LMichaels
TVWBB 2-Star Olympian
OK so as promised showing some photos of the inside of what would be a Professional 600 or it's derivatives. Followed by photos of the drive train from the 7/8qt type. The thing to pay attention to is on the 7/8qt type drive train is how small the motor is (thanks to rare earth permanent magnets) and the overall size of the gear train in comparison to the Pro600 type. First up the Pro 600 type
You will note this uses a worm drive system. The main failure points being the intersection of the motor drive gear and the spur gear, and then to the worm "follower". I also included photos of the inside of the upper gear box and showing the size of the motor and it's speed feedback system. Typically (thanks to the awful lube KA uses) the worm follower will start to wear prematurely. This will force the rest of the bearings and gears out of alignment, eventually pieces will snap off and VERY loud awful noises will erupt. I recently worked on one where they ignored the noises, kept pushing it and the shaft with the 2 support and thrust bearings actually welded themselves together. Have actually never seen one more destroyed.
The above set shows the exterior (sorry I did not take any photos while this one was opened) but, the cylinder with the cable tie on it is the actual motor. Very compact and very quiet. In front of it you see there are actually 2 gear boxes. The first being a reduction planetary set, the next a 90 deg similar to say your car's differential. Both gear boxes are fully sealed (so I can use the best lubes for the job with no food issues), and also both are WAY more robust than necessary so. literally the motor will go into a self shutoff mode (thanks to thermal breaker) LONG before it can damage the gear box. Unlike the other where the motor is WAY more powerful than the gear box so by the time you've gotten it hot enough to go into a thermal protection the gear system is pretty well damaged. Again these are not meant to be a "how to" in any way. Simply educational on the differences.
You will note this uses a worm drive system. The main failure points being the intersection of the motor drive gear and the spur gear, and then to the worm "follower". I also included photos of the inside of the upper gear box and showing the size of the motor and it's speed feedback system. Typically (thanks to the awful lube KA uses) the worm follower will start to wear prematurely. This will force the rest of the bearings and gears out of alignment, eventually pieces will snap off and VERY loud awful noises will erupt. I recently worked on one where they ignored the noises, kept pushing it and the shaft with the 2 support and thrust bearings actually welded themselves together. Have actually never seen one more destroyed.
The above set shows the exterior (sorry I did not take any photos while this one was opened) but, the cylinder with the cable tie on it is the actual motor. Very compact and very quiet. In front of it you see there are actually 2 gear boxes. The first being a reduction planetary set, the next a 90 deg similar to say your car's differential. Both gear boxes are fully sealed (so I can use the best lubes for the job with no food issues), and also both are WAY more robust than necessary so. literally the motor will go into a self shutoff mode (thanks to thermal breaker) LONG before it can damage the gear box. Unlike the other where the motor is WAY more powerful than the gear box so by the time you've gotten it hot enough to go into a thermal protection the gear system is pretty well damaged. Again these are not meant to be a "how to" in any way. Simply educational on the differences.