I'm worried the small tabs which prevent overtravel of the vents are going to snap off. I've had to tap them back into place; at some point, they're going to break.
They are for your convenience so you don't have to kneel down to observe the opening.
Just go easy with them and "feel" for the "stop".
For a top vent, having stops doesn't matter much to me because it's easy to see the openings, but for bottom vents they are a nice feature.
Anybody else replace those bottom vents?
Yes, I bought a used WSM that was handled very roughly.
All of the bottom vents were bent up like they were run over by a truck.
1) Carefully drill out the OEM rivet from the INSIDE of the bowl.
2) Replacement vents are available and are sold in a 3-pack for about $12
3) The slot-head bolts supplied in these kits are too big to nest properly in the recess (on the bigger vents) and are just plain ugly.
Toss 'em and use 1/4-20 "Button Head Cap Screws"
The lock nuts supplied by Weber are OK
Add a flat (cut) washer under the lock nut for better function.
Tighten just enough to give good feel when opening/closing.
DO NOT USE LOCK WASHERS...you want the locking action to take place within the nut so your adjustment won't be lost after repeated uses.
When done they will look like this...same size head as the OEM rivet.
This button head is stainless steel.
Here's one nested in the recess of the 4 hole vent.
The heads on the Weber supplied bolts in the kits are too big to do this.
Edit:
If you need to remove a vent to straighten it or shape it better, use a "Gripco" type lock nut for best results when reassembling.
Gripco is a trade name for a "deformed" nut and it does not need a Nylon insert like a Nylock nut.
