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Anyone know what size/length the manifold screws are? The part number is 62781. Thanks!

Thats pretty cool, I've got a couple of commercial PID's, just don't have a 'PinSnoop v1' on them! I was thinking a different path, different coefficient tables (easy) or some sort of magical circuit to convert voltage to resistance (is that what your thermocouple smd's do?).

Anyone connect a couple of liquid tight sensors to their heatermeter? I'd like to use the heatermeter for monitoring some other hobbies, like a mash tun/brew pot, etc. and would like to attach a couple of sensors to them (not just one via the thermocouple). Bryan - I saw a post of yours...

reprap.org has tons of information including information on specific printers (prussa, mendelmax, taz, etc). Grab the beginners guide (http://reprap.org/wiki/The_incomplete_reprap_beginner's_guide) alot of your questions will be answered in there (only to spawn new ones!) reddit has 3d printer...

The Taz can be built pretty economically if you source the parts yourself - one of my officemates built his. You can get the extrusions cut to size from a couple of companies (pm me if you need a source). I built one of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:41967 but would to the taz next...

I purchased my boro through lulzbot, about $25.

I'm about to upgrade from my linkmeter, (took a break while building a 3d printer). Now the printer is running, back to a new HeaterMeter. 2 questions: First is timing, are the 4.1 boards good to go or should I wait? Second is Assuming 4.1, Anybody have an extra, otherwise I'll get the 3 boards...

They are very easy to work with, fast shipping and support. I also get my plastic from them. The filament from them is excellent. I've tried other less expensive vendors and had extruder problems, switched back to ultimachines plastic (with no changes to settings) and I can get very long prints...

I'm using them for all 3 axis. I have 2 from reprap discount and one from ultimachine. All seem to work very well. I drilled a small hole in either the plastic or the bed to hold the magnets and press fit them in (or a little white glue if necessary). Good luck!

Its hard to tell from your picture, but you may be missing a couple of jumpers. I think its 1-5 and 15-2, but check out the schematic and you can see them on my picture: http://tiny.cc/bnqrfw Neil </div></BLOCKQUOTE> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Adjust R6, its the contrast for the lcd display. Same issue alot of us ran into!

I contacted the seller, if I don't get the results I want, I'll put the claim in. As a reference, all wrt54g-tm's I've seen have a T-Mobile label on them (including the one I built my linkermeter from). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:WRT54G-TM.jpg I'm still keeping my eye out for another...

Me too...grrr and there was another one that was a tm for $20 at the same time that I almost went for instead. Piece of crap we go. Sorry about the bad info guys. Neil Me too, I got a v8. May be time to file my 1st eBay resolution request. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I followed others advice and opened a random port on my firewall and forwarded it to port 80 of the linkmeter.

They aren't that widely known, so not as popular to buy as the gl. This guy has 7 of them left: http://tinyurl.com/79xm2pt $20 including shipping It looks to me like the WRT54G-TM layout is identical to the WRT54GL (with the cutout) except they have 32MB of RAM and 8MB of flash. These are...

As far as I can tell (from the wrt54g wiki) there is only one version. You could check the first 4 digits of the serial number to double check:CO61 They are identical to the gl. The picture I posted earlier shows the board as well. http://tiny.cc/bnqrfw Never seen these before. Are the...

In case anyone's looking for a router, the wrt54gtm's are going on ebay for less then $20 including shipping. The TM's are the same as the wrt54gl's with more memory. I built mine based on the TM and it works well.

I used 1 1/4" conduit. Here's a link to some pictures: http://tinyurl.com/8627s47

I got the button board sch and brd files from git: https://github.com/CapnBry/Hea...er/tree/master/eagle Then sent them off to dorkbot (now oshpark.com) ----------------------------------------------------- Re-posting the below here; accidentally put it over in the old location "HeaterMeter...

Did you verify that all your wires & connections are good using the continuity setting on the ohm meter...unplug from the board and use an extra pin header plugged into it.