Recent content by RalphTrimble

You didn't hurt my feelings, you hurt this community by driving away a solid contributor with your aggressive and rude tactics. Bye.

You "found" this, LOL! Kinda funny how you still have an issue giving credit where credit is due to the creator? You just had to remove RD3 and repost the design didn't you? YOU were the only one selling my design for a profit! Hope life smacks you in the face one day for being so deceitful, you...

Good point. I found the noise level for grounded thermocouples can be much higher in some circumstances, I always use isolated thermocouples, it's worth the effort to check into that before you by.

I've had a thermocouple outside on my grill connected (remotely via CAT5 cable) to my HM for about 10 years now. I cook low and slow but also cook pizza as high as 700 degrees. I killed a dozen regular pit probes before I switched to thermocouple, never killed a thermocouple, so I disagree with...

To the original question, the button circuit is fairly simple... There is an ADC input on the ATMEGA (Pin 23) that reads voltage, when it sees specific voltages it registers the corresponding button press. Each button is supplied +5V through a specific value resistor that sets that button lead...

My guess is you have HMv4.24 because it has a thermocouple pit probe and one button control. Is your problem with the connector on the HM device or the connector on the probe? If the thermocouple probe end is your problem you might try taking it apart, the leads sometimes get twisted and short...

Sounds like the IP address on the HM may have changed? Reboot the HM and watch the screen, it should display the IP address when it connects, then try to connect to the GUI on that IP. You can also go to https://heatermeter.com/devices/ from a computer on the same network and it should show the...

Going with the bundled version writes the version you have from your current installation I believe, meaning, does not upgrade. Also, there are two places in the HM where you can push updates. Instead of Linkmeter\AVR Firmware try this: DL the latest release (looks like release v15 is newer...

Glad its working again. On the HM DL page make sure you select the proper options to match your rPi version before you dl the update.

My first step would be to test the HM power supply circuit. Unplug the rPi and provide a proper 12V input voltage to the HM and check the PS section by section: Test for 12V at the solder side of the power connector Test for 12V on the input pin of the OKI 12/5V converter board, and 5V on the...

It can be used to extend three standard probes with just the plugs, the TC probe would require all the components. You can connect whichever probes you want (with exception of the TC) by connecting the jumpers on the HM board to the desired probes.

In a case like this I usually remove the ATMega and rPi, then quickly sweep through and re-solder the whole board, then wash board with flux remover or isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush and let dry. Then reinstall the ATMega and rPi and see how it works. Depending on board versions, sometimes...

You note the new HM is not attached to the rPi.... did you initially connect the new HM to the rPi so the firmware could be loaded on the ATMEGA? If not then your HM is a blank slate, no operating system... Need to program the SD card and connect the rPi to the HM and let if boot and flash the...

Tell your son to pick up on this thread, with some patience and help from forum members he will get it working.... I still think the HM is gonna be superior to any other BBQ controller out there if you build a damper, to my knowledge no other controller has implemented a damper system, though I...

Michel, I understand your frustration. In a situation like this I take the "shotgun" approach. Remove the rPi, pull the ATMEGA, then with a clean soldering iron QUICKLY reflow the solder on the entire board. If you soldered heavily the first time then a reheat to reflow is probably all you...