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Got the code built (which was harder than it should have been because I am not familiar with this development environment). Ended up needing a few extra libraries TaskScheduler, ESP8266WiFi, ESPAsyncTCP, ArduinoJson. Also struggled a bit because I picked the wrong board type (D1 vs D1 mini)...

Pretty interesting results. And credit you are amazingly tenacious trying to figure this out. Since you have the AD8495 shorted out, seems hard to believe it is input noise, is it worse with a probe? Wonder if this is the RFI rectification issue described by AD? Years ago when chasing a similar...

That's a pretty impressive change log. Thanks for sharing your work, appreciate all that you do!

Well, if it works, it's probably good. Perhaps the polarized capacitor C12. In theory, D3 should have protected the other components. Perhaps check Q2 if you care about the buzzer. Wonder why D3 is not before the 12v feed to rest of board? Perhaps did not want the voltage drop?

To he blue wire is the fan tachometer. Good chance you blew the tachometer output when you hooked it to 12V as the are normally open collector outputs. The fan should still work fine.

That would be weird, but a win is a win.

At the risk of sending you on a wild goose chase, the following thread a user reported an intermittent short on one of the 0.1uF caps. You might try pulling those caps and see it it corrects issue. https://tvwbb.com/threads/probe-3-inop.84025/#post-931620

Sounds pretty cool. Thanks for your continued innovation. Looking forward to trying it!

Soldering looks nice and clean. Nice work. Did you test the PIs standalone after conformal coating? Could be the cause, sometimes BGAs don't like getting coating underneath.

How about some clear photos of both sides of the HM baseboard only. Maybe someone will notice something.

Nice looking graph, but it looks like you need to seal it up better because the output is barely being controlled by the heater meter fan (it is near zero output most of the time). You have all the bottom vents closed?

I have the 18.5 WSM, but they are pretty similar. I think the 6CFM fan is more than enough if the airflow is not restricted. Mine is connected with 1" NPT through a 1" hole. I usually only run the 6 CFM fan at about 30%max so I would be surprised if it was not enough for the 22. If you have too...

I have mine attached with a 4” piece of 1" NPT, no issues with melting.

Fair enough, I figured you had nothing to lose by trying. Good luck on your repair, should not be too bad, just takes some patience.

It looks to me like you could salvage that header. Use a drill bit to gently open the tops of the holes and then smooth out the top just don't go too deep that you hit the pins. I would try that first before trying to unsolder it it can be tricky to remove that many pins without damaging the board

Yup, oops. Cool stand though!

It looks to me like you could salvage that header. Use a drill bit to gently open the tops of the holes and then smooth out the top just don't go too deep that you hit the pins. I would try that first before trying to unsolder it it can be tricky to remove that many pins without damaging the board.

Nice, mine has a very similar arrangement.

Another option proving to be reliable for several members are the vorpal tower pro MG90 https://vorpal-robotics-store.myshopify.com/products/vorpal-brand-mg90-micro-servos

A P value of 20 is almost surely too high (which is probably why it seemed too twitchy). The P value is multiplied by temperature error. Fun to experiment with tunings, but hard to dial in because most smokers respond slowly, take a while to stabilize, and are not consistent due to variable...