My Genesis 1000 project


 
Thanks, Eric,
So I bought the rubbing compound, and went to work on the frame tonight. The turtle wax compound wasn’t any more serious than the 3M I already had, even though it was a thicker paste. I Worked through the progressions (no wax) of my elixirs from the previous post, and it looks about as good as it’s going to get.
To be sure it looked as good as I thought it did, I mocked it up to see what would also be visible.
I’m pretty happy, though there are a couple of places I’ll focus on again.
Tomorrow, my son and I are buying new hardware.
We’ll “disassemble” the mock- up, and take those wheels and axle off.

I just plier the caps off and pull, is what I understand?
I’ll try to refurbish/ paint those 8” wheels as best I can.
I do have a NOS 8” wheel and cap coming, which I’ll put on the front facing side. That way, if I screw up the back wheel, I’ll have an extra.

Cheers for a great evening wherever you all are!
 

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I just plier the caps off and pull, is what I understand?
I’ll try to refurbish/ paint those 8” wheels as best I can.
I do have a NOS 8” wheel and cap coming, which I’ll put on the front facing side. That way, if I screw up the back wheel, I’ll have an extra.
You just need to pull off one cap really. Then you can put the axle in your drill and use sandpaper to shine the axle up. You can clear coat the axle to keep it shiny longer. I still a have a set of brand new 8" wheels so I can tell you that there is very little difference in appearance between the ones I repaint and re white wall vs. the brand new ones that I'm saving for my next high level Genesis 1000 restoration. Here's a pic of a restored set.IMG_20250510_043924888.jpgIMG_20250422_202227724.jpg
 
That frame looks beautiful especially being the original finish. The polish is a great idea. Everything on that grill looks like it had a gentle life and you and your son are making it even more stunning.
 
You just need to pull off one cap really. Then you can put the axle in your drill and use sandpaper to shine the axle up. You can clear coat the axle to keep it shiny longer. I still a have a set of brand new 8" wheels so I can tell you that there is very little difference in appearance between the ones I repaint and re white wall vs. the brand new ones that I'm saving for my next high level Genesis 1000 restoration. Here's a pic of a restored set.View attachment 118205View attachment 118206I did not see a thread about this, thank you very much for sharing! How can I learn what to do, please?
Thanks again!
 
Thanks again!
You're welcome. I know when I restore a grill I really pay a lot of attention to every detail, I need the grill to work and look as close to a brand new one as possible. I certainly don't expect everyone to take the same approach that I do, but I'm more than happy to share what I've learned with anyone who's interested in doing it better than a basic clean up and reassembly.
 
Honestly, I reached out to the rcplanebuyer on eBay, after trying to find him as recommended through Craigslist.
he was significantly higher than purchasing from the Weber dealer who has helped me get my hardware this far.
Anyway, not in a huge hurry, but I’m seriously considering these.
 

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You might hear some debating on grate recommendations. I prefer well seasoned cast iron. I have bought a couple of sets on Amazon that I have really liked to fit my Genesis 1000 redhead like yours and also for a Silver B. I also have cast iron on my two burner Silver A. They sear nicely and retain heat well. However many experts prefer high quality stainless steel made with 8mm solid ss rod. Stainless steel rod grates are easier to clean than cast iron and will last longer over time. I'm sure other forum members will have their preferences. Ultimately it's up to you and what you want but so far your restoration is looking so good I don't think you could go wrong with any choice you make on grates.
 
Honestly, I reached out to the rcplanebuyer on eBay, after trying to find him as recommended through Craigslist.
he was significantly higher than purchasing from the Weber dealer who has helped me get my hardware this far.
Anyway, not in a huge hurry, but I’m seriously considering these.
Nothing wrong with those. I don't really like the center support bar but those are pretty nice for the money. I have purchased Zbars from RCplanebuyer in the past and he does do fantastic work. I've been a fan of Weber stamped stainless steel grates for years so that's always been my go to for my own grills.
 
You might hear some debating on grate recommendations. I prefer well seasoned cast iron. I have bought a couple of sets on Amazon that I have really liked to fit my Genesis 1000 redhead like yours and also for a Silver B. I also have cast iron on my two burner Silver A. They sear nicely and retain heat well. However many experts prefer high quality stainless steel made with 8mm solid ss rod. Stainless steel rod grates are easier to clean than cast iron and will last longer over time. I'm sure other forum members will have their preferences. Ultimately it's up to you and what you want but so far your restoration is looking so good I don't think you could go wrong with any choice you make on grates.
Exactly Val. Grates are a very personal choice. I don't like cast iron, but I don't expect anyone to care what I think when it comes to cooking grates. Just get what you want and cook.
 
So, just a thought…
The first places of surface rust (and following progression) are at points of friction and joints with heat.
That cannot be made better by the fluctuation of high temperatures around the cookbox, which is where the worst occurs?
What if we applied a thin bbq gasket to the frame surrounding the cookbox? Would not be visible…
I have leftover Big Green Egg gasket and intend to try that out to protect the frame after the hours and elbow grease I’ve invested.
My only concern is the thickness of the gasket impacting the nuts and bolts attaching the box to the frame.
 
Exactly Val. Grates are a very personal choice. I don't like cast iron, but I don't expect anyone to care what I think when it comes to cooking grates. Just get what you want and cook.
Steve, maybe you can help me out with grates - I have a set of original Weber stamped stainless steel grates in pretty good shape. I want to try them out but in two places the upper struts separated from the cross members. They seem to lay flat ok though. Can a failed junction point be secured or do you just leave it be?
 
Steve, maybe you can help me out with grates - I have a set of original Weber stamped stainless steel grates in pretty good shape. I want to try them out but in two places the upper struts separated from the cross members. They seem to lay flat ok though. Can a failed junction point be secured or do you just leave it be?
Val, most of these grates are over twenty years old at this point. If I come across them and they are warped or have broken welds, I just throw them away. The messed up ones are usually on pretty messed up grills, I know it's not the grates' fault. Unless you can weld or know someone who can, I would just move on.
 
So, just a thought…
The first places of surface rust (and following progression) are at points of friction and joints with heat.
That cannot be made better by the fluctuation of high temperatures around the cookbox, which is where the worst occurs?
What if we applied a thin bbq gasket to the frame surrounding the cookbox? Would not be visible…
I have leftover Big Green Egg gasket and intend to try that out to protect the frame after the hours and elbow grease I’ve invested.
My only concern is the thickness of the gasket impacting the nuts and bolts attaching the box to the frame.
Give it a try. I see rust in many different locations on these frames unfortunately. It ranges from just a little that you can sand down to this frame is going to the scrappers.
 

 

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