New E320 Purchase - Rust advice needed

[PeterKrogh]

I picked up a 2006 Genesis 320 a couple weeks in really nice condition (manufacture date says 2006, but looks like the model introduced in 2007). Basic Condition:
Looks nice from the outside, everything works, (gets to 650 easily), grates in fine shape, burners good, flavor bars need replacing, some rusted screws I've mostly taken care of. It will be my grill, not rehabbing for sale.

There are several rust issues to address:
Here is it with the thermometer removed for cleaning. Not bad for 16 years old.

1 - Top Chips
There are two chips on the top, mostly under the chrome, but poking out a little. Does not look like there is much rust yet, but I'd like to fix. I took the chrome off to inspect and shot photos. I assume that I need to brush/sand/grind a small area and paint with High Heat Rustoleum gloss black.
I've been poking around the site, but have not found a comprehensive guide to refinishing the top lid.

• Is this worth doing now if there is no significant sign of rust?
• I assume no primer
• Anybody have video on how to blend for a small spot paint?

2 Bottom panel and legs
You can also see that there is some rust on the left hand bottom and vertical supports. I am planning on peeling off the small amount of really flaky stuff, and hitting the rest with Eastwood spray rust converter. I also plan on spraying this up the leg tubes to catch whatever I can reach.

• Is there a standard choice for matching the grey topcoat of the panels?
• I have some spare angle irons that I am considering as an added support for the left hand bottom.
• There is one pretty rusted out area there under the support for the grease catcher. I was thinking of trying the rust converter there and see what happens.
• I assume the entire bottom should be painted, top and bottom, as well s any rust that is exposed when I take it apart.
• I assume that I take the old bolts and nut clips out and replace with something stainless - maybe just a nut and washers.

I was thinking I could run this along the entire left hand side for extra support one I convert the rust and paint. (Short piece shown to show fit)
3 Door magnets
Totally disintegrated. I have not seen these as spare parts anywhere. Are they replaceable?

 

[Bill Pudim]

You’re at the right place, Genesis Heaven…

 

[Steve Hoch]

Welcome to the forum Peter! There are a lot of examples of genesis 300 series on here that people have done great restorations on. Here's a couple pictures of a couple different ways it was approached.

 

[LMichaels]

Rather than worry about matching the OEM gray, pick one you like and do the whole thing. Way easier. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator will become your best friend.

 

[Bruce]

I picked up a 2006 Genesis 320 a couple weeks in really nice condition (manufacture date says 2006, but looks like the model introduced in 2007). Basic Condition:
Looks nice from the outside, everything works, (gets to 650 easily), grates in fine shape, burners good, flavor bars need replacing, some rusted screws I've mostly taken care of. It will be my grill, not rehabbing for sale.

There are several rust issues to address:
Here is it with the thermometer removed for cleaning. Not bad for 16 years old.

1 - Top Chips
There are two chips on the top, mostly under the chrome, but poking out a little. Does not look like there is much rust yet, but I'd like to fix. I took the chrome off to inspect and shot photos. I assume that I need to brush/sand/grind a small area and paint with High Heat Rustoleum gloss black.
I've been poking around the site, but have not found a comprehensive guide to refinishing the top lid.

• Is this worth doing now if there is no significant sign of rust?
• I assume no primer
• Anybody have video on how to blend for a small spot paint?

I would get some high heat gloss black paint and touch them up. If you don't have rust already in the chips, then don't mess with grinding or sanding. Just clean it up and paint over the chips.

2 Bottom panel and legs
You can also see that there is some rust on the left hand bottom and vertical supports. I am planning on peeling off the small amount of really flaky stuff, and hitting the rest with Eastwood spray rust converter. I also plan on spraying this up the leg tubes to catch whatever I can reach.

• Is there a standard choice for matching the grey topcoat of the panels?

Most use Rustoleum Massey Furgusen gray. It is a near perfect match.

• I have some spare angle irons that I am considering as an added support for the left hand bottom.

I would be careful about doing that. If you do, make sure the grill panels and the angle iron are well painted as it will be a place for moisture to collect and rust. That is why you see the rust on the seams of the existing grill panels.

• There is one pretty rusted out area there under the support for the grease catcher. I was thinking of trying the rust converter there and see what happens.

Try it, but it might need some more remediation to be a real fix.

• I assume the entire bottom should be painted, top and bottom, as well s any rust that is exposed when I take it apart.

Grind all rust spots including areas you can see bubble from rust under the paint. Then repaint the whole thing.

• I assume that I take the old bolts and nut clips out and replace with something stainless - maybe just a nut and washers.

That would be a good idea

I was thinking I could run this along the entire left hand side for extra support one I convert the rust and paint. (Short piece shown to show fit)
3 Door magnets
Totally disintegrated. I have not seen these as spare parts anywhere. Are they replaceable?

Not sure on the door magnets. Might be your best bet is to find some to grab off another grill. Maybe a hardware store has something you could make work.

 

[LMichaels]

One other thought a cheap angle grinder from Harbor Freight will be your best friend as well soon. Don't do too much to the hood. You can actually do more harm than good if you damage the porcelain. A good way to treat those little non showing chipped areas is simply treat them with a little oil. (not veg oil but "real" oil). Once heated up it will sink into the metal and seal it up

 

[DTrinh]

I have a Genesis E310 from 2010 with alot of the same issues as you. My bottom panel was very rusted out. No way am i spending $150 on a new bottom panel, and I'm not ready to convert my panel to wood slats although that does look like a great option once more rust develops on my unit.

I used an angle grinder w/ brush cup, sanded off all the loose paint and rust and sprayed it w/ primer, and used epoxy putty to fill in the rust holes. alot of people suggest the cheapo harbor freight angle grinder. If you have any battery power tools, I suggest you pick a battery powered angle grinder with whatever existing brand drill batteries you have, as it will be a very veratile tool. I boughy my battery powered ryobi angle grinder for about 50 bucks.

I used VHT Cast iron (autozone) for my firebox and krylon high heat silver (lowes) for my panel pieces. It's not a perfect match for factory but I searched everywhere, online and brick and mortar for massey ferguson grey as has been documented on this forum and it's no where to be found at the moment.

 

[Bob H.]

Grills are a lot like cars when it comes to rust. The garage kept cars seem to look nicer and last longer than the
ones that sit outside all the time. In my experience the grills that are kept in the garage, or a shed don't seem
to rust as easily. Just make sure they are fully cooled before placing them into indoor storage.

 

[PeterKrogh]

Thanks everyone. I have ground off the rust on all the support pieces and treated with rust converter. Will topcoat tomorrow. I have put the grill top off for a little bit since it's easy to remove and work on later. It looks like the rust where the grease catcher meets the bottom panel is pretty compromised. I will use some big washers and through-bolt it. Not afraid to replace it with Cedar or some other wood if the time comes.

This grill lives on a screen porch and wheels out to a deck to cook (or stays in the porch if it is raining), so it will not get a lot of rain.
As to the chips in the hood, Bruce, are you suggesting taping it off at the edge of the chip so I don't get any overspray?

All in all, not a huge amount of work to get this ready to go back in service with the rust addressed reasonably well.

 

[Bruce]

Peter, actually, I would spray some paint into a cup and use a small artist paint brush or even a Q-Tip to apply it to just the area needed.

 

[PeterKrogh]

Okay, that sounds good.