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I lost track of pit droid when it changed to a format that limited the setpoint to 350F unfortunately. I do a lot of higher heat cooking as well as low and slow, but pit droid doesn't play nice with temps above 350. Wish it would.... I just popped it up and it doesn't seem to have connected, ip...

I've been asking for a way to stash configurations from the HM GUI and load them from the HM LCD menu for a long time, so you can save various wifi configs, or configs for different pits etc, and load them easily from the HM hardware. Brian always says basically there is a lot more too it than...

I suggest you try RESET from the HM LCD menu, see if that puts it back into AP mode. If not I would dl the image from heatermeter.com/dl that matches your needs and write that to your SD card and start out fresh.., and dont delete your network devices.

Well, sounds like you had it working but didnt know it perhaps? If you started from an Access Point build and used a wireless device to scan for available networks and connected to HEATERMETER, then loaded the HM web gui and went to config/network/wifi and scanned for and connected to your...

Well, if your HM is boothing and showing you either "No Pit Probe" or a temp for the pit then your rPi has booted linkmeter and flashed the ATMega on your HM board successfully, otherwise you will just see black boxes on the HM LCD. As for getting connected to the web interface, that depends...

As Bryan noted, it really doesnt matter what orientation the chip socket is installed, as long as you install the chip in the orientation that is shown by the printing on the board. (the chip can go in the socket backward, no problem). Perhaps it was just some bad soldering on the socket that...

Make sure you have not mixed up the 3.3v regulator with a BS170 transistor on your HM board. They look just alike except for the printing on them. Without the regulator in place your ATMega will be DOA......

Hitting the point re: restricting air flow... The HM is great but one byproduct of pushing air into your pit with a blower is you cause cooling in addition to stoking the fire. If you flow too much air, particularly in cold climates, you might end up fighting the cooling effect, burning more...

Area=pi*r*r = 3.14*10*10 = 314 sq mm (where r=10mm because the inside diameter of the 3/4" copper pipe is 20mm. I generally work with metric because a 10 based system is much easier to work with than US fractions.) So your cross sectional area of the 3/4" pipe is 314 sq mm. Lets say you want...

Glad you pinned it down. If your soldering iron wasn't heating up properly during the build which resulted in this problem I would suggest you do a "shotgun" soldering to your boards just to make sure you don't run into other similar problems down the line. By shotgun I mean like scatter shot...

Glad you pinned it down. If your soldering iron wasn't heating up properly during the build which resulted in this problem I would suggest you do a "shotgun" soldering of your boards just to make sure you don't run into other similar problems down the line. By shotgun I mean like scatter shot...

I would say "fortunately" the problem persists with the LCD board removed, because that only leaves the base board to troubleshoot! Consulting the schematic (posted below) you can see that the button circuit is quite simple. See the top right corner of the ATMega, Pin 23, BUTTONS. It goes up to...

I haven't had to troubleshoot the button board, but here is some general information about how the buttons work that may be helpful. When pressed each button supplies a different voltage (determined by the value of the resistor connected to that button) to the same input on the ATMega , the...

I'm guessing 3/4" copper, that is what I made the original air burner out of.

Thats exactly how I have my pit probe rigged now (after seeing you post about it some time ago). Frankly I prefer to have it on the grill grate right where the food is, but that is a PITA to deal with, taking on and off when you load the coals, keeping food off it etc. I am still getting used to...

Live and learn I guess, never let your pit probe lean up against cold meat! That same exact thing happened to me one time....

The RD3 lets the 6.7CFM blower push for all its worth... If 6.7CFM is enough for the Brinkmann Cimarron it will work, however, I have no idea how much air that smoker requires. I also have an RD25 which can run much larger blowers, but I dont think you would need that much flow. I'd be glad to...

Yep, fans aren't able to push against restriction, they're basically useless if there is any bottleneck in the air passage. A blower, however, can create static pressure which will overcome restrictions and force air to flow... Lesson learned I guess...

Left button has received a long press and hold. Check that button and soldering there.

I agree, the ash pan on that vortex looks like it deflects the air outside of the heat shield that contains the fire. That might be fine with a natural air flow setup, but with a blower that could cause the cold air to blow right by the fire and up into the dome around the food. You might give...