Pro Q stackers won't fit


 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">My idea is to take a Sawzall to it and see how the lid fits then </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Try a very tall bulding,or fill w/ concrete and drop off very long pier.
Just a couple of ideas for proper usage.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JRPfeff:
The lid fits okay to begin, but sticks before it seats on the lower flange area... My idea is to take a Sawzall to it and see how the lid fits then.

Any thoughts on this idea? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you cut off the top part, won't you just be left with the part that sticks?
 
As far as I can tell there is nothing that can be done to the stackers that will make them work right. Sure, I crimped the top so that I can put the lid on but that will not keep the steam and gunk from reaching the outside surface of the smoker. I hope the Cajun Bandit stackers are out soon as they should be engineered correctly and work with no leaks.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jake S:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JRPfeff:
The lid fits okay to begin, but sticks before it seats on the lower flange area... My idea is to take a Sawzall to it and see how the lid fits then.

Any thoughts on this idea? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you cut off the top part, won't you just be left with the part that sticks? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The lid doesn't stick until it slides on the Slacker a bit. I think it gets stuck on the curve of the dome.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by LDThornton:
As far as I can tell there is nothing that can be done to the stackers that will make them work right. Sure, I crimped the top so that I can put the lid on but that will not keep the steam and gunk from reaching the outside surface of the smoker. I hope the Cajun Bandit stackers are out soon as they should be engineered correctly and work with no leaks. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I'm not trying to deal with the drips, I just don't want the lid to stick.

As far as steam and gunk go, I'll probably avoid putting water in the water pan. That will reduce the mess on the Slacker. Any drips on the Slacker will go back inside the middle section of the WSM when they reach its lip. So the WSM itself shouldn't get nasty.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JRPfeff:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jake S:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JRPfeff:
The lid fits okay to begin, but sticks before it seats on the lower flange area... My idea is to take a Sawzall to it and see how the lid fits then.

Any thoughts on this idea? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you cut off the top part, won't you just be left with the part that sticks? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The lid doesn't stick until it slides on the Slacker a bit. I think it gets stuck on the curve of the dome. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I was wrong. It sticks at the base of the lid. That Stacker is an engineering marvel. What a POS.
 
HERE is what I did with mine.

It is a very tight fit.

My plan is to cut holes in the top and mount rotisserie brackets to it from an old Barbegues Galore grill that is long gone but I saved the rotisserie, motor and mounting brackets for an occasion like this.

I will post pictures if I ever get time to do it.

I am in the process of building a UDS also.
 
I have purchased 3 of those Pro Q WSM stackers and yes for what they are designed for they are a BPOS.

I have had great succes flipping them over and re-locating thehardware to support a waterbowl and rack and either use it under the WSM center or use it with an 18.5 webernwith the same flip mod.

The little Flip mod on a Weber 18.5 works great, I even put in an additional rack so I have 2 and while they are close together (about 4.5") you can still use them for ribs and wings and such.

I used a Jumbo Joe for the base added the Pro Q flip mod stacker and the lid from the Jumbo Jo and I have a smoker that c=is realy efficient in both holding heat and using charcoal.

If I want lit and forget smoking this little fella does the job better than any, but you cant put too much on it with the shorter racks or you can remove the top rack and have 1 tall rack

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4...t-72157622421295822/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4...s/72157622304498387/
 
I am finally trying out my 18.5" WSM with the two ProQ stackers. I just got it up and running with 4 pork butts inside. I also have my Nu-Temp remote temperature sensor stuck in the bottom pork butt to measure internal meat temp which is now only 73F. Like I said, Just got it together. I'm also using a Brinkman 2 gallon charcoal pan filled with hot water in place of the Weber water pan. Here are a few bad pics of the setup.
IMG_0003-1.jpg

IMG_0001-2.jpg

IMG_0002-1.jpg


Lid temp is only 200F and has a while to go before it gets up to cooking temp. So far I think this set up is working very well. I hope nobody steals my pork butts again! Keeping a daylight eye on them from now on.....Lonnie
 
Smoker has been running for about 8.5 hours now. Smoker lid temperature is about 230F and the internal pork butt temp is 179F. I figure to reach about 205F internal temp on the pork butts in about 3 hours. The Nu-Temp wireless thermometer is doing great but earlier I realised that there was a difference between the base station temp and the remote sensor temp. I replaced the batteries in the base station and temps between the two units are now the same. This set up does use a bit more Kingsford than a straight Weber WSM. So far I've used about 25# with all the vents wide open to obtain proper lid temp to achieve cooking temperature of 230F. I don't expect to use any more charcoal for this cook because everything is working as expected.....Lonnie
 
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