Trick for tough bolts on lid/endcaps


 
DanJC

DanJC

TVWBB Fan
***EDIT: See post #14 below before you attempt this trick***

I've had a couple of lids in which it is nearly impossible to get the bolts off that secure the endcaps. The nuts and bolts seem to have fully rusted together, and the flat cap on the exterior provides no way to leverage.

There are probably much better ways, but for newbies w/ few tools I found a simple trick after spending far too long manhandling wrenches.

Attack the nut from the side!

Using a smaller bit, drill a clean hole through the nut until you hit the bolt. The metal is soft so this is easy to do. With that hole as your foundation, throw on a larger bit and drill until the nut is nice and mangled. You could probably also step up through 3-4 bit sizes for a cleaner process. The nut doesn't have to completely break off, you just need to destroy its structural integrity.

Then take a hammer and pound out bolt from the inside. Done!

IMG_6007.jpeg
 
Last edited:
DanJC said:
Ha, totally. Like I said, I’m there are better ways, but when you don’t have an angle grinder still gotta find a way!
Click to expand...
Do you have an air compressor? If so get yourself one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...ront-exhaust-air-angle-die-grinder-52848.html and if you don't and you don't intend to do heavy work find a decent 6 gallon one something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...allon-15-hp-150-psi-air-compressor-68149.html
It's far easier to use than drilling a hole in a screw. Also less destructive in case you need to save the screw because it's a "stud". You can then simply cut the nut off it
 
A light duty impact wrench will almost always work. It breaks up the corrosion and gunk to get the nut turning.

Anyway, those nuts are just pressed zinc plated steel and should not be hard to remove. If nothing else, just crush it with a pair of vice grips and get it off that way. It should not take any real special tools or extravagant method to get them off.
I have removed probably a thousand of those from lids. The biggest issue is the bolt spinning while trying to get them off. In that case, I can wedge a sharp chisel under the nut edge while removing the nut with a drill/Driver or impact driver.

I don't think I have ever had to "cut" one off....but I wouldn't be against that solution either.
 
Thanks for the info.

I have an electric angle grinder on the way. No vice grips or impact wrench yet. Is there a way to use an impact driver as a wrench?

As you can probably tell, I’ve been apartment-dwelling city boy my entire adult life until now, so have to make do with a set of drills, a hammer, and a few other odd pieces until I stock up.
 
Yes, I remove all the bolts on my grills, frozen, rusted or otherwise with a 19.2V craftsman impact wrench. About the biggest bolt and nut you will find on a weber grill is 7/16" nuts and 1/4" bolts. If it won't screw off, it will twist off with the impact wrench.

For starting out and medium to light duty use, Harbor Freight is your friend. You can get a whole lot of tool there for a lot less $$$$.
 
LMichaels said:
Do you have an air compressor? If so get yourself one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...ront-exhaust-air-angle-die-grinder-52848.html and if you don't and you don't intend to do heavy work find a decent 6 gallon one something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...allon-15-hp-150-psi-air-compressor-68149.html
It's far easier to use than drilling a hole in a screw. Also less destructive in case you need to save the screw because it's a "stud". You can then simply cut the nut off it
Click to expand...

The only issue is the compressor is not rated to keep up with the tool. It’s 2.5 CFM and the tool needs 4. Maybe it’s ok for one bolt to get it going?
 
LMichaels said:
Do you have an air compressor? If so get yourself one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...ront-exhaust-air-angle-die-grinder-52848.html and if you don't and you don't intend to do heavy work find a decent 6 gallon one something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...allon-15-hp-150-psi-air-compressor-68149.html
It's far easier to use than drilling a hole in a screw. Also less destructive in case you need to save the screw because it's a "stud". You can then simply cut the nut off it
Click to expand...
Thanks. I actually have an electric grinder on the way already. Do you prefer air powered?
 
Yes I do for various things. Air tools typically are smaller and more powerful for their size than electric. But, electric has it's place as well. I would not worry too much about the "rating". I have a small 6 gallon compressor as well as a large 30 gal high pressure one. I use them equally and have used the smaller one with higher draw tools but for short duration. I.E. those little nuts............you will never get an electric tool of any power in there to do those. You need that little angle grinder to get in there and zip that stuff right off. They can get in, zip through precisely without hurting surrounding material and get out. Plus you're done long before you notice the compressor ran low
 
put some sams club over cleaner on it and let it sit. Sometimes it breaks off some residual crap to loosen it. If you are in a rush, use a angle grinder and go slowly. Don't want to scratch the porcelain.
 
Bruce said:
Yes, I remove all the bolts on my grills, frozen, rusted or otherwise with a 19.2V craftsman impact wrench. About the biggest bolt and nut you will find on a weber grill is 7/16" nuts and 1/4" bolts. If it won't screw off, it will twist off with the impact wrench.

For starting out and medium to light duty use, Harbor Freight is your friend. You can get a whole lot of tool there for a lot less $$$$.
Click to expand...

Bought a 6" wobble socket adapter set for my impact driver from Harbor Freight for $14, and popped on my 7/16" socket. Pulled off the endcaps of a redtop lid in about three minutes. :LOL:

Thanks for the education, and any other n00b reading this if you have an impact driver just get a socket adapter -- don't go through all the effort in my original post!
 
WD-40 works for me for loosening rusty bolts/nuts.
Haven't heard about PB Blaster, will give it a try. Thanks.
 
WD-40 will work on easy to free up hardware, PB Blaster is better, and I've found a mixture of 50% ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and 50% acetone works the best.

The mixture has just a 2 or 3 week shelf life, but it's easy to make up a fresh batch, and no need to make big quantities.
 
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