Smokin' with Lumber?


 
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Garrett Rowe

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Here in Dayton, its almost impossible to find any smoke wood at retail outlets (except the requisite hickory and mesqutie that is sold everywhere). I know I can buy smoke wood off the 'net, but with shipping cost (and the absence of "instant gratification") I am looking for other alternatives. I know a guy at work who makes money on the side by cutting lumber, and he has said I can get my fill for free, however he has yet to come thourgh for me. So my question is, is it safe to smoke with the "untreated" lumber they sell at the big box home improvement stores, or is there anything about the processing of this wood that would make it unfit for cooking. Of course I know never pine. I could get oak 1"x4"x4' for about 6.50 a board, I figure this and a saw could have me in buisiness. Not to mention cedar planks for grilling salmon or pork loin. Somebody please stop me if I'm going to be making all my friends sick. /infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif
 
i'm not sure about using lumber, even if it IS designated as "untreated".

Check with the local county extension office about local orchards, then call the orchard office, and explain that you're looking for a source for very small amounts of wood to add flavor to your barbecue. Ask if they'd happen to have a branch or two of apple/peach/cherry/etc in their deadfall pile for which you could trade them a slab of ribs. We have a truckload of peach stacked out by the log burner, and access to all the apple we want, from this method.

Maybe Mallow's out at Xenia (937-372-1406), Strike's at West Alexandria (787-4542), Suggs' at Eaton (456-5162), or Owens' at Oxford (513-523-5926). Worst they can do is say "no", and at best you have developed a source for free wood and a new friend.

Keri C, smokin on Tulsa Time
 
The only difference between lumberyard wood (kiln dried) and anything you might pick up at a sawmill, an orchard, or split yourself from wood you cut, is that kiln dried wood has been brought to a moisture content of about 8%. In Ohio where you live, wood under roof air dries to about 17% m.c., where it then stabilizes. Thickness of the board determines length of time. A 4/4 board (1" thick) requires a year, an 8/4 board requires 2 years, a 12/4 board requires three years, &c.

That same piece of wood brought indoors and subjected to a winter of central heating will drop in m.c. to about 8 %. You can understand immediately the "value" of kiln drying--an air dried piece of wood at 17% used in furniture will shrink, bust glue joints, expose unfinished surfaces, warp and contort as it is subjected to a winter of central heating before it stabilizes to its new environment. That even happens with kiln dried wood on a smaller scale, as you will notice around the panels in doors that undergo the fluctuations of humidity between summer and winter. These panels are purposely not glued, but float within rails and stiles to minimize expansion and contraction and thereby keep doors fitting reasonably close.

Air dried, a year to 17%. Kiln dried wood comes to a moisture content of 8% within months of being timbered and sawed. Same for 8/4 and 12/4, too, kiln dried. Two or three months stickered after sawing to reach about 20% m.c. and less than a month, depending on the process (solar, electric, etc.) to kiln dry.

Kiln drying is not done with chemicals (except for some woodturners who use chemicals to control and speed the drying of large turnings). It is done with steam and heat. The heat dries the wood while the steam keeps the outside from drying and shrinking faster than the inside does, thereby checking and ruining the commercial worth of the wood.

In short, there is no difference to a wood smoker to concern your health or the effects upon the barbecue between air dried and kiln dried wood except that kiln dried will burn faster. However, wood is hygroscopic, and if you leave kiln dried wood outside under roof, it will again come to about 17% m.c. in the Central Ohio area.

Keri's idea is a good one. If it's expedient to go with lumber, rather than buy it at a lumber yard, where a 4/4 board has become a milled 3/4 board, consider instead buying it from a sawmill where it is still rough-sawed and air dried. Besides, you can buy it in 8/4 thicknesses there--better for q. The board you are paying about 6 dollars a board foot for will cost you about a dollar or less a board foot for hickory at a sawmill.

Incidentally, if you buy hickory at a lumber yard you might just as easily be purchasing pecan because the lumber industry does not really distinguish between them. Not so at a sawmill. You will get exactly what they tell you you are getting.

I would suggest visiting a sawmill. The trimmings from squaring up logs can be had for a little bit of nothing, sometimes just for the hauling, and if you familiarize yourself with tree identification through bark and grain (and every American should consider this ability a point of honor), you can inventory a nice diverse pile of smokewood for very little.

Sorry for length. I hoped an explanation of the process would allay some fears.
 
Keri, thanks for the sugggestions. I guess I haven't exhausted all my "traditional" options. Xenia isn't too far, maybe I'll give them a call Monday.

Dean, don't apologize for the length of the reply, it was fascinating. I am always amazed at the extent of support I can find on this board for almost any topic. Thats one of the reasons I decided to purchace my WSM in the first place. It looks like I have some homework to do. I am no expert in identifying wood based on bark so I'll need to bone up. Thanks all
 
Recently build some furniture for the grandson (crib and high chair) and have some left over hard maple. It has been included in all of my burns thus far. Lots of small bits of 1x4x?. Have a piece of 10/4 x 8 cherry that is tempting but have resisted thus far.
 
Really some great info in this thread. I cann't help but wonder however, why not just pick up a bag of the hickery? I've tried a few differnt woods and truthfully cann't tast the difference between them, well the cherry I could a little.
 
Hi Garrett,

You're not the first one to ask about lumber use, I asked it myself when I joined here. Use of the Find function on this site for Lumber will return a bunch of results for your perusal.

Doug D in this topic made this statement that really stuck in my mind <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> ... avoid anything from a lumber yard because the products there are not necessarily handled with use in food preparation in mind. Same goes for wood from pallets-- whether it may be untreated hardwood, or not-- you never know what was spilled on it during its lifetime of recycling through the transportation industry. Remember, it's what you don't see (or know for certain) that can hurt you. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

There are also some answers to your questions about cedar in the same thread. <don't use it>

Finally, there is lots of info on this website about the subject under Cooking -> All About Smoke Woods.


Cheers
 
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