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What a deal you got there Jeff.Ro!...

I would go to heatermeter.com/dl, select your rPi board version and dl the latest snapshot build including your wifi setup (make sure you use the DOWNLOAD button on the bottom to dl, not the gz or zip links at the top). From there you can either connect to your HM via LAN to update or remove the...

Have you tried the minion method of setting up your charcoal? This is basically setting up a trail of coals that burn a little at a time rather than lighting a big pile of coals, can be accomplished with a number of setups... with this method you can set wood chunks or chips along the burn path...

The "pin by pin" suggestion that Bryan made is good advice.... Since the HM has a double sided board there is likely solder on the top side of the board under the header as well as the solder side, when the solder looks to be removed on the solder side the pins may still be soldered on the top...

That air-burner build looks sweet! it's gonna work really nice for you....

With caps higher voltage is always acceptable, but higher voltage caps can be larger, so you need to make sure they will physically fit in the spot and lead spacing will work.

I like the new noise feature Bryan! I see you have polished the UI quite a bite recently, I'm seeing all sorts of user friendly stuff popping up... NICE WORK!

My solution is running the blower, servo and all probes through the CAT5 cable so the HM can be located some distance (about 50Ft max) from the grill, this way you can keep the HM out of the elements. I have mine permanently wired to my kamado via CAT5 cable that runs into my kitchen, I never...

You're missing the "burner"? The air-burner concept was based on the small holes forcing air to concentrate into jet like streams that stoke the fire efficiently (like tiny fireplace bellows) with minimum air flow. I like your pipe implementation, and agree it beats the hell out of the dog bowl...

I suggest you try a rPi zero-w, cheap, low power/heat, tiny, only negative perhaps is the lack of LAN port and the mini hdmi. That said, as long as you can get your image to boot you don't need lan or HDMI, and I've never had a problem with a zero-w.

All hardware versions of the HM can run the latest firmware, so you are good to go, the only restriction is hardware version prior to 4.2 cannot use voltage mode on the blower. You can go to https://www.heatermeter.com/dl/ to get the firmware, make sure to select your rPi version and I suggest...

I would clean up all of that flux I see in your most recent picture with a soft brush and some isopropyl alcohol, excess flux can make the tc amp wonky... and the one cap is pretty twisted, I would straighten that out to make sure it isn't shorting on anything. I've soldered a few of these TC...

12v DC measure at power jack (gnd and 12V are marked on the backside of the board). The little OKI DC-DC board takes 12V down to 5V., this device is kinda near the center of the v4.3 board and the voltages are marked on the back side of the board (near the little robot guy). The 3.3v regulator...

Ahh, maverick probes... I quite using them too, they're too flaky for me. I'm thermoworks all the way, really happy with their probes.

Maybe your probe presets got messed up somehow during the melt down... or maybe you blew a voltage regulator on the HM board in the heat, or something else that is making voltages out of wack on your HM board? I would start out testing the power section of the HM board, 12V, 5V, 3.3v at the...

Just because you destroyed a couple traces on your board doesnt mean its toast... You'll just need to add some jumper wires to make the circuits that were lost when you broke the trace(s). You can look at the images of the HM board Bryan posted on the HM Hardware page to make following traces...

I find this cheap magnifying visor to be helpful for inspecting and building electronics, particularly SMD stuff. https://www.harborfreight.com/home-outdoor/home/magnification-precision-tools/magnifier-head-strap-with-lights-38896.html

the avr, the processor on the HM board... ... but my point being... It is not unheard of for a perfectly good HM build (on your SD Card) to become corrupt over time for whatever reason. So to assume it is not the problem just because it has been working for a period (particularly a long period)...

The HM scale will adjust to show the biggest peaks in the range of the graph, be that a change in setpoint or an odd spike in a probe reading, perhaps there was a spike on a probe when plugging them in that made the scale adjust. If, for instance, you change your setpoint to very near your...

I will just weigh in here quickly to note that I recently tried to update the firmware on my HM which has been up and running for a long time. The flash failed and wiped my ATMega and the HM would no longer boot. I replaced the ATMega which got the HM back up, but flashing again wiped the next...