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Hah! I should've known someone had already tried this. My next project is controlling the wood burning stove heating my house. Looking at linear actuators or stepper motors on the drafts.

I used a cast aluminum box for the SSR, so no other heatsink required. Works really well.

230 at 100% output, so I dropped to 5 butts and ditched the stacker. Ran fine after that with around 60% duty cycle. Lots of fat, so I still ended up with the oily mess.

Heatermeter is controlling a SSR to a 1500W immersion element. 32qt pot. Water, metal and electricity. What could go wrong?

Made what is probably the first heatermeter sous vide cooker. Just not sure how to stir the water yet, but so far it doesn't seem to matter.

This is my method for using pellets as a smoke source:

Just an update on this project. I'm pretty much all electric for the moment. Briskets, ribs and butts have all turned out awesome. The pellets in the Amaz-n thing don't impart much smoke flavor, but people seem to actually prefer it that way. I'm going to try 6 butts at once this weekend with...

Thanks. Will try this out.

Check the one in blue also.

I use an ATC most of the time, but I still stay proficient not using one. I'm afraid of it dying halfway through a cook. You'd better know how to drive if the Tesla blows a fuse. Thermoworks would be my first commercial choice. Heatermeter is my primary ATC. Commercial ATCs don't have the damper...

You can use foil to seal the hole. I never leave anything attached when not in use. I'm more concerned about heat when no air is being pulled through. Did you make the hole? Is there a fitting?

That's an interesting thought. You can use short machine screws, etc. to add additional racks to the WSM if that's what you're after. I'm not certain what an adjustable rack would gain you.

Lots of good books on Amazon. The Sausage and Jerky Maker's Bible is the one I like best so far.

Interesting. My list would be similar, but reversed. Heater meter would be at the top. I drilled holes in the damper tabs so I can stick a screwdriver through them to adjust. Handles on the shell interfere with the silicone cover, which is also high on my list. Lid hinge is handy, but creates...

You can pretty much bend an oven element into whatever shape you need, so I'm getting cheap ones from Amazon for these test. The hard part is finding the wattage since most listings only call out what appliance they'll fit. The average price is $25 or less. With a cheap PID controller you can...

My first thought for insulation is a welding blanket to wrap around the drum portion. For now I'll probably keep trying the silicone cover, although I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes. Guess that should be my next test. That 3600w element really cranks out the heat. I had to pretzel...

Switched to a 3600w element and it made a big difference, I reached 320 degrees in an empty cooker before shutting it down and it was still climbing. I think this will work much better than the 2400w I was using. The 240 volt element makes this conversion a viable option.

FWIW, I believe thermocouples encased in a housing are slower to respond because the junction isn't in direct contact with the heat. The housing acts like a thermal mass. Try an exposed bead TC.

Is a dongle an option and would it change anything?