Resistance of Q2400 heating element?
- Thread starter Ralph
- Start date
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
While I don't have an electric Q anymore, from what I know of electrical heating elements that sounds about right on
Wouldn’t you do a continuity check like the heating element in an electric range to see if heating element is ok?
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Yep about the same thing
Nothing is wrong with the element. If it's not heating correctly, the heat controller is likely bad. It's probably cutting power to the element too early.
Ralph
TVWBB Fan
Thank you- are you comparing to a known good element?
In my back and forth with Weber, they said that the controller is fine since it lights up when not plugged into the element. I'm not sure they're right.
Kind of irritated with Weber at this point- they were more than happy to take my order for a new element (which I'm reluctant to do at this point). This grill is just over two years old- it was put away after 16 months when my FIL passed, I recently took it out of storage and no go.
In my back and forth with Weber, they said that the controller is fine since it lights up when not plugged into the element. I'm not sure they're right.
Kind of irritated with Weber at this point- they were more than happy to take my order for a new element (which I'm reluctant to do at this point). This grill is just over two years old- it was put away after 16 months when my FIL passed, I recently took it out of storage and no go.
That's based on my calculations and a few minor assumptions. I'm pretty sure your element is fine. Do you have a current clamp that can measure the current? If the Q won't heat up sufficiently, but the current periodically goes to 0amps, the controller is bad.
LMichaels
TVWBB 1-Star Olympian
Yeah, by it's nature resistance of those elements are quite low by nature. Usually only a few ohms at most. Which is how it then draws enough current (typically close to 15 amps on a 115V system), to get that much heat 115Vx13,5 amps= A little more than 1550 Watts. Which IIRC is the rating on them
Ed P
TVWBB Platinum Member
Heating elements have a low resistance initially and the resistance increases as they heat up. You have continuity (the element isn't "burned out") so I would suspect the controller. The controller has two recessed contacts for the element and the third thing sticking out is the temperature sensor. The contacts for the element are recessed because they carry the AC voltage for the element. Typically there is a triac involved that switches the current off and on to the element. The element is a simple passive device (it really doesn't do anything except get hot) so my bet would be on a bad contact to the element, or, rarely, the controller...that is, unless the controller was submerged in water at some point. I would inspect the contacts in the controller and then disassemble the controller.
GrantT
TVWBB Pro
Resistance of the element:
(Voltage)^2 / Wattage = (120v)^2/1560 = 9.2 Ohms
Element seems OK. Are you actually getting 120(ish) volts to the element is the next question.
Have you tried it on a different electrical outlet (or a different extension cord etc.)? A safety thing, but it it DOES work on another outlet, you may have a very poor electrical connection on the current one which can indicate a poor connection somewhere on that circuit and a fire hazard as that power is heating something else up if it is not going to the BBQ.
Alternatively, as moving a BBQ can be a pain, try plugging in another high power draw appliance (power saw, electric griddle etc) and see if they work.
(Voltage)^2 / Wattage = (120v)^2/1560 = 9.2 Ohms
Element seems OK. Are you actually getting 120(ish) volts to the element is the next question.
Have you tried it on a different electrical outlet (or a different extension cord etc.)? A safety thing, but it it DOES work on another outlet, you may have a very poor electrical connection on the current one which can indicate a poor connection somewhere on that circuit and a fire hazard as that power is heating something else up if it is not going to the BBQ.
Alternatively, as moving a BBQ can be a pain, try plugging in another high power draw appliance (power saw, electric griddle etc) and see if they work.
Last edited:
Ralph
TVWBB Fan
Update and success!
While the status light on the in-line GFCI did light up, the test and reset switches didn't do anything. Based on others' input that the element was OK (despite what Weber said in their diagnosis), I took the GFCI apart (needed a small square drive). There were a few corroded components inside- perhaps getting intermittent or limited power out. I bypassed the GFCI (for now), and controller works fine and element heats up. I found a replacement in-line GFCI on Amazon that looks identical, with 15A capacity; I'll order one this week and button everything back up.
Thanks to all for their input.
While the status light on the in-line GFCI did light up, the test and reset switches didn't do anything. Based on others' input that the element was OK (despite what Weber said in their diagnosis), I took the GFCI apart (needed a small square drive). There were a few corroded components inside- perhaps getting intermittent or limited power out. I bypassed the GFCI (for now), and controller works fine and element heats up. I found a replacement in-line GFCI on Amazon that looks identical, with 15A capacity; I'll order one this week and button everything back up.
Thanks to all for their input.