheap even over here. Also, if you go with welding, which I highly suggest, factor in the cost to have that done. And to keep the price down, I would consider regular thickness tubing. The SS tubing that Weber used on their Platinum B/C grills is plenty strong and I am 95% sure that it is the same thickness as the regular steel frames. I know the end handles and leg inserts are interchangeable so the inside diameter of the bars must be identical.
 
Bruce said:
Thanks Gerry, extra points for conversion for the foreigner lol

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Well, that was me with the conversions. I noticed you were from overseas. One thing I would suggest before you buy anything is to go out and price the materials you will require. I don't know about you, but SS tubing is not cheap even over here. Also, if you go with welding, which I highly suggest, factor in the cost to have that done. And to keep the price down, I would consider regular thickness tubing. The SS tubing that Weber used on their Platinum B/C grills is plenty strong and I am 95% sure that it is the same thickness as the regular steel frames. I know the end handles and leg inserts are interchangeable so the inside diameter of the bars must be identical.
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Apologies Bruce, im trying to multi task......badly!! Actually a foreigner residing the the Midwest! I will stick to same size tubing for all of the frame, i see no sense in using the slightly smaller 1 inch tubing. I think i know someone who can weld so will reach out to them initially but i need a clearer idea on final design first. I have a choice of firebox, a silver b or one from a 1000 with the 13 flav bars and longer burners. I think using silver b would make more sense cost wise.
 
If you are making the frame from scratch, then you could do either cook box. Yes, the 13 bar deep box would present an overall higher cost but it is preferred by a lot of Genesis fans. The 13 vs 5 flavorizer bars are more costly and getting harder to find as well as the large drip pan under the cook box. Burners are still pretty easy to come by.

Good luck with your build. Check some of the sale sites for overstock SS tubing. A month ago, I picked up a 20' length of 1.25" 304 stainless plus some more along with 15 feet or so of 1" SS square stock and some round SS tubing....all for $100. He was selling it by the pound and I got 50 lbs worth for $100.
 
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