Rust on the Grates.. (remove)

[Matthew]

I know rust is NEVER good, but how is the easiest/best way to remove it and how do you know if any is left and wont get on the food?

I steel brushed it pretty good, took inside and steel wooled it with some dawn soap and washed it off..

##Do I need to run them on some high heat to get the remaining off?##

 

[ChuckO]

Do I need to run them on some high heat to get the remaining off

Rust is nature's way of saying "it's time for new grates." It's probably the high heat that did your grate in (that's what killed mine) you'll notice that the charcoal grate was the first to rust, and that's fine, no worries with rust on the charcoal grate, but once the food grate rusts, it's time to replace

 

[Matthew]

I got alot of it off... One is better than the other... It is in my mini.. I hadn't used it since Oct. I know right? I wanted to use it for some ribs this past weekend, I may buy a new one for the top.. I will see.. The charcoal grate? well that is FUBAR... but only holds a diffusor..

 

[Charlie L]

I've has some amazing success using a small wire wheel on a drill (corded better but cordless will work).

I've done this on many Craigslist kettles and its the best $4 you can spend. Does a bang up job on Weber vent covers too.

One work of caution: use eyewear and gloves, and be cautious of wire splinters. Sweep up ground after use.

 

[JamieLamb]

I just cleaned up a 1992 18.5" weber kettle (serial number O) last week with a $2 3" wire wheel from Harbor Freight. Bought the grill for $7, so it was worth experimenting on. The people always kept it in their basement, even though it looked like they never cleaned it, and the porcelain coating is in great shape. I just attached the wire wheel to a high speed drill and removed ALL rust from the grates and the bottom wire rack at the base of the legs. The rack on the legs looks brand new. Where there was no rust on the grill grates, it shined it back to a shiny chrome. Where there was rust before, there is no longer a chrome look, but the wire wheel shined it up nicely. Would rather cook on what it is now than a layer of rust. I even wire wheeled inside the lid and in the bottom where the charcoal sits and now the porcelain coating is gleaming. It has wood handles and after refinishing them with stain and polyurethane that I already had you would never know the grill is from 1992. The porcelain coating on these kettles is impressively tough. Not a scratch. Time will tell if moisture will cause the grill grates to re-rust, but so far so good.

 

[Charlie L]

I just cleaned up a 1992 18.5" weber kettle (serial number O) last week with a $2 3" wire wheel from Harbor Freight. Bought the grill for $7, so it was worth experimenting on. The people always kept it in their basement, even though it looked like they never cleaned it, and the porcelain coating is in great shape. I just attached the wire wheel to a high speed drill and removed ALL rust from the grates and the bottom wire rack at the base of the legs. The rack on the legs looks brand new. Where there was no rust on the grill grates, it shined it back to a shiny chrome. Where there was rust before, there is no longer a chrome look, but the wire wheel shined it up nicely. Would rather cook on what it is now than a layer of rust. I even wire wheeled inside the lid and in the bottom where the charcoal sits and now the porcelain coating is gleaming. It has wood handles and after refinishing them with stain and polyurethane that I already had you would never know the grill is from 1992. The porcelain coating on these kettles is impressively tough. Not a scratch. Time will tell if moisture will cause the grill grates to re-rust, but so far so good.

Do you have any before and after photos of the handles?
I just snagged one about that age in good shape but the wood handles are fairly weathered. I would like to rehab them if possible and would love to get some ideas.

 

[JamieLamb]

Do you have any before and after photos of the handles?
I just snagged one about that age in good shape but the wood handles are fairly weathered. I would like to rehab them if possible and would love to get some ideas.

I wish I had before pics, but I got motivated one day and just started doing it. By the time I finally thought about it, it was too late. I sanded them down with 220 grit sand paper and tried to leave as much of the original logo as possible (or at least what there was still remaining). Once all the gray was off of them, I could tell they could be saved. I wasn't so concerned with them looking brand new, so I just used a small sharpie and darkended the logo a little before refinishing them. These handles were weathered pretty badly, but after adding the sanding, stain (honey oak) and poly, they look pretty good. I sanded between coats of poly so they are really smooth. One of the handles had at one point been on fire (luckily not the front piece with the logo), so I just flipped that piece upside down upon reinstall and you can't even tell. I will try and post a pic when I get a chance.

 

[timothy]

I know rust is NEVER good, but how is the easiest/best way to remove it and how do you know if any is left and wont get on the food?

I steel brushed it pretty good, took inside and steel wooled it with some dawn soap and washed it off..

##Do I need to run them on some high heat to get the remaining off?##

Depends if it's just surface rust or deep pitted rust. If the nickel plating is still in good shape then wipe it down with a slightly oiled paper towel. You can see the color of the rust as you wipe it on the towel, repeat till the towel looks fairly clean.
Rust is just oxidized iron, and a little iron in our diet is good, just like cooking on CI cookware.

Tim