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I tested it first with a thermocouple but eventually just switched to using a shunt to connect the input pins of the amplifier together. One leg of the shunt is connected to ground (through a 1k resistor in the standard build, or what became a 1M resistor in this test setup). I need to try...

Yeah I think you're seeing the same thing, but it isn't clock harmonics because I can reproduce it using just an AD8495 chip (which is just an analog opamp) and a Raspberry Pi. It seems to be when the Pi transmits at full power, the AD8495 output changes. If I move the AD8495 around there are...

I think there's actually some effect from client mode 2.4GHz as well, as sometimes when I load the web page there's a single tick of slightly off data you can only see if you look at the display. I think it just shows up more in AP mode because it blasts out a beacon packet every 100ms at full...

I did not realize it did that but I just dug in to find out. That's because every theme forces itself to be the one used on the first bootup. Because they execute in alphabetical order, openwrt just so happens to be the one that wins every time. Looking at current OpenWrt master, they've changed...

Wow that's a super-excellent idea! I switched over to 5GHz (channel 40) AP mode and there is zero noise there on the thermocouple probe just like client mode. That's just crazy.

EDIT: This affects both AP and Client mode on Pi3B+, but AP mode is more consistently broken. Only remedy is to switch to 5.8GHz wifi or lower 2.4GHz output power to 10dBm if you can. details I've been doing some experimentation on the bench with a HeaterMeter 4.3.4 and a Pi 3B+ and I'm seeing...

I actually find the noise to be greatly diminished when running off a 12V battery. Even though the AC to DC power adapter is isolated, it somehow picks up more ground noise when it is present. Like if I use HeaterMeter in the toaster oven, if the probe touches the metal of the oven it picks up...

This guy gets it. Although I don't think those can be seen in sunlight either, somebody send me 16 of them and I'll test :p

Longer wires are more prone to noise, power supply ripple, and there's a little extra voltage drop along the wire which means the blower will run a little lower speed. That said, I don't think there will be an issue with using it considering it already has a 6ft cord on it and the gauge of that...

Yeah it's pretty great because it can run off a battery and has a built-in charger, but it just is going to be an awful experience to use it for data that is constantly changing-- as fast as the screen can refresh. It isn't like an LCD display either where the slow refresh just looks like slow...

I've just discovered that the v15 release is missing the "Reset config?" item in the device's LCD menu. The "Network Information" is in there twice (it was originally at the end but I moved it up and forgot to update the transition definition). I've published a new snapshot and AVR firmware to...

Those are awesome and I can't wait for the price to drop to a more affordable range as they become more ubiquitous. With just a 2.9" diagonal it is pretty small to see from any distance away though so it would be similar to a 4-line LCD I think. Unless you had 4x of them forming a larger...

Wow that's certainly interesting, I've never heard a report of something like this happening before. I've also never done any cold weather testing because it never gets very cold here in Tampa. You'd think everything would be warmed up by the electronics to stay well away from the -20C operating...

That's one of the other reasons I wanted to build it too, to have a big ole display you can set up by the grill for easily seeing all the temps at once. Unfortunately, even at the highest brightness level, it gets really washed out even under a desk lamp. Outdoor viewing is pretty much not an...

A long time ago someone had an idea to make a giant 7-segment LED display panel that showed the temperatures from their HeaterMeter in a standalone unit. They never did, and after I priced checked bigger LEDs ($3-5 per digit) I cheaped out and didn't want to make one either. I still had it in...

Hooray! I hope that was it. I had originally connected the 3V3 to the HeaterMeter so that it could run off the Pi's power supply and save 40 cents on parts because I figured almost everyone would have a Pi connected. I later realized it was a lot easier to troubleshoot stuff if the HeaterMeter...

Yup that's where I was suggesting, sorry I didn't do a picture. You can just clip the 3V3 pin coming out of the Pi as well, they just need to not connect somehow.

No it is first pin. The image is a little confusing because there's the ICSP connector on the right which is its own thing, then the Pi header starts right after that with the 3V3 pin. I've just realized that because this is on the bottom and the Pi connector is there, it covers this trace so...

Something isn't right for sure, it should always boots up every time you plug power in. Do you have the 3.3V regulator installed on the HM4.0? If the regulator is installed maybe try cutting the trace on the bottom so the power isn't fed back into the Pi, which has its own 3.3V supply. This...

Probably the only way you'll probably be able to diagnose this would be to hook a monitor and keyboard up to it and see what's going on. Just dropping off wifi every couple of days isn't normal, but there's not really any way to figure out what is going on if it just disappears and you have...