mouser substitute 28DIP header-backordered

[John Bostwick]

For those that are ordering their kits from mouser, they are currently out of stock on the 28DIP header for atmega328. Its on backorder.


For a perfectly good substitute use two 14DIP header (mouser#571-1-2199298-3). Its actually cheaper to get two of them instead of 1 28DIP.

To help with keeping them inline when soldering them to the hm. Take and break off two 4 pieces of the header for the lcd and insert them into the pin slots to keep the alignment good for the atmega328, if needed.

 

[Jay Werner]

Would this be the substitute at Digi-Key? ED281DT

 

[John Bostwick]

yeah, Digikey has it the 28DIP for .31 and you can get 2 14DIP versions for .28 cents

 

[Jay Werner]

Good because I ordered the digi-key to match the mouser. Cost a few more pennies but wanted to match the original material list. I'm not an electrical engineer, just an electrician.

 

[Jay Werner]

I'm smart, just not that smart☺ I soldered in the thermocouple circuit today and..........what a pain in the ........ I've built tube amplifiers before but surface mounting resistors and chips that small is ridiculous! I tested the circuit per instructions and flew with flying colors but if you are new to soldering just order the pre-mounted board from Bryan. Save yourself the frustration! For those of you who make it look so easy, kudos to you. Takes me longer with these gorilla hands.

 

[John Bostwick]

Jay, i know your feelings, this was also my first time soldering the smd parts. After a few boards they are actually much faster then thru-hole parts. But, the first time i had to solder the cap and resisters they went flying to locations unknown, never to be found. The amp needed to be resolder a few times to get it straight. Now, i just add a little solder on one pad and use bent needle nose tweezers, to hold the part straight and touch the soldering iron to it. Then if the amp is still straight, add alot of solder to cover the pads on the opposite side of the first pad you used to hold the amp to the board. Then once the 4 pins are covered with alot of solder, you do the same for the other side and then use solder braid to wick up the excessive solder on both sides of the amp until the pins appear to be free of solder. You should be left with a perfectly soldered tc amp. I then use a meter to double check the pins to make sure, if not use the wick again and check again.

 

[Jay Werner]

That's exactly what I did but discovered the braid trick o. Accident. I was trying to desolder the amp with the braid and noticed how clean the pins were. Did it to the other side and it looked just as good. Tested it and everything checked out. I watched a video on YouTube that taught surface mounting techniques but I don't remember seeing the technique with the copper braid. Putting Flux directly on the braid first to desolder helps tremendously. I got lucky and didn't lose any parts, but I can see why they say to order extras!