Leg Socket and J B Weld


 
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Michael Berry

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I broke down yesterday and bought another Kettle. I've been doing good for a while...I think this is my 14th. Anyway it's an older redhead, probably from the 70's. No date code, Bar-b-q-kettle, Arlington Heights, Ill and pat#3538906 on the top vent. There are no thumb screws in the leg sockets. Looked to be in good shape, a few places on top and bottom with porcelain damage. The top handle is bent but the wood is in great shape. When I got it home I noticed the big problem. One of the leg sockets was barely hanging on. There is still metal underneath, just looks like the welds came loose. So, I sanded all the spots down and used JB weld this morning to put it back together. Has anyone tried this before? How were the results? I should have asked y'all first. Maybe there is a better way to fix it....like getting it welded back on for real. Don't know if the JB can stand the heat down there.

Paid $40 in a moment of weakness but if I can get her standing, I know she'll turn out good meals for a long time.
 
How about a regular flux or MIG weld? You could sand/strip to the bare metal, weld, grind/Dremel as needed, then touch up the repair with Hi-temp red caliper paint.
 
If the metal is still sound, how about a couple small self tapping screws or nuts and bolts?

Tim
 
yeah...I think a real weld would have been the best thing...I used the Jb because I'm cheap and it was in the tool box staring at me. I guess if it doesnt hold up I can sand it off and start over. I know a couple of friends that can weld. One works in a body shop. I wonder if there is something that can be used to fill in the places where the enamel chipped off, sand it down smooth and repaint with high heat paint. I doubt bondo would hold up to the heat. Not real worried about the chips, they add character, but was just curious.
 
If your friends have a TIG unit (and likely one of them does) they could easily do a "puddle weld" in the low spots as a filler. It can/should be built up slightly higher than the surrounding surface, then carefully sanded down to match the profile.

Then you could hit it with Hi-temp Caliper paint. I recommend caliper paint because it comes in gloss finish, which better blends with the finish of the porcelain coating, it's inexpensive and generally has higher temp tolerance than engine paint.

Stove and header paint usually come in flat finishes and have to be fired to "cure".
 
I agree with Tim, a nut&bolt with washers will do it. You will never see them, but paint them if you feel the need. I have done it several times to save an oldie and it works great. If your cheap, this is the cheapest most sturdy reliable fix there is.
 
I keep JB weld in my truck! It's kinda like duct tape.
Regular JB weld is good to at least 700F, JB quick only to 300F.
I've repaired my Horizonal firebox with JB & worked fine.
Clean down to bare metal & it forms a great bond.
 
I had a real old kettle with the thumb screws. The posts were coming loose. I ended up using stainless nuts and bolts. People keep saying to use a self tapping screw but there isn't much meat for a self tapper, plus you can easily strip a self tapper when there isn't too much to tap into. So I thought a nut and bolt was a better idea. I just used a #6 stainless machine screw with a washer and lock washer. I never have to worry about anything at that point. As far as welding I'm not sure how well you can weld that porcelein coating. You prob have to grind off the coating then it's bare metal that can rust. I'm not sure welding is the way. Thats just my thought.

Brian
 
Originally posted by Brian O'Neal: People keep saying to use a self tapping screw but there isn't much meat for a self tapper, plus you can easily strip a self tapper when there isn't too much to tap into.

Hmm, not really. If you ever worked with metal studs than that's the only way to fasten em.

The 16-18 gauge MS is prolly close to the thickness on a kettle and that's the norm for Ext Brng walls and some roof trusses and self tappers hold up just fine.

I guess it's possible to strip em, but that's never happened to me, and that's after installing thousands of the little buggers with an impact driver.

But hey, whatever works right..
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Tim
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I hear ya, I have used quite a few assembling metal studs myself. On my personal grills the leg sockets that are loose or in bad shape is generally because they are rusty. I tried a self tapper on one grill but the bond wasn't great because of the weakened rusty metal. Then I don't know if it was because it was always being moved around or getting hot my screws just got a little loose so I replaced them with the nuts and bolts. I suppose metal studs don't get the same kind of heat or moving around or rust for that matter. Self tappers would be easier thats for sure.

Brian
 
Yep. That's why I mentioned as long as the metal is still sound than a self tapper will work.
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But I would agree that heat does loosen up fasteners, and the most positive connection besides a spot weld would be a nut and bolt and lock washer!

Tim
 
yeah...500 degrees.....It gets way hotter than that down there. Wonder if I could custom fit some heat shielding type of material into the bottom of the bowl over where the welds are but leaving the 3 wheel vents unobstructed? Do they make it thin enough to work with..cut, shape, form?

Anyway...I've already JB'ed it and will put it to the test this evening. I'll try to post some pics if I can remember how.

Thanks to all of you for the responses....
 
I think the JB Weld will hold. Just let it cure for a while before using the grill.
That stuff gets hard as a rock.
I don;t think it will fail unless you put a torch directly on it.
 
I used JB weld to fill a small hole near a leg on my old stainless performer. It stayed there for a few months but eventually it burned out again. I think it just gets too hot for it to be a long term fix.

Mine was in a spot where hot coals were definitely falling on it - it was right under the gas starter. That's probably why the hole developed in the first place. Maybe if it's not getting direct coals it'll be ok but mine wasn't. Luckily that hole is underneath the ash catcher so it's not really hurting anything - it just bothers me.
 
I also have to believe that eating food with oxidized 'JB Weld' burn residue might actually be toxic.


I'd stick to stainless steel nuts and machine screws.
 
I would NOT rely on JB Weld to hold the leg on. You are risking serious injury or a major fire if it fails and the leg falls off. Think of hot coals spilling everywhere.

Definately not worth the risk.
 
I agree with you Mike. I hadn't thought of that but it would be a pretty big disaster if hot coals spilled out all over your deck or in your yard, or God forbid your feet, or your kid or dog. Just go get some nuts and bolts and be done with it, not worth the risk. You'll never see the bolts anyhow, it's on the bottom, they are small. You don't need huge ones, as I said a #6 if fine.

Oh and Michael is that your Basset Hound in the background?

Brian
 
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