Painting the Mini WSM

[BrianBeck]

Hello!

Wow - I feel so fortunate to have found this site and these threads on the Mini WSM - thank you so much for the inspiration! I found a SJG on Craigslist for $15, and the Vasconia tamale pot on Amazon used for $28. I'm getting ready to go, and I've been reading everything I can for countless hours on the Mini, and smoking. I've read the entire 100+ page original thread plus the everything in this forum.

I'll still probably have a few questions - namely what to expect with high altitude smoking - I live at about 5,439 ft and it jacks everything up here - especially pizza and other breads. We also often camp at 8-10000 ft in the summer, so there's that. I'll focus on that question later when I get rolling, though.

I aboslutely LOVE J Pichey's Steelers Mini and want to do something similar. That is just flippin' gorgeous! I found the VHT engine enamels some have used, but how are they holding up for you guys using them? Is there something you'd now recommend that's different. Also, I can't figure out what primer and clear coat to use - any help is very much appreciated!

 

[Remi]

Welcome, Brian! This site is great and has lots to offer. I have already built my mini and have enjoyed using it. I have the same questions you have about painting the mini. Thanks for taking the initiative - I look forward to learning what others can share.

 

[Chad Bman]

Since I'm only 300 feet above sea level, I can't comment on your elevation.
Painting the mini is something I can lend a hand on. I'm sure you saw my thread, but to elaborate.

I got to this result...
.

.
By using their gray Engine Enamel primer
.

.
Shot the grill logo area with a reddish color metallic paint.
NOTE - The metallic paint, while cool looking, is a pain in the arse. I think I shot 5 or 6 coats on everything with the red color. Next time, I'll just stick to the solid colors.
.

.
After that dried for 7+ days (follow directions) I installed the decal over the red paint and shot the pot with 2 coats of gloss black
.

.
To me, it looked pretty dang good (and shiny) so I skipped the clear coat. After 7 days, I cured the paint by firing it up and tried to mimic their baking/cooling instructions. It wasn't a speedy process by any means, but patience is key here. I couldn't be any happier with the results.

Note from Moderator: Replaced broken photo of VHT SP124 Engine Enamel Gloss Black

 

[BrianBeck]

Awesome, Chad. Thanks so much for the tips, and your mini looks like it was made by Weber. This solves my primer problem, and I'll be sure not to go with the metallic. I also like the idea of not using the clear coat if it will hold up without. How has the whole paint job been holding up after a few smokes?

 

[Chad Bman]

So far so good. I have a chicken in the fridge that'll be hitting the mini possibly tomorrow.

I picked up a 22.5 OTG for 20 bucks (they said it was a 26.75 for $60) and decided the silver ring/bucket wasn't my style.
.

.
I shot the ring/handle/bucket with left over primer
.

.
And added some color. LOVE the way it came out. Only I sold it for 75 bucks... lol
.

 

[BrianBeck]

Damn, Man - that is a super nice paint job!

 

[Chad Bman]

I fired up the mini again this evening for a brined chicken cook. If I had to do it again, I'd use a clear coat after removing the decals. (and lightly sanding) The ridges are pretty sharp from the paint/bare pot, but she still looks like new. A clear coat or 3 would help soften those ridges and make cleaning easier. (which I'm yet to do)

Yeah, I was super happy with the paint job on that kettle ash assembly. Gave me ideas for my Performer...

 

[BrianBeck]

I too am thinking of going with a clear coat - what exactly would you recommend?

Also - is there a reason you wouldn't want to use all Flameproof paints?

 

[Chad Bman]

I used what Auto Zone had on the shelf. Since the mini doesn't get ~that~ hot, I don't thing there's a difference between the paints.
Had I been smart enough, I would have grabbed what clear coat they had also.

 

[George Curtis]

with all you guys painting things i keep considering it. they look awesome. but my stupid practicle side of my brain keeps going back to what they will look like as paint goes bad and the inevitable chips and peeling start. so i'll just keep mine stock. i hope i'm proven wrong what with all the labor is put into this.

 

[BrianBishop]

I too am thinking of going with a clear coat - what exactly would you recommend?

Also - is there a reason you wouldn't want to use all Flameproof paints?

The "Flame Proof" is overkill as its rated 1300-2000 degrees... The Engine Enamel is rated to 550. The max temp the pot is to be seeing is likely in the 300 range so they should be plenty sufficient. I followed many before me in the paint selection and I've yet to hear issues with the engine enamel not holding up to the low and slow temps these minis are made for. Hopefully it stays that way, but I will certainly keep you posted on how mine holds up.

I haven't used it yet as I'm doing ribs this weekend so the 22.5 is better suited for the job. I think I will do a chicken thighs cook in it this coming week to break it in with a slightly higher heat cook (275-300 range)

 

[BrianBeck]

Very good to know that the flame proof is overkill and that yours have been holding up with the 550 degree stuff - thanks!

 

[Carl Johnson]

mini wsm painting question

I am about to paint my mini wsm and have a primer question. I purchased Dupli-Color MC203 Green Metal Cast Anodized Color - 11 oz. that is good to 500 degrees. It's a nice shade of green for my Oregon Ducks design. Go Ducks! My questions is - Do I need to prime the pot with black/gray primer before I apply the dupli-color paint?

UPDATE: I actually read the fine print on the dupli-color can (needed a magnifying glass...) and realized that the annodized look works best over bare metal. goes on transparent. looks cool but will require lots of coats to build up the color.

 

[BrianBishop]

Maybe that "flameproof" paint isn't such a bad idea

A small update and word of caution. I made some wings a couple weeks ago in the mini using my homemade lump charcoal and wide open vents going for high heat. This has been my method plenty of times but in this instance, I forgot to put the lid back on the mini after pulling the wings off and went inside to eat. This obviously gave me a raging hot fire below the steamer pot and it caused the paint to flake on the lower section of the pot. Thankfully it will be a quick fix as its only affected below the lip for the steamer tray. All I'll have to do is sand or scrape off the affected section, mask off the upper section and give it a couple coats of black.



The blemish at the lip for the steam tray is actually one I made during transport a couple months ago that I wanted to fix anyway so now I have a winter project

 

[Rich Langer]

Shot the grill logo area with a reddish color metallic paint.
NOTE - The metallic paint, while cool looking, is a pain in the arse. I think I shot 5 or 6 coats on everything with the red color. Next time, I'll just stick to the solid colors.

Many of us have had good results with VHT Caliper Paint SP731 Real Red 11 oz Spray which is available online (amazon, walmart, etc) or your local car parts place.

 

[Mike_L (Big Mike)]

I'm going to reopen this older post since it is about painting. I think i read some of you guys have used the grey primer and others have not used any primer at all. Can you get away without priming the pot? Or should i do that? Do you sand the primer down after with 400 grit? I'm doing a simple Steelers logo so i'm only doing black. I seen a lot of people are using the VHT Engine Enamel with the clear coat after. Just wasn't sure about the primer. One image looked liked you used the primer to make it grey, but then the pot looked silver again after you sanded it. Just a bit confused.