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Thread: General 3D Printing Thread

  1. #11
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Tampa, FL
    Yeah I was running the latest Marlin but went back to stock when the results were all over the place. I don't think it needs to be any hotter though on account of I'm not seeing any beading. It might be hotter than reported because the thermistor is just poked in a hole.

  2. #12
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Tampa, FL
    I'm not sure why I was checking my reference voltages, considering my motors don't have any current rating listed on them, but I can tell you what I'm not doing: printing anything for a week. The via of the X driver was obscured by the little heatsink so I tried to push it slightly aside, it touched a capacitor and now the machine won't turn on with the X driver installed any more. Well hopefully it didn't kill the motor too or anything else like the RAMPS board. We'll pick this back up again in a week or so!

  3. #13
    TVWBB Pro
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    Jul 2012
    Sorry to hear that, I've done it too. Ramps 1.4 has the ability to control 5 drivers so that you can drive a dual extruder setup. I'm assuming you only have one extruder, but if the ramps board came with all 5 drivers installed, you can just pull the driver from extruder 2 and place it in the X driver position.

  4. #14
    TVWBB Pro
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    Jul 2012
    Here are my slic3r settings for printing heatermeter cases at normal speed:

    avoid_crossing_perimeters = 1
    bed_size = 300,250
    bed_temperature = 0
    bottom_solid_layers = 3
    bridge_acceleration = 0
    bridge_fan_speed = 100
    bridge_flow_ratio = 1
    bridge_speed = 80
    brim_width = 0
    complete_objects = 0
    cooling = 0
    default_acceleration = 0
    disable_fan_first_layers = 1
    duplicate = 1
    duplicate_distance = 6
    duplicate_grid = 1,1
    end_gcode = G1 X12.0 F4000 ; home (almost) x - stops extruder crashing into frame if at very top of Z height\nG1 Y170 F4000 ; move the print to the front.\nM104 S0 ; make sure the extuder is turned off.\nM140 S0 ; make sure the bed is turned off.\nM84 ; shut down motors
    external_perimeter_speed = 60%
    external_perimeters_first = 1
    extra_perimeters =
    extruder_clearance_height = 20
    extruder_clearance_radius = 20
    extruder_offset = 0x0
    extrusion_axis = E
    extrusion_multiplier = 1.0
    extrusion_width = 0
    fan_always_on = 0
    fan_below_layer_time = 60
    filament_diameter = 3
    fill_angle = 45
    fill_density = 0.3
    fill_pattern = rectilinear
    first_layer_bed_temperature = 0
    first_layer_extrusion_width = 0
    first_layer_height = 50%
    first_layer_speed = 60%
    first_layer_temperature = 0
    g0 = 0
    gap_fill_speed = 20
    gcode_arcs = 0
    gcode_comments = 0
    gcode_flavor = reprap
    infill_acceleration = 0
    infill_every_layers = 1
    infill_extruder = 1
    infill_extrusion_width = 0
    infill_first = 0
    infill_only_where_needed = 0
    infill_speed = 100
    layer_gcode =
    layer_height = 0.255
    max_fan_speed = 100
    min_fan_speed = 35
    min_print_speed = 10
    min_skirt_length = 0
    notes =
    nozzle_diameter = 0.4
    only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 0
    output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
    perimeter_acceleration = 0
    perimeter_extruder = 1
    perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
    perimeter_speed = 80
    perimeters = 3
    post_process =
    print_center = 150,125
    raft_layers = 0
    randomize_start = 1
    resolution = 0
    retract_before_travel = 2
    retract_layer_change = 1
    retract_length = 1.6
    retract_length_toolchange = 0
    retract_lift = 0
    retract_restart_extra = 0
    retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
    retract_speed = 40
    rotate = 0
    scale = 1
    skirt_distance = 6
    skirt_height = 1
    skirts = 3
    slowdown_below_layer_time = 15
    small_perimeter_speed = 40
    solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear
    solid_infill_below_area = 70
    solid_infill_every_layers = 0
    solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
    solid_infill_speed = 100%
    start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes
    support_material =
    support_material_angle = 0
    support_material_enforce_layers = 0
    support_material_extruder = 1
    support_material_extrusion_width = 0
    support_material_interface_layers = 0
    support_material_interface_spacing = 0
    support_material_pattern = rectilinear
    support_material_spacing = 4
    support_material_speed = 80
    support_material_threshold = 0
    temperature = 0
    threads = 2
    toolchange_gcode =
    top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
    top_solid_infill_speed = 75%
    top_solid_layers = 3
    travel_speed = 130
    use_relative_e_distances = 0
    vibration_limit = 0
    z_offset = 0

    If you are wondering why my layer height seems strange, it is due to the fact that I have 1.5 mm pitch lead screws.

  5. #15
    TVWBB Fan
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Egg Harbor Twp, NJ
    Holy moly! 10mm leadscrews? Thats huge. And M10 smooth rods? 12mm or 16mm would be awesome... Did you design your own X ends?

    Also, why so thin on the first layer? I go 200% for 1st and manually adjust the layer height to get a nice "squashed" first layer for better adhesion.

    What are you printing on these days? Kapton, pet or abs juice? Any more its abs juice for me.

    I'd post my settings but i'm on my way to key west for a week of vacation.

  6. #16
    TVWBB Pro
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    They are actually 8 mm lead screws made by misumi. I use linear rails for all 3 axes with custom parts that I designed. I used to do the manual squish thing, but didn't like the fact that you then get distortion of that first layer around orifices. One of the forum members was very interested in getting an extremely smooth surface to put labels on, so I played around with some settings and came up with this. This allows slic3r to appropriately calculate the amount of plastic needed for extrusion so that my first layer comes out pretty smooth without compromising the dimensions of my first layer orifices.

    I'm using kapton. I've never had good results with abs juice.

    Enjoy Key West, I'm jealous.

  7. #17
    TVWBB Diamond Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    I saw somewhere in a youtube video (think it was from MakerFarm) where they were using some sort of hair spray to help adhesion rather than printing on kapton tape? Can't remember if they were printing on glass or directly on the heated bed... Have you guys heard of or tried that?

  8. #18
    TVWBB Honor Circle Bryan Mayland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Tampa, FL
    Yeah it sucks about my motor driver but I did pull the extrusion driver so I could go about leveling the Z axis. I'm just a bit disappointed because I was hoping to have world class prints by the end of the weekend. Instead I'll be doing things like making the wiring pretty and getting octoprint working. Also try hooking up the device to the 5vsb line on my power supply so I can power a rPi and have it turn on and off the power as it needs it. Printing from work!

    I bought a can of that garnier fructise mega hold hairspray too and sprayed it on the glass. I does give a little tack to it so I think it is going to work great once I can get printing again.

  9. #19
    TVWBB Pro
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Hairspray is ok for small prints, but you will likely find that your corners will lift when printing a heatermeter case with it. You could probably try sanding the glass surface in conjunction with the hairspray for better adhesion, but I'm not jacking up my glass to try that.

  10. #20
    TVWBB Diamond Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Mayland View Post
    I.... bought a can of that garnier fructise mega hold hairspray too and sprayed it on the glass.....
    That sounds familiar, must have been in a MakerFarm video where I saw that... Let me know how it works for you.

    I know it's a bummer to still be working on the electronics and mechanics of your printer rather than making quality prints, but it's better than looking at UPS tracking that says your printer kit will arrive MONDAY....

    I must say, I am quite surprised how the software behind the 3D printer seems so primitive. Maybe primitive is not the word, perhaps unrefined? You would think there would be a software suite that had a calibration routine you run to get your printer adjusted and then just load a 3D object into it and hit PRINT and it would do all the slicing behind the scenes automatically. Having to create a table with the layer heights, really? come on... You would think a computer could do this for you? The process just seems a little disjointed to me...

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