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I'll get there, too many projects costing me money so it's on a back burner for now though I scored a drum for $25 5 miles from my house so that's half the battle.

that's pretty much how it is, it'll vary 15 degrees either side. I can dial that back and keep it closer if I want. For some reason the wifi is reeeeeally slow

got a shoulder on today, first actual use of the linkmeter though it's monitoring my pellet grill and not controlling the temp, my UDS isn't done yet to play with the PID aspect of it. Think the probe is reading a little (lot) high. At freezing they read 3 degrees low, around 170F they were...

I will, in the appropriate section. Seems to work great, I'm using thermoworks probes and they seem to be doing great, I'm going to build a UDS to tinker with and play with the PID settings. It's a really slick little device and despite the weird problems I had has been a fun project. the...

I don't get it, new MOSFET and a new ATMEGA and all is well. No idea. If anyone needs parts I have a set of everything needed from mouser and digikey except for the probes, PCB, mosfet, case, and atmega I'll sell at a discount over what I paid, heh.

that's nice and tidy, I couldn't get my mosfet to lay that nice.

it's even worse when you don't know the difference between a P and N and are trying to find a place to sell you one locally so you don't have to spend $5 to ship a 25 cent part ;) matter of fact that's been my biggest irritation with the project, sourcing simple parts when you forget or break...

the BC337 looked good, no voltage at the resistor. I retouched the BC337 just to be sure and now the screen doesn't work. I give up I'm just going to start over. When I retouched the BC337 I heated that diode by accident, that caused enough solder to flow and short with the far right resistor, I...

ugh, this would make a lot more sense if I'd stop screwing up the terminology. I meant to say gate, right now with the fan at 0% I have 12v at the gate and source, nothing at the drain.

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Yes. That's what I meant. Per here: http://www.utm.edu/staff/leeb/mostest.htm 12v at the gate at all times. Looks like that trace just goes back to the atmega socket, I don't see any bad joints or solder bridges. I have the LED set to go on and off with the fan >0% and it's going on and off as...

I desoldered the mosfet, if I put my DMM on diode mode and put the negative lead to the source leg, then touch the + lead to the gate leg, I get an open circuit, no tone and OL on the screen, now that it should be turned on I leave - on gate and move + to the drain, I get continuity and a tone...

no continuity between the drain and gate

no, no bridging. I poked around online for a way to test mosfets with my DMM, and I can't get a response but that's most likely because either A) I'm doing it wrong, or B) you can't do it with the mosfet on the board anyway. I didn't know the tab was connected but I had already bent it off the...

I thought I had all the bugs worked out and the last thing to do was connect a fan, my fans on all the time. Doesn't matter if it's in manual, auto, up to temp, not at temp, I get close to 12v to the fan leads on my ethernet cable and at the board where the rj45 solders on, all good connections...

last update, between the solder sucker and finishing up with the copper braid I actually got a pretty good desolder job done on the LCD and it came off pretty easily. Soldered a new one on and it's working perfectly again so it was definitely the LCD that failed. Just my luck right?

Ok, thanks for the tip!

confident.... not entirely but it's really not useable as is, so if I sacrifice this one I sacrifice this one, I'll work on getting it off this week and order a new screen if I'm sucessfull, if I'm not I'll order all new parts and start from there. I have a sucker and braid, I'll see if I can't...

That could work, if I cut the plastic between the header pins I could push them out under heat one at a time, good idea thanks

Well, thanks for all the help. I'll try to desolder it but my experience is the sucker doesn't get all the solder out and you end up with a really thin joint that sets as soon as it cools if you can't pull the pin out while it's hot, but I'm not super skilled at it either. I have nothing to lose...