HM version 4 Rpi 3d print case


 
I have it installed but don't really care for it. You can open the beta files in it if you first save them to "my corner" in the autodesk beta. They are then accessible from there. I plan on continuing to use the beta version for the forseable future, though.
 
Tom Kole said:
I have it installed but don't really care for it. You can open the beta files in it if you first save them to "my corner" in the autodesk beta. They are then accessible from there. I plan on continuing to use the beta version for the forseable future, though.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's the answer I was hoping for....
 
The recessed button hole is awesome! I was able to flush mount the button and it's readily accessible.

Great work, Tom!

e1viEmHl.jpg
 
I switched over to SketchUp and like it much better. It lacks a few of the direct tools 123D has but things snap together much more easily, and I can replicate the same tools (like fillet and chamfer) using a sketch and the follow me tool.

You can open 123D beta files using 123D Design though. To do it, log in in 123D Beta 9, save your file TO THE CLOUD (caps because it is funny), then you can open the file from 123D Design "My Library". Can't go the other way though.

EDIT: Doh! Didn't realize there was a new page. Disregard.

I have been imagining a case with the top side down low, at button height that then slopes up to the LCD. Of course, you can't print this in one piece because you'd have to print it the opposite way that it is currently printed, but either the whole front piece can just be a flat panel that sits inside the frame, or the raised bit can be a 3rd printed part that is glued in place. I haven't had time to work it out exactly or see if it looks like crap though. I should do a rough sketchup to show what I mean.

The benefit would be a little less plastic, no need for recessed button or extended LEDs, and you could design the LCD bump so that it channels rain away from the opening. Apparently that last one is needed :)
 
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I thought about doing something very similar and came to the conclusion that printing the top in two pieces using glue to connect them would be the way to go.
 
Bryan, were you thinking something like this:

if29ma.jpg


I dropped the top as low as it could go and then chamfer'd the edges around the display. This would have to be printed as two pieces and glued. I could give it a shot and see what it looks like printed. To be honest, it won't save much plastic because it only eliminates a few mm's of wall. There aren't any large flat surfaces that are reduced.
 
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Tom Kole said:
I dropped the top as low as it could go and then chamfer'd the edges around the display. This would have to be printed as two pieces and glued. I could give it a shot and see what it looks like printed. To be honest, it won't save much plastic because it only eliminates a few mm's of wall. There aren't any large flat surfaces that are reduced.
Click to expand...
Yeah! Something almost exactly like that. I tried to make something with more of a curve to it but it it didn't blend into the front very well so it looked like a mess. That's why I thought maybe 3 pieces would work better because the top piece would be printed bottom to top. Something like this (excuse the 1 minute SketchUp drawing)


The middle piece is just a shell with guides for the screw posts and the forms the tops of all the jack holes, then has an inset or something to receive the top flat. Dangit I just realized why this wouldn't work, the screws would have to be external to hold the face plate on. Oh well, back the the idea mill.
 
Any idea how long this takes to print on a MakerBot Replicator2? I have access to one for $2/hr of printing (in PLA).

I'm also a woodworker, so I plan on making a case out of some nice English Walnut, but I'd like something to keep it happy while that project is in the queue.

Thanks
 
Job Lenihan said:
Any idea how long this takes to print on a MakerBot Replicator2? I have access to one for $2/hr of printing (in PLA).

I'm also a woodworker, so I plan on making a case out of some nice English Walnut, but I'd like something to keep it happy while that project is in the queue.

Thanks
Click to expand...

It all depends on their slicing settings but it shouldn't be more than 6 hours.
 
Awesome. Any suggestions on a "good" slicing setting? It's an open lab at the local public library, so it's largely "do what you want."

Thanks
 
Job Lenihan said:
Awesome. Any suggestions on a "good" slicing setting? It's an open lab at the local public library, so it's largely "do what you want."

Thanks
Click to expand...

I've never used that machine, but from what I've seen of it, it looks pretty solid. Since it's only $2 per hour, I would keep things relatively slow so that you make sure you do it right on the first shot. I would assume that their computer has some default slicing settings that you could probably go with, but I would set my perimeters at around 40 mm/s, infill at 60 mm/s, 30% infill, and run the first layer at 50% speeds. As far as temp goes, for PLA 185F is a good starting point. Do a couple of extrude cycles to verify that the flow is consistent. You will probably want to lay down blue painters tape for the bed to help with the PLA adhesion.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
What do you think about layer height, Tom? I have been going with 0.30mm. For the heatermeter case, 0.40mm would probably be fine though considering it doesn't have many curves or anything.
 
I forgot all about layer height. I also use 0.3 mm, but as was discussed earlier, it really depends on your z axis threads and what yields a nice integer for your layer height. I think for the heatermeter, if you are using a 0.5 mm nozzle, 0.25 to 0.3 is right on. I wouldn't do 0.4 just because the adhesion between layers wouldn't be that great. If you really wanted 0.4 mm layer height, I think you would have to experiment with a 0.75 mm nozzle.
 
I'm pretty sure I've been slicing with a .3 for the first layer and .4 for the rest (default slic3r config from MakerFarm), and the HM cases I printed so far have been printed this way. They have worked out fine as far as I can tell, however, I will be experimenting with layer height and re-printing my case as soon as my new roll of filament arrives.

Bryan, you had mentioned before that you moved away from Slic3r and were using a different slicer (at the moment the name escapes me). I downloaded and installed it, but I couldn't find any config files for the Prusa i3 for that slicer. Looking at all the settings (and still being a novice at 3D printing) I was a bit overwhelmed and decided to just continue to use Slic3r. Would you be so kind as to share you config file for the i3 with me so I have a starting point with this slicer that I know works with the i3?
 
I'm still not sure which I like better, but here is my Cura profile. Note you need to edit the start gcode because I home the Z then move down 2.7mm which is where my bed actually is. I'm guessing your bed isn't 2.7mm from the z endstop. I was also messing with the max speeds so you probably just want to delete that line.
Code: 
[profile]
layer_height = 0.3
wall_thickness = 1.4
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 0.9
fill_density = 20
nozzle_size = 0.5
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 205
print_temperature2 = 0
print_temperature3 = 0
print_temperature4 = 0
print_bed_temperature = 90
support = None
platform_adhesion = None
support_dual_extrusion = False
filament_diameter = 2.95
filament_diameter2 = 0
filament_diameter3 = 0
filament_diameter4 = 0
filament_flow = 100.0
retraction_speed = 13
retraction_amount = 1
retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
bottom_thickness = 0
object_sink = 0.0
overlap_dual = 0.2
travel_speed = 120.0
bottom_layer_speed = 40
infill_speed = 70
cool_min_layer_time = 20
fan_enabled = False
skirt_line_count = 1
skirt_gap = 3.0
fan_layer = 1
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
cool_min_feedrate = 10
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 15
support_rate = 75
brim_line_count = 20
raft_margin = 5
raft_line_spacing = 1.0
raft_base_thickness = 0.3
raft_base_linewidth = 0.7
raft_interface_thickness = 0.2
raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
plugin_config = (lp1
	.
object_center_x = -1
object_center_y = -1

[alterations]
start.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
	;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
	;Print time: {print_time}
	;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
	;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
	M80  ; power on
	G21        ;metric values
	G90        ;absolute positioning
	G4 P500 ; wait
	M104 S150
	M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
	M104 S{print_temperature} ; set temperature
	G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops
	G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops
	G1 Z-2.70 F200 ;z offset
	M84 ; disable motors
	M203 X150 Y150 Z3 E13 ; max feedrate
	M109 S{print_temperature} ; wait for temp
	G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 ;reset software position to front/left/z=0.0
	G1 F{travel_speed}
end.gcode = ;End GCode
	M104 S0     ;extruder heater off
	M140 S0     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
	G91
	G1 E-0.5 F300 ;retract the filament a bit
	G28 X0
	M84         ;steppers off
	G90         ;absolute positioning
	M81
start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
	;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
	;Print time: {print_time}
	;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
	;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
	G21        ;metric values
	G90        ;absolute positioning
	M107       ;start with the fan off
	G28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops
	G28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops
	G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
	T1
	G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
	G1 F200 E10             ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
	G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
	G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
	T0
	G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length
	G1 F200 E10              ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
	G92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length again
	G1 F{travel_speed}
	M117 Printing...
end2.gcode = ;End GCode
	M104 T0 S0                     ;extruder heater off
	M104 T1 S0                     ;extruder heater off
	M140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
	G91                                    ;relative positioning
	G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
	G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
	G28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
	M84                         ;steppers off
	G90                         ;absolute positioning
support_start.gcode = 
support_end.gcode = 
cool_start.gcode = 
cool_end.gcode = 
replace.csv = 
nextobject.gcode = ;Move to next object on the platform. clear_z is the minimal z height we need to make sure we do not hit any objects.
	G92 E0
	G91                                    ;relative positioning
	G1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
	G1 Z+0.5 E-5 F{travel_speed}           ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
	G90                                    ;absolute positioning
	G1 Z{clear_z} F{max_z_speed}
	G92 E0
	G1 X{object_center_x} Y{object_center_y} F{travel_speed}
	G1 F200 E6
	G92 E0
switchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.
	G92 E0
	G1 E-36 F5000
	G92 E0
	T{extruder}
	G1 X{new_x} Y{new_y} Z{new_z} F{travel_speed}
	G1 E36 F5000
	G92 E0

I also noticed that my go-to shop for cables Monoprice carries white, black, and red filament in ABS, PLA, 1.7m, and 3mm. $35.17/kg shipped for 1 spool, $30.86/kg for 2 spools.
 
Bryan, Thanks a bunch....

That's a good deal on the filament, I am wondering if it is on the big spools like MakerFarm sells or the smaller/wider spools? I've tried both and find the smaller spool to be a complete PITA while the larger spool was no trouble at all....

EDIT: I just noticed the give the specs for the reel (7.68" diameter)... That's one thing I found frustrating when shopping for filament, some places don't seem to give details on the spool size, which I find to be pretty important information.....
 
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Bryan/Ralph

Steps Calculator

I'm assuming you are still using the M5 threaded rods (0.8 pitch) and 200-step motors that came with your machine.

Assuming that you haven't calibrated your Z-axis (which you shouldn't do) your steps/mm for Z should be 250@full step. If you're running at some microstep level on Z you should really consider moving to a full-step as mechanical>microstep in both accuracy and precision. If you really want to keep microstepping on Z you should think about quarter-step. Appropriate full-step layer heights for M6 are increments of 0.004 and quarter-step heights are increments of 0.001.

Good full-step layer heights through 0.1 are:

0.004
0.008
0.012
0.016
0.02
0.024
0.028
0.032
0.036
0.04
0.044
0.048
0.052
0.056
0.06
0.064
0.068
0.072
0.076
0.08
0.084
0.088
0.092
0.096
0.1

This isn't all that ideal in that I can choose a layer height that will introduce error into the system. That's no bueno.

Good quarter-step layer heights through 0.1 are:

0.001
0.002
0.003
0.004
0.005
0.006
0.007
0.008
0.009
0.01
0.011
0.012
0.013
0.014
0.015
0.016
0.017
0.018
0.019
0.02
0.021
0.022
0.023
0.024
0.025
0.026
0.027
0.028
0.029
0.03
0.031
0.032
0.033
0.034
0.035
0.036
0.037
0.038
0.039
0.04
0.041
0.042
0.043
0.044
0.045
0.046
0.047
0.048
0.049
0.05
0.051
0.052
0.053
0.054
0.055
0.056
0.057
0.058
0.059
0.06
0.061
0.062
0.063
0.064
0.065
0.066
0.067
0.068
0.069
0.07
0.071
0.072
0.073
0.074
0.075
0.076
0.077
0.078
0.079
0.08
0.081
0.082
0.083
0.084
0.085
0.086
0.087
0.088
0.089
0.09
0.091
0.092
0.093
0.094
0.095
0.096
0.097
0.098
0.099
0.1

That is much more regular, and makes choosing an inappropriate layer height almost impossible (unless you specify a layer height >3 decimal places)

This should help your prints look better.

And I'm printing cases @ 0.25 because that was the appropriate height for my 1/4-16 ACME screws. I got rid of them and I couldn't be happier :D Now I'm running M6 rods and what a world of difference.

Also, you should consider upgrading to 400-step motors on Z.
 
Yeah with M5 threaded rods, 200 step motors, full steps only, 0.3mm layer height is a full step value. 0.300 / 0.004 = 75. The numbers you listed would indicate that 0.03mm would be a bad layer height, but that's 1/10th what we're doing. Or am I mathing it up here?
 
I'm totally confused at this point about layer height. Right now my Slic3r setting is (default MakerFarm config) .35mm for first layer and .4mm for all the rest. (although for first layer it says mm or %, I assume the .35 setting is mm?) I recall before I got the printer seeing your table of numbers (representing the layers) and being confused, I'm still confused because the Slic3r doesn't use a table, it sets a height for the first layer and then another for the rest... So I don't know where this table comes in (unless you are putting that out there just to illustrate where the layers will be?)

At any rate, I am still confused, cause your numbers start out so low, since the default slic3r settings start at .35mm and move up in steps of .4mm after that. I don't know where all these .00XX numbers come into play?

What would you suggest I use for the layer height and the first layer height in Slic3r? Perhaps I will understand eventually, right now I am lost in what you are saying....

Edit: Thinking further, the z-motors step 200 times for one complete revolution, which will lift the z-axis .8mm. So 100 full steps should give me .4mm movement. The first layer of .35mm height would require 87.5 steps, and half steps aren't good, so .35mm first layer isnt good either... Right? A first layer height of .3mm, however, would require 75 complete steps on the z-axis. So am I right to conclude slicing the first layer at .3mm and the rest at .4mm would be a much better idea?

This would mean the z-motors make 75 steps for the first layer and 100 steps each layer after that, so the table of steps would go like:
75
175
275
etc???
Still confused....
 
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